Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Energy Suspension list them as for the radiator but no real break down on size.

Maybe the listed pictures of each might give you a comparison.

http://www.energysuspensionxd.com/media1/2013%20HD%20Catalog_WEB_med.pdf

Yeah. That's the website I was looking at.

Had to change a $#@&$#@ flat tire this evening.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay. According to all my research, & even Mack, the cab mounts are as follows:

Upper - 20QL250

Lower - 20QL1144

Radiator - 20QL231P9

There are several aftermarket versions as well (PAI, BWP-NSI, Rubber, Urethane, blah-blah-blah). Not sure if any are better than the others. Opinions or experiences?

Also, is there an easy way to lift the cab and radiator enough to change the bushings without taking the thing completely apart?

The Mack-given radiator mounts appear to just go in from the top, & are 1-piece. The current ones look like there are 2 pieces. Maybe the bottom flares out when they're tightened? See first picture.

Think the cab mounts are due?!!! See other pictures.

post-11199-0-27096900-1405720620_thumb.j

post-11199-0-81577100-1405720718_thumb.j

post-11199-0-16631700-1405720767_thumb.j

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yup looks like the cab mounts are due. don't overtighten them when you put them back in. the bolt should be just tight enough so the bottom rubber bulges out like the one in your one picture. I think the radiators are one piece. cant remember now, been a while. the R models are a lot more forgiving. most B models I have worked on always had shims on one or all cab mounts to get the hood to fit the cowl right.

post-6-0-64947600-1408238925_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yup looks like the cab mounts are due. don't overtighten them when you put them back in. the bolt should the just tight enough both bottom rubber bulges out like the one in your picture. I think the radiators are one piece. cant remember now, been a while. the R models are a lot more forgiving. most B models I have worked on always had shims on one or all cab mounts to get the hood to fit the cowl right.

Yep. The manual gives a torque spec. But I think I like your suggestion better. The book also mentions shimming the cab as needed to align it with the hood.

Stuff should be here by the weekend. Hope to get a start on it at least.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 down, & 2 to go...

Left one literally took 10 minutes. Right one took an hour, because the sleeve in the old mount was stuck to the bolt. Had to cut the rubber off and grind the sleeve in two to get it off. After that, 10 minutes.

For lack of a better plan, I re-used the same flat washer count that came out of it.

Maybe I can do the rears this weekend.

Think I'll replace the bolts, too. That should be easy now that they're clean.

Oh, and the uppers were, indeed, 20QL250 and the lowers 20QL1144, just in case anybody else needs to do theirs.

These are actually the BWP-NSI parts (MA9R & MA9O, respectively), ordered through FinditParts, and shipped directly from BWP in Missouri. Good prices, quick delivery.

post-11199-0-47742100-1406245738_thumb.j

post-11199-0-29075100-1406245788_thumb.j

  • Like 1

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...