6368 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I picked up a used engine this weekend part of the intake manifold was broken from improper lifting. I have never seen mack with lifting eyes like other manufactureers. So are the best lifting points? I know its not the water pump (Have seen more than one ripped right off). I would make some brackets but where to bolt them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_martell Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Block / head would be mi guess, but I've only ever lifted car / pickup motors out.....500lbs versus 2000+lbs. 1 Quote Lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktech689 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 make your brackets up using the cylinder head bolts to hold them down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6368 Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share Posted June 1, 2014 Using the head bolts occured to me but i wasn't sure if i would be causing head gasket problems later on by loosening and retorqing them. are you saying this isn't an issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktech689 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Use as few bolts as possible, usually 2 close to each end of the engine and you won't have any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frictionman Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I am going to get a scolding from you guys but I will tell you how the shop I worked in and the trucking family trucking company that grew to 50 macks over 50 years lifted engines. We made a pair of plates that consisted of 3 holes each spaced to fit the valve cover bolts and a lifting bale welded on. I swear you would not think it to be enough but we picked hundreds of engines using 6 valve cover bolts with the covers still on and never hurt a single one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macktech689 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 More than 1 way to skin a cat. whatever works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmerrill0516 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I made a plate that fit over each end cylinder when the heads were off. I used a 1/2" plate and bolts long enough to get more than one diameter of the bolt in length engaged with the threads. I drilled and tapped for a lifting eye in the middle of each cylinder and used the eye to hook the chain hooks to. When you tighten the bolts up (4-5 each side) you preload the casting and the bolts for proper load bearing. The force is distributed accross a larger area and stresses the block less. I used the head gasket for a template for the locations of the bolts and the cylinder for the lifting eye location.I think this is the way to go for a host of reasons. The lifting eyes (the LOAD RATED rotating and swiveling type) keep the bolts in tension and don't side load the casting excessively. DO NOT use hardware store stuff. It has to be rated (I'd use 5000# per side minimum) and this has to be forged raised letters/numbers in the eye OR a tag indicating the rating (a permanent tag). Anything else is a crap shoot and you stand to break something big and expensive including yourself. This method provides an engineered type of attachment and will not slip or break. Save the plates as anything with a similar bolt pattern can use them. It's a few bucks to invest but you can make the stuff yourself if you have the equipment.I also back up the plate at the lifting eye with a nut to lock the threads and ensure it stays tight. Lose bolts do not develop full lifting strenght either.Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Like been stated us a chain with a braket welded to each end with a hole thru it and put it under two head bolts at the center of the engine. when in the center you use one chain and it will balance easy and you can tilt it with a comealong if need be very easy.I have used that for 40 years and never did have the nerve to try the little valve cover bolts.I have seen many engine pulled at salvage yards with the intake and exhaust manifold cracking or breaking it off.Same salvage yards that destroy drive lines when they pull apart.same salvage yards that destroy a clutch when they pull a trans out.Same salvage yards that remove a engine and set out side with intake open. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I am going to get a scolding from you guys but I will tell you how the shop I worked in and the trucking family trucking company that grew to 50 macks over 50 years lifted engines. We made a pair of plates that consisted of 3 holes each spaced to fit the valve cover bolts and a lifting bale welded on. I swear you would not think it to be enough but we picked hundreds of engines using 6 valve cover bolts with the covers still on and never hurt a single one.I have lifted many mack engines this way with no problems whatso ever. terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 The factory uses a flat strap around the oil pan with spacers on the sides to keep pressure off lines, hoses, etc. We use a flat strap in the front and a wire rope choker in the rear just in front of the clutch housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmerrill0516 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Lots of ways to get there for sure. I admittedly run conservative as I've worked in overhead lifting and tend to follow the rules which are intended to give you a factor of safety (read that overkill factor) of 5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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