dds92780 Posted December 22, 2012 Author Share Posted December 22, 2012 I'm really starting to think it is the harmonic balancer, its just that no one ever suggested that. I have a guy that works with me and he has a 01 427 and complained that he had a bad harmonic balancer and described it to me as just getting louder as the rpms went up and more vibration It was enough to make it annoying for him.. He said it helps keep it quiet. I don't have that problem i just have that shake as i was demonstrating and i think i almost have as much power as his 427. On that same pull in my video i asked him to track his speed and he got to 50 by a certain spot and i got to 48-49 and another guy with a Freightshaker 350 got 42 lol Quote Slow and Steady Wins the Race! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staxx Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 A heathy mechnical 350 has no problem running down a stock etec 427 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsb502 Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Sounds like a bad balancer or clutch out of balance to me, and a lack of oil on the top end should have been dealt with while you were in there. I'm with staxx on the rocker shaft oil issue, also e7's don't have real great oil volume up top to begin with and a 400k truck will definitely be weak, look for a pai high volume oil pump it helps the top end and as a side effect makes the Jake stronger. Quote "Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH" "You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dds92780 Posted December 22, 2012 Author Share Posted December 22, 2012 My truck doesn't have a jake brake and as far as the oil pressure goes it is normal. It goes close to 60 when being worked. 15-18 at idle when hot. The specs are to be 33-62 when working it on hot oil. I thought it seemed low when i first got the truck but others with Rd s have the same outcome. It's because mack got rid of the high volume pumps because people were going through oil bearings too fast. I'm not an expert though, but that is just what i was told. I am going to start it today and do a grease job (lucky me) i will start by looking at that balancer thing and also revving it with the clutch pushed all the way down. any other ideas would be great! Quote Slow and Steady Wins the Race! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 The balancer does what it sounds like it would,....it Balances the vibrations made fromthe rotationg mass of the motors moving parts.. Think of it as a counter weight to off set vibrations. Picture a 5 lb weight on a chain. Swing it around and you will find you are leaning backwards to off set the outward pull of the weight. The balancer is made from rubber and steel. Some may have liquid in them. As the engine turns each cyl fires off and sends a shock wave thru the crank and is absorbed by the balancer . A bad balancer may not be able to absorb the shock waves and thus you feel the vibration more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 If you can open the hood and hold it at the rpm with vibrations. Look at the engine to see if it's "jumping" if your rear mounts are bad it can cause the vibrating movement. And yea, 30lbs of boost is on the strong side. You should be able to keep up with a 427 untill the top 2 gears. Might be able to hold him all they way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsb502 Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Dont hold the clutch "all the way down" thats clutch brake territory just push it down to the stop easy then back off about 2 or 3 inches that keeps the clutch disengaged and you off the clutch brake. While your greasing make sure the grease tube is still attatched to the throwout bearing, it goes all the way to the top and screws in a 90 degree fitting, they come off and people just keep greasing the tube and then dont know why they have a vibration or noise when the clutch is depressed, its common in a Mack other brands grease at the bottom so they are easier to get to, people get lazy since it takes effort to check a Mack. Quote "Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH" "You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsb502 Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 Here is another video from today. It's just to show you i think the truck is making power, maybe you will hear the miss maybe you wont. That shake at that rpm band annoys me though, its only in the 3rd and 4th gear loaded is when its most noticeable. Give me your expert opinion if it seems like a good runner.I like mthe progressive shifting, not just throwing it to the floor till its wound out, that is the right way to drive a truck let the engine do what its supposed to, seems to be a good puller to me, reminds me of the old 95 tri-axle RD. Quote "Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH" "You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dds92780 Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 Thank you for the kind comments. This is me taking it to 1600 in the low gears and then around 6-7 gear i take it to 1700. I feel that's the best way to get good fuel ecomony. So i was at a party last night and there was a guy there that works for john deere and is really smart about deisels and trucks in general and i showed him my video and told him all the things i've done to the truck up until now, new injectors, pump rebuild, valve lash and bridges adjusted. he said it could be a motor mount just like you said, but there really isnt no way to tell, harmonic balancer he said usually when they go bad, they just go real bad they dont do what mine is doing but there is a chance. he said he would have the valves redone which is me having to pull the head off and it sounds like a lot of time and money, should do a camshaft while i am at it. Is there anyone that has actually done this and found a sticky valve, replaced valves and rockers and all that technical stuff and then problem fixed? What about a mack reman head? Has anyone done that? I see there are some pretty smart guys on here that seem to all have it in their interest to point me in the right direction Thank you for all your help so far guys! Quote Slow and Steady Wins the Race! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e9500v8 Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 I bought one set of Mack reman heads and hated them truck lost 5lbs of boost and never ran the same again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Did it vibrate before the new injectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dds92780 Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 yes it did , this is why i got the injectors and pump done assuming it would eliminate the problem. I used to notice the seat shaking at idle without me being in it. Now that i did the pump the seat doesnt shake and its a clean idle. I just can't put my finger on it. My dad thinks im nuts for wanting to spend more on it and i should just drive it. I agree with him , because it does pull just fine but im the type that wants it 100 percent fixed because i know something isnt right. yes it will make me money but ill always be thinking about it Quote Slow and Steady Wins the Race! