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Need to replace "Krusty"


Rob
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2 minutes ago, h67st said:

Looks to be in good shape for 189k. From past experience, if someone takes good care of the body and interior, then that bodes well for maintenance also.

Hi Carl;

Yes, I agree. It has 5th wheel rails but no gooseneck ball so probably a camper toter all it's life. These engines were "hit and miss" but keeping things maintained was paramount. The basic engine is very sound but the ancillary items tacked on by Ford could be problematic.

No rust I could see at all which was a surprise. No dealership "coverup" either such as wheel arch flares, spray in bedliner, contrasting color on the rockers, etc..... Obviously not from Illinois, or Ohio.....

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I was talking to a guy the other day that had one of the Dodge "Eco Diesel" pickups. He never changed the fuel filter and it turns out the top end or something is lubricated with fuel; the filter got plugged and resulting lack of fuel damaged the engine bad enough that it had to be replaced. Good reminder that maintenance is important!

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2 wheel drive, or 4 wheel drive? 

the 6.0 is a very good engine if maintained and not hot rodded. 

pay attention to it, and it will last damn near forever. 

a very good place for ford diesels is https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php

when you are up to your armpits in alligators,

it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp..

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This one is 4X4. Old "Krusty" was 2WD and I'll not have another dually pickup that is not 4X4.

I agree the engine is of sound design but I've seen dozens with oil, and EGR cooler problems over the years and these if let go can cause catastophic failure. Only in Ford products however; never International so has to be something with the Ford emissions design features.

These of course only my observations and in no way protrayed as fact as I'm not an expert.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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the problem with the oil and egr coolers is they start leaking and the drivers ignore it. until it fails. 

if maintained properly they last damn near forever.

only thing i do not like on that rig is the ESOF or as i call it "soccer mom" 4X4. they are problematic. i prefer manual shift 4X4

when you are up to your armpits in alligators,

it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp..

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Agree but it does have manual hubs. Those vacuum shift servo cylinders if not exercised routinely were often frozen in place when needed. Used to change a bunch of them along with automatic hub assemblies. GM favored the electric shift ones and they were trouble also; but only when it was needed.....

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I'm anxious for them to give me the okay to come back over so I can get a floor jack under the suspension points, check for hot start oil bleedoff in the injection system, sluggish ramp for the turbocharger, and "whistle" from cracked up pipes in the exhaust. This of course with the degas tank for leakage and "froth" to the cooling system.

Nice looking truck for sure although somewhat plain in appearance. I like it though as my usage is more work than trying to fit in amongst the masses.

Been driving my daughter's Toyota Corolla, (extra car) for almost a year since both "Krusty" and my 99 Durango shit the beds, (both rust related) till I could find a suitable replacement. $60K+ is not a reality for me in a pickup truck so in reality I've been slipping money back into my 57 B-61 as a replacement for "Krusty" and may just purchase a later model Jeep Grand Cherokee if this truck doesn't work out favorable. 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Go here and learn all about the 6.0.  Not as bad as people claim.  But, these guys have a lot of expertise, and can hook you up with some good parts that will remedy most of the issues a 6.0 can have.

https://bulletproofdiesel.com/pages/bullet-proof-your-ford-6-liter

They can do anything from a full delete, to an upgrade of the factory smog parts to keep it smog legal.  I know of several people who have fixed troublesome 6.0s with these guys' pieces, and they run like a champ now.  Know of a couple of guys who did the upgrades before they had any issues.

 

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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I would never ever delete anything on a 6.0 leave it stock and take care of it. We had 46 of them at the other job, all with over 500,000 miles on them. All also pure stock.

when you are up to your armpits in alligators,

it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp..

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I know several folks whom have  had excellent service from their 6.0 engines and with exception of one, they have all been stock. Also know another guy whom purchased a new "King Ranch" F-350 and couldn't keep it out of the shop and he was not any kind of abusive to the truck. That one was traded in on a Dodge before it was a year old.

This truck does appear to originate from San Antonio, TX and had quite a bit of dealer service work there too. Mostly routine, and recalls etc. No real indicators it was a problem unit although the EGR cooler was replaced, and turbocharger cleaned. I assume these two are related as soot buildup would be the cause. Nothing found relating to the oil cooler for the engine. Almost all of these items are listed under warranty repairs so cannot ascertain from the information if anything was done in the aftermarket, or in Illinois. Everything listed shows to be completed in Texas.

 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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egr cooler is good for around 80 to 100k miles. 

when they degrade they start seeping coolant into the EGR circuit, and it then gets sooted up. 

people either replace the EGR valve, or clean the cooler. but that is a bandaid. if the cooler is sooted, it is leaking and needs to be changed. 

unfortunately when you ignore the cause of the symptoms and do a "quick fix" eventually the cooler fails and then you are knee deep in a slop pond. 

and that slop pond is usually 500 miles from anywhere, so the tow bill is gonna be almost what the truck is worth. 

 i am not up on the 6.0 turbo other than sometimes the vanes will "stick" 

but like i said, i am not up on them so do not know what causes that. 

when you are up to your armpits in alligators,

it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp..

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This one is seemingly panning out to be an honest unit yielding good service to the prior owner. Unless something major falls out from the deal, I'll wind up with it.

Been reading a lot on the internet today about these engines and they really don't seem too bad at all; lot's of misdiagnosis seems to be a common trait. Given the way the coolant flow is through the engine oil cooler, followed by the EGR cooler, it makes sense to me to replace both rather than just the EGR cooler itself only. I've seen my fair share of bad water pumps over the years that don't leak externally also, so I'd think it best replaced when the system is opened up.

 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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