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Under  truck greasing what needs done I noticed that my pinion seal is wet.  Question is is replacing the seal pretty much straight forward as in with light trucks? Anything I should be aware of being I have never done a heavy truck pinion seal? 1979 Mack and I do believe it is the single reduction differential. Pretty sure I don't have a socket big enough so, off hand does anybody know the size needed I would need to purchase? Per factory shop manual looks like nut torque is 600-900 ft lbs.  Only reference to gear oil is "GO-F-90". An online search for that number shows it being 75W-90. Is this correct?

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How about a picture of the input shaft and the seal housing. I bet this is easy..  back then Synthetic was not used. Seems to me there was a 90 W mineral based oil.  I bet 80W90 oil would be just fine.  I also bet the seal can be popped out if it has a flange, or removed by puttin a sharp screw into the metal part of the seal and using a claw hammer or the like to pull the seal. Are you familiar with that method ? 

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8 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

How about a picture of the input shaft and the seal housing. I bet this is easy..  back then Synthetic was not used. Seems to me there was a 90 W mineral based oil.  I bet 80W90 oil would be just fine.  I also bet the seal can be popped out if it has a flange, or removed by puttin a sharp screw into the metal part of the seal and using a claw hammer or the like to pull the seal. Are you familiar with that method ? 

not with the truck right now for a pic. I am familiar with that method of removing the seal. Just trying to get all my ducks in a row for when I do this job being when I have the truck at the shop I don't have my personal vehicle available whereas truck is staged at a different location for work

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11 minutes ago, RS Disposal said:

I am more of a light truck/automotive mechanic. Getting my feet wet with heavy truck maintenance and repair

Yeah, same here pretty familiar with auto  repair I usually have to get advice from here myself

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Ok. Well as far as the seal housing goes, it should be easy to remove, the gasket is likley avaible, but you can cut one out of gasket paper, . Once you get the yoke out you will see if you need to do more.

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If he does use an air gun to remove or install the pinion bolt/nut, he needs to have the yoke held tight so that it does not hammer back and forth with the rythm of the air gun, otherwise he will risk damage to a gear or bearing. The intense backlash of an air gun can do harm...  and his final torque needs to be done with a torque wrench if possible..  

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Yes, I was thinking the very same thing about trying to do it with a big hand socket bar. That’s why I suggested air but yes. I guess in both cases you have to hold the yolk real tight with something getting somebody in there to give him a hand might not be a bad idea. I don’t even know if an inch drive air wrench will take out 600 pounds torque.

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