OldRedMack
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Everything posted by OldRedMack
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S400 Turbo too big for 1991 E7-350????
OldRedMack replied to BucketTrucker688's topic in Engine and Transmission
If it is a good deal, I would buy it and put it on. -
Yes, but it is not cheap. Last time I looked into it, it was going to be around $25k to do it.
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Noisy PTO rattle with MP8's and Allison Auto
OldRedMack replied to Deere Mack's topic in Engine and Transmission
I would compare going to the air control over cable is like going from mechanical to electric controls on a loader. Which would mean that a little bit of movement on the stick goes a long way. Just remind yourself that it is completely different and you will get use to it pretty quickly. Even though I don't like the air controls, if my truck rattled like what you describe then I would swap it out also. -
Noisy PTO rattle with MP8's and Allison Auto
OldRedMack replied to Deere Mack's topic in Engine and Transmission
Ok, mine is the t310mlr. So definitely apples to oranges, but I have noticed a new rattle sound in my truck and never thought about the cable. I will have to check that out. -
Noisy PTO rattle with MP8's and Allison Auto
OldRedMack replied to Deere Mack's topic in Engine and Transmission
Is the cable for engaging the PTO, or running the pump/hoist up and down. I myself hate the air operated hoist, and took it off my truck and replaced with the cable. The air operated hoist doesn't have the same level of control/feathering in my experience. But the air operated pto is the way to go. -
Water pump, exhaust leak, air filter, water filter.
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The fan and a/c are tied together. I have the viscous fan and did everything I could to work around it and nothing worked until I replaced the viscous fan clutch.
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I found my intake leak with a homemade pressure tester. 3inch PVC with a 3inch PVC cap. Drill a hole in the cap, use a Male and female air fitting- where as the Male and female are the ends that thread into/onto an airtool. Then just use a pressure regulator in-line between the air source and the pressure tester. You only need a couple psi of air to find the leak, you may have to bump the engine over to close your valaves.
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We have a 94rd with 44k camelbacks that had a lot of play like your describing, but no real loud clunk. Ended up being the axles, we never broke an axle but after 20 years of use the axle splines were almost wore off. Put new axles in it and the play was gone. Also on the same truck, which thinking now probably more mirrors your situation. Was the power divider, if the tires on the drive axles ever got more than 3/8 of an inch out of size from the front drive to the rear drive it would clunk. Had the power divider rebuilt and it took care of that problem.
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370, I only went up 1 size to the 427/460 injectors. But that is a hard question to answer, because at the same time I upgraded the turbo and exhaust manifold. Overall I am very happy with what I have done.
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Just went thru this last year, search for the posting "2007 AMI 370". The truck runs away from our c-13 powered pete.
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Pressure test the intake, maybe a blown intake manifold gasket.
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No codes came up at all, had to start the truck and leave it running, then loosen the injector lines individually. There should be a definite change in the way it is running when you open the lines that are at full strength, and probably no change when you get to the one that is bad. And I would also suggest that when/if you find 1 that is bad to just replace it. Do not try and swap it out with 1 that is working correctly to make sure that it is bad. I attempted that and snapped the screw that holds the wires on and had to replace 2 eups, at $500.00 a piece.
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We have a 94 rd that would do this, I'm not good at remembering the actual part name. But there is an air valve behind the dash that will go bad, swap it out and fired right up.
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Could be an eup, my engine ran smooth before I went up a size in injectors. As soon as I fired it up after injector swap it was a ruff idle, turned out number 6 eup was weak.
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The truck runs great now, it is actually fun to drive. It spools up fast and if your on boost when you hit a hill you won' even notice that you had to climb. Only thing left to do now is get rid of the t310mlr and get a fuller 8ll with some better gear ratios in the tranny.
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We have had this problem on several trucks, and it is usually a simple fix. There is a brass washer on the gearshifter, I believe on top of the spring. Pull the shifter out, replace the washer, and put it back together. We have a 94 rd that we have done that to about 4 times and have never had the transmission out of the truck.
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- 8ll
- roadranger
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New injectors, new turbo, and new tune from mack.
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Also i forgot to add that Mike at K&S was very great to talk to and deal with.
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Alright, after six new injectors from k&s, we went to the 427/460 nozzle and holders. 2 new eups, number 6 was acting up and I snapped the screws off of number 1 trying to swap them out to see if there was a difference. And a k&n air filter, I have a smooth running truck putting out 44psi of boost, with no smoke running empty. I have not put a load on it yet since getting it all done today. Fun thing is that I never had an eup code or a skip/miss until I put the new injectors in.
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Time for another update. I got the intake gasket changed, boost and pyro installed. It's running a lot quieter, I've had boost up to 40psi, and pyro is usually 600-700 but has gone up to 1k on hard pull. Running a lot better but feels like there is still more to give, so I ordered a set of injectors from K&S. Hopefully I will have them by the weekend and see what she runs like then.
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Well I have had the truck working for about a week after the new program and updates to the pedal. And the truck still seems off to me, so I decide to pressure check the intake myself today. Keep in mind that Macks own dyno procedures say that they are supposed to pressure check the fuel and Intake, which they apparently did not! Because today when I checked it, the number 4 cylinder on the intake manifold gasket is leaking as fast as you can put air in. So I'm getting it fixed tomorrow and can't wait to see what the truck does with full boost. I wish I would have done that first like yall said, and I'm thoroughly disappointed that mack did not.
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After a full day of working the truck, it is way better than before. The throttle has a little lag to it, but the throttle is a lot smoother than before and when the lag is out of the pedal it has full power at all rpm range. I just got back from running after a load of sand and the hills I would have to drop 2-3 gears for I now only have to drop 1 gear. And the back roads that I would have to run in 7th gear to keep the speed low and still have power for the hills I can now run in 8th turning low rpm. Overall I am very happy, but I feel like she has more potential with injectors and a better flowing exhaust. So I guess, to be continued.
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003933 ct 713
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I know the pedal was calibrated, but they didn't tell me if they went to the 12b or not. I have to go back because my engine oil temp sensor got turned off and I'll make sure it is moved to the 12b then. Looking back I forgot to mention that it has the mack t310 ten speed, not sure if that makes a difference.
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