Angelo Posted October 9, 2023 Author Share Posted October 9, 2023 The rectifier was bad but now changed out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted October 9, 2023 Share Posted October 9, 2023 Can you get a picture of what you replaced it with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted October 9, 2023 Share Posted October 9, 2023 So damaged the rectifier then ? It clearly was damaged as a result of something that is still going wrong Don't want to damage the new rectifier or regulator Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted October 10, 2023 Share Posted October 10, 2023 As we go back to the 1st page on this, there still are questions asked but not answered. There are a total of 6 connections on the voltage regulator he took a picture of. As far as I know, the connection at the top has never been identified. The system is not a complex one, but if the O/P is not able to trace out where stuff is hooked to, where the wires go and what voltage they carry, I can not help from this end. If I were there, it would be a different story. As I have said, I have a very similar set up myself. It is not identical esp in the regulator. The field on these is isolated, you can ground one side and regulate the other to hold the voltage, or you can feed hot to one side and regulate the ground to hold voltage. Either way will work, and everything else is a secondary problem (like the relay connecting the output to the rest of the electrical system). IF voltage regulation is the problem, it is limited to the connections that make up the field circuit. If the O/P is unable to answer the questions or doesn't understand them, can't or will not trace wires, then the answer is obvious, replace with a single wire alternator and get on with your life. If you want to keep it period correct, you are going to have to do the things above that I mentioned. I can not from this end of a key board. These are simple systems, but they do require a bit of knowledge of electrical systems. I am not being harsh, but if you don't know, you either need someone on your end to teach or you need to move to something that is even more simple like a one wire system. Unlike a generator, where it needs to be polarized and have the current regulated, alternators are simple devices. We have no idea what he used to replace the rectifier, if it is 1/2 wave or full wave, of how it is connected, what its rating is for PIV or current. I was hoping a picture might indicate what he has, but so far no picture. Until there is more info, more cooperation I can't be of more help, and am going to leave this thread be. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted October 11, 2023 Share Posted October 11, 2023 On 10/1/2023 at 8:43 PM, Angelo said: It has a Leece Neville generator. Regulater has on left side it says from top to bottom 4 posts Ign G Gen F on right side it has B post all is Hooked the same way old one was. I had many miles on it problem free until this issue Looks like the terminal at the top may be 2 terminals, with a fuseable link between them. Hard to tell for sure, I am trying to find others on the .net to compare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireSKip17 Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 I have mine all pulled and mapped out. I'll share Saturday next time I'm messing with it how these fire engines are wiring with the rectifiers. I am looking to swap the system out to a 1 wire alternator tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireSKip17 Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 Here's how ours was setup with 12v positive ground: -Battery Selector switch to "B" on voltage regulator. -Left Ignition Switch to "IGN" on voltage regulator. -"G" on voltage regulator to "NEG" on rectifier. -"GND" on voltage regulator to "POS" on rectifier. -"F" on voltage regulator to rear field post of Alternator. -the top post of the voltage regulator grounds to the mount/firewall. -the 3 larger posts on the alternator (phases??) went to the long 3 bars on the rectifier, they are marked "AC" on mine. - the other rear alternator post, I assume another field, goes to the "POS" on the rectifier. I'd love to get rid of all this and go single wire alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 I see the rectifier was replaced with modern diode unit. That is good. I would leave it alone, if it is working for you. Only draw back is the space it takes up. To switch to a "modern" one wire, it would either have to be case neutral or positive ground unit. OR you have switch the polarity to neg ground, which would open up the opportunity for more accessories that are neg ground only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireSKip17 Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 (edited) We had multiple wires frayed, currently re-wiring the truck. The Amp meters both always read 0. Drove it an hour tho and it didn't die, so maybe it works. So can't truly confirm it's function. The one bar marked AC is heavily blued tho. Wouldn't want to switch the grounds around tho bc the radio and siren are specifically 12v POS. Edited December 29, 2023 by FireSKip17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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