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I’m having a coolant issue on my 1985 Mack r with a em6-300. VIN is 1M1N179YXFA099577

I have flushed the coolant system at least 8 times with cascade powder. It was finally running out clear when I drained it so I put my new thermostat in, new water filter, and filled the radiator with the red coolant and distilled water at around a 55/45 ratio. 
 

It was holding temp at 180* with a few test runs I made but I was hauling gravel today and it got up to 230+. I wasn’t concerned at first thinking it might be a faulty gauge or sensor, but it started puking water out of the radiator cap.
 

I parked it and let it idle but it still never came back down below 220. 
 

The fan feels like it’s pulling a good amount of air through the radiator. So I’m led to believe it may be the water pump. Has anyone else had any similar issues? 
 

thanks. 

Edited by Jizzo17
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  • Jizzo17 changed the title to Em6-300 water temp 230+
13 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Cavitation in the water pump housing. ??

How would I check for this? I may end up ordering a new water pump and slapping it on regardless. Would a new fan clutch be recommended as well?

On 10/2/2025 at 11:29 AM, Geoff Weeks said:

More likely to be plugged tubes in the radiator, with a history of 8 flushes to get the clear water. 

I was afraid it might be the radiator. The old pump has a date stamped ‘86 on it but was not pitted and turned fairly easy when  separated from the fan clutch. The fan clutch itself still had resistance. I have the radiator detached to the point where I was able to lean it forwards and pull the pump and fan out as one unit. So a few more hoses to unhook and I can lift the Rad out. 
 

Being as the pump was original I would bet the radiator is also original to this truck lol

 

i am getting coolant flowing throughout the cooling system. Would plugged tubes still allow that?

Edited by Jizzo17
2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Oil cooler...

 

3 hours ago, D-Day said:

It sounds like you are describing the oil cooler

Thanks. I thought so. Would it be possible for it to be plugged as well?

It is possible I have found gobs of silicone and rust chunks blocking the cooling tubes but that should not affect the coolant temperature overall but would affect the oil temperature more if it was severely blocked it could restrict the overall flow of the cooling system slightly

  • Like 1

Did you pressure test it before taking the end caps off ?  Do you have new gaskets for it ? 

I have to ask.... Are you familiar with this oil cooler?  

13 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Did you pressure test it before taking the end caps off ?  Do you have new gaskets for it ? 

I have to ask.... Are you familiar with this oil cooler?  

I just took the forward facing end cap off. It’s the one that bolts to the water pump. The system will pressurize because it will blow the cap off the radiator if you remove it when it’s hot.

i don’t have new gaskets but I can cut some out or get my Mack dealer to order some.  
 

I bought this truck from a lumber yard with 560k+ miles. I added the plus because the odometer stopped working at some point and there’s no telling when that happened. So I’ve become increasingly familiar with this truck the longer I’ve owned and operated it. But this is my first time with this type of oil cooler. 

Edited by Jizzo17
  • Like 1

Pm me your address and i will send you a set of orings and gaskets.  I have a few. The oring set has 2 different sizes and is hard to see, you have to stack them to see the small difference. 

yes to removing the cooler. however, you already broke a gasket seal, so it would need to be put back together tightly and sealed.  I can take a picture of my test tools. 

  • Like 1

it is pressure tested at 80 PSI.. here is my home made kit that works. you will cut your own gaskets..

AP1GczM1yt--Oj5aNuGeKtM0ddwZbphWdY55fgy_AM1zJWcS7EPgCGVXwoU7sMUYJC70KCocGFcbM7kh0-sIs15GXWp4iy8C8M248wEoZ6mx_wgHF3EOtxZV0RQ4ETItZaS6m5fH_vHxJFE2LVVGj0u7Xacv1A=w489-h869-s-no-gm?authuser=0

Edited by Joey Mack
spelloing
  • Like 1

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