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Can you access the bull gear with out removing it?


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Was flushing out the housing and found a bolt not to terribly chewed up so hopefully nothing is damaged.  You can still see the treads and markings and nothing else is floating around in there so I stuck my inspection camera in and didn't see anything.

I was hoping to save some work by pulling the right side cover off and see if you could get access to the bull-gear bolts.

Anyone know???

MackCRD93Diff.png

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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I sold the rear out of my driving and running truck to a guy.    When he pulled it apart "I think" there was a broken piece of axle and a bolt laying in the bottom.   Of the housing.    Both where from a previous time as nothing was wrong with the current rear.   Who knows how long that stuff could be laying in there.    

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I flushed the rears in June and replaced all the fluids.  I would like to have thought it would have not been left in there? I spoke with a guy who rebuilds them and said that I shouldn't worry about it coming apart because the way Mack made it has like a gear in a gear.  My concern is if one fell out are the others ready to also? 

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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Update

this morning I tackled the job of pulling the differential.  It was the rear one and tight as it is on a dump truck.  After getting it removed I found all of the bullgear bolts loose.  After checking it out and installing new bolts I managed to get it dropped back in.  

I made a set of guide pins which really helped with getting it dropped in.  One of the hardest parts was pumping the oil.  I ran the truck in gear on jack stands for over 20 minutes.  Since I pulled the axles all of the oil was drained  from the hubs running with no load will allow the oil to splash back up into the  hubs.  Better than pulling the wheel. 

 

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Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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On 5/4/2017 at 11:21 PM, thomastractorsvc said:

Update

this morning I tackled the job of pulling the differential.  It was the rear one and tight as it is on a dump truck.  After getting it removed I found all of the bullgear bolts loose.  After checking it out and installing new bolts I managed to get it dropped back in.  

I made a set of guide pins which really helped with getting it dropped in.  One of the hardest parts was pumping the oil.  I ran the truck in gear on jack stands for over 20 minutes.  Since I pulled the axles all of the oil was drained  from the hubs running with no load will allow the oil to splash back up into the  hubs.  Better than pulling the wheel. 

 

When I pull hubs for a wheel seal fix I will sometimes pack the wheel bearings with a little chassis grease to keep them lubed till oil gets to them.    terry:D

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I do the same but I didn't pull the hubs just the axles.  I made set of guide pins I would recommend anyone doing this job to have them.  The rear is sealed with silicone and must be applied to both half's and once you place it on you don't want to move it or you will have leaks.  I bought the rebuild manual so ask away.

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Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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On 5/7/2017 at 4:43 AM, dickbuick said:

Comment on the hub oil

Packing the bearing with grease is always nice

I like to tilt the rear after filling it and let the oil run out to the hubs splashing out takes a long time sometimes to long

How are you supposed to get the silicone to set up if you have the oil leaking all over them?  the Mack service manual said to jack it up and let it run it was easy enough.  No leaks and been running all week.

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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