OldRedMack

I would compare going to the air control over cable is like going from mechanical to electric controls on a loader. Which would mean that a little bit of movement on the stick goes a long way. Just remind yourself that it is completely different and you will get use to it pretty quickly. Even though I don't like the air controls, if my truck rattled like what you describe then I would swap it out also.

Ok, mine is the t310mlr. So definitely apples to oranges, but I have noticed a new rattle sound in my truck and never thought about the cable. I will have to check that out.

Is the cable for engaging the PTO, or running the pump/hoist up and down. I myself hate the air operated hoist, and took it off my truck and replaced with the cable. The air operated hoist doesn't have the same level of control/feathering in my experience. But the air operated pto is the way to go.

Water pump, exhaust leak, air filter, water filter.

The fan and a/c are tied together. I have the viscous fan and did everything I could to work around it and nothing worked until I replaced the viscous fan clutch.

I found my intake leak with a homemade pressure tester. 3inch PVC with a 3inch PVC cap. Drill a hole in the cap, use a Male and female air fitting- where as the Male and female are the ends that thread into/onto an airtool. Then just use a pressure regulator in-line between the air source and the pressure tester. You only need a couple psi of air to find the leak, you may have to bump the engine over to close your valaves.

We have a 94rd with 44k camelbacks that had a lot of play like your describing, but no real loud clunk. Ended up being the axles, we never broke an axle but after 20 years of use the axle splines were almost wore off. Put new axles in it and the play was gone. Also on the same truck, which thinking now probably more mirrors your situation. Was the power divider, if the tires on the drive axles ever got more than 3/8 of an inch out of size from the front drive to the rear drive it would clunk. Had the power divider rebuilt and it took care of that problem.

370, I only went up 1 size to the 427/460 injectors. But that is a hard question to answer, because at the same time I upgraded the turbo and exhaust manifold. Overall I am very happy with what I have done.

Just went thru this last year, search for the posting "2007 AMI 370". The truck runs away from our c-13 powered pete.

Pressure test the intake, maybe a blown intake manifold gasket.

No codes came up at all, had to start the truck and leave it running, then loosen the injector lines individually. There should be a definite change in the way it is running when you open the lines that are at full strength, and probably no change when you get to the one that is bad. And I would also suggest that when/if you find 1 that is bad to just replace it. Do not try and swap it out with 1 that is working correctly to make sure that it is bad. I attempted that and snapped the screw that holds the wires on and had to replace 2 eups, at $500.00 a piece.

We have a 94 rd that would do this, I'm not good at remembering the actual part name. But there is an air valve behind the dash that will go bad, swap it out and fired right up.

Could be an eup, my engine ran smooth before I went up a size in injectors. As soon as I fired it up after injector swap it was a ruff idle, turned out number 6 eup was weak.

The truck runs great now, it is actually fun to drive. It spools up fast and if your on boost when you hit a hill you won' even notice that you had to climb. Only thing left to do now is get rid of the t310mlr and get a fuller 8ll with some better gear ratios in the tranny.

We have had this problem on several trucks, and it is usually a simple fix. There is a brass washer on the gearshifter, I believe on top of the spring. Pull the shifter out, replace the washer, and put it back together. We have a 94 rd that we have done that to about 4 times and have never had the transmission out of the truck.