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4v vs 2v interchangeability


Macktruckman

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17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I worked on an E-6 2 Valve for a customer, today..  Here is some part numbers for you.  I dont know if you need this info, but I will post this and other parts as I work on this 2 Valve.. 

 

P.S.  I can sub-out my helper if you need some help. She (my wife) has helped me build somewhere near 10 engines..  

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Slave driver! 🤣

  • Haha 1
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8 hours ago, Macktruckman said:

It wears many hats. Lol

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Just my opinion but I would stick with the E6 ! the front mount will be an issue for you as the E6 is trunnion mounted ! the E7 is stickly  a bolt on set up! If you can find a 4V E6 you would be better off! I'm not sure if the front covers are inter changeable!

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Thank you guys! That 4 valve looks like a little different front mount than mine but it appears to bolt on identical to the crossmember. I’d like to know if I would see a noticeable increase in performance with a 4 valve over mine. As I do have access to a 4v E6. As far as making a mount for the E7 to work that’s doable for us too. Little fab work is no problem. Have piles of scrap metal and welders and cutters and access to mills and lathe and I’m one of the most fortunate people I know to have brothers that are absolute craftsmen and engineers. Lol. I’ve done a lot to this old thing the past few years with information and knowledge I gathered from you guys on this site and the talent and materials I have access to here. And it’s not lost on me I appreciate it all

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Looked over the 4v E6 in the spare truck. 1988 year. Was EM6-250. Mack turned it to a 300 many years ago and stamped the engine plate 300. Looks very similar in most ways to my 2v. It definitely has a different injection pump than mine. The 4v pump has a sloped back or governor housing 

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Well the 4 valve engine is no longer an option. Friend of mine owns it and he’s decided to keep it. So I’m hunting an engine. Should have the parts to patch mine together and at least get it out of his shop. Maybe I can make a few bucks with it while I find something else to put in it. 
Out of pure curiosity are the frames wider or anything on the superliner to allow the E9 to fit or would an E9 theoretically fit in a R685?? 

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Where I live there’s not a whole lot of Mack’s. I saw an E9 in a superliner one time years ago and I sure did fall in love with that thing but I’ve only seen the one in person. 
a long time ago when I was a kid there was a local milk hauler that bought parts in my dads parts store and he had a superliner but it was a 8V92. 

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I respect all of what you say, and the Nostalgia is Great!!..  If you buy an E-9...  put it in your toy truck. and take it to shows and parades..  In the money maker..  ''6 In a Row Makes it Go!!''   I learned that phrase 2 years ago, when I picked up a Super liner 4 hours away and drove it to my customer..  He bought it, I was the picker/upper guy..  

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If I had more time I could fix mine, but it was supposed to have a quick head gasket change and be out of his shop in a couple days. I’m pretty sure the counter bores need cut so I talked to the machine shop that is local (well 50 miles away, there’s nothing near me) anyway they are a month out. At the moment it’s gotta run soon and I figured I would find something to put in or even overhaul and have ready to swap out over a weekend. My plans seldom just work out. Lol. 

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its a dry liner engine, so why do you have to cut the counter bores?  theres no coolant to keep secured. if the issue is liner height, did they measure the protrusion? if it is low, you can buy shims..   Heck, i forgot...  is the liner pulled? 

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It had a broken liner. I pulled it.  My mechanic friends there set up a dial indicator on the deck and the counter bore is not the same depth all the way around. They say that’s why the liner broke. They figure the new liner will crack like the old one sooner than later. Because it’s a dry liner it doesn’t put compression in the coolant. It dumps it in the crankcase. I personally do not know much about big diesels. But I have a good understanding of mechanics, and went to vocational school, loved hotrodding growing up and dad had a parts store and a truck and backhoe. But the two guys helping me I trust 100%. They are used to later model stuff though not antique Mack’s. Lol

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which cylinder?  That is a correct way to measure.  Did they straight edge the whole deck to look for warpage?  was the deck totaly clean of debris when the depth mic was used?  Im not trying to be a D-Bag..  Just asking Q's.. 

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I see head bolts and not studs..  so the info on studs, I posted earlier does not apply to this engine.. 

 

I would be using a bore mic to check the diameter of the bore.  do you have a good liner to put in the hole to check fitment?  i beleive it is a .002'' crush on fitment..  

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Oh no problem at all. I’m easy going. Lol. And I’m the one asking opinions and such. I appreciate everything. For the sake of clarity I didn’t pull any other liners as this is the only one I found broke. The block deck was cleaned up pretty well with steel wool and cleaner. So they straight edged the deck beside the liners but not over the center. So when the set up the dial indicator tool it was on a clean surface. The counter bore on the left or driver side of the block is approximately 0.004”-0.005” lower or deeper than the right or opposite side. Liner broke in number 4 hole. The front head gasket on number two was blown 

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.001'' difference?  i dont see an issue... i really wish some E-6 guys will chime in.. on the E-7's I build, there is a .002'' allowable varience between adjacent cylinders, ( 1-3 + 4-6)..  Based on this post, I dont see an issue that needs a counter bore cut.. 

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