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 I'm the same way! Sounds like a rotational vibration. Clutch,dampener,bad mounts, but almost every r model I drove had a slight vibration at some point of rpm or speed. Might be the nature if the beast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilburner Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 HECK IT COULD BE ANYTHING! It could be the tranny, ujoint, or a rearend to. I drove a superliner that had a vibration at between 50 and 55 and it was one that you could feel bad, and made a slight noise. One day while going to get a load i was makeing a hard right turn and the rear driveline cam out, it was a ujoint. after replaceing most of the vibration was gone. I also have herd of rear ends causeing this problem also, the vibrations will travel up througth the driveline and into the tranny. But likely not the tranny, because because i don't thank it would do it just sitting still maybe a clucth or pressure plate problem. when the tranny was going down in our international it had a vibration all the time after you got up about 40 and when you were at a speed that the truck was not pulling or holding back, kinda like everthing was runing together it wasn't pulling hard and you were not off the fuel just a good cruiseing speed, it would growl like the bearings were coming out. Hey good luck and let us know what you find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsb502 Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 From your video this problem exists stopped with the park brake on and running down the road, so that eliminates the driveline and axles, it could be a motor mount, balancer, clutch or a trans issue, if depressing the clutch(using the clutch brake to completely stop it then easing out just a hair to get off the brake) elimiates teh vibration its in the clutch/trans, if not it is in the balancer,mounts. I know that there are urethane motor mounts you can get from most parts places Mack included that last a lot longer but you get more engine vibration thru the chassis so I would replace the old ones with new rubber mounts to keep felt vibration down, look at the mounts there are two under the front of the engine and one on each side of the bellhousing if the rubber is worn out (cracked, dryrotted,pushed out) replace them, even if they arent worn out you can replace them all for about $100 so its good insurance in my mind. As far as a balncer goes if you go back and read a lot of the engine manufacturers recommended maintenance practices in detail most recommend replacing the damper and turning the flywheel every couple hundred thousand miles or few thousand hours, so again, is it really a bad thing to do if you swapped it and it didnt completely stop the vibration? Its definitely better to replace it than having the damper fail at work and ruining a main bearing or two before you get it fixed I dont see a need to goback thru the valves the way its running I didnt hear a tick at idle its making good power and boost and no smoke, and I definitely dont know why you would replace the heads and cam until they have issues again your running pretty good no ticking in the valvetrain, no pushing or mixing of coolant/oil, and no miss or low boost condition, excessive raw fuel smoke, so the valves are doing their job. If it was me Id check to make sure it wasnt the clutch/trans by running it with the clutch depressed if not Id replace the balancer and I would probably would have already replaced the motor mounts its a 95 model and rubber deteriorates I doubt you would run a dryrotted tire from 95 on there everyday so why continue to run old motor mounts when they are cheap and super easy to swap its literally a 2 hour job with 1 bottle jack you can do by yourself I have swapped em on every truck I have ever had but one and Staxx did that one at Mack while he was running the overhead for me. Just my two cents, I think you have a nice truck there, I wouldnt get into doing too much parts swapping trying to track down every little rattle before long you wont know where all your money went and you still have a 95 model not an 05. p.s. I would rock out those rear spokes I wouldnt swap em out they make it look hard core! Quote "Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH" "You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsb502 Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Just to prove my idea of the hardcore spoke wheels, I ran this 95 Rd instead of an 05 or 07 Granite every day, I let the new guys run the granite I like the old trucks better.. Quote "Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH" "You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turckster Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Chasing down vibrations can be a pain in the tush. The front dampener is a viscous type, any dings, dents or oil leakage and its time to replace it. If it looks ok, try removing the belts and running the engine. If the vibration is still there I would look at the clutch. Mark/index the clutch, unbolt the pressure plate and slide it back slightly. If the vibration disappears bolt the clutch back up but 180deg opposite of mark/index. If the vibration comes back after bolting the clutch up you may have to try different positions. These engines do have a vibration in that rpm, some worse than others. This is something that may never disappear.I don't recall the e-7 engines pushing alot of oil to the top end, as long as there is no excessive wear I'd run it till she falls apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomastractorsvc Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 My thoughts are like the others motor and trans mounts, then check the balancer. Pop the hood check the mounts than start it up and set the throttle to the vibration RPM and look at them, you may be able to see the broken mount if they look ok, check the balancer at both idle and at RPM to see if you can see any delection if you can mark the balancer with chalk or paint and use a flashing light it is easer to see the movement or a maglight at angle. Quote Robert"I reject your reality and substitute my own." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dds92780 Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 So there is no weird vibration that everyone is thinking. the video i posted looks like a bad shake because i am resting my hand and my other hand on the phone resting on the steering wheel. If anything shakes it will be noticed. I know there is a misfire to it. I just got back from work and let the truck idle at 1200 rpm where most of the shake could be noticed if you really analyzed it. i popped the hood , set the throttle control at 1200 waited 5 mins, then let it back down after a min.Here are my results starting with cylinder 6 first, 6 1585 1634 1643 1702 1631 135Bingo. so i know there is a misfire but what is it? I think its a stuck valve which might show why when we took the valve cover off a few months ago to do a valve adjustment and bridge work that it looked a lil dry. Compression in the cylinders should be okay. I am making plenty of power, i dont have blowby or even blow smoke nor can i smell any burning smoke. Sooooo experts, whats the next step? -Dustin- Quote Slow and Steady Wins the Race! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dds92780 Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 My dad was telling me it runs fine and he has driven plenty of r models ( says all of them had some sort of thing wrong with it and its normal lol) He also said if it makes me feel any better they usually make one more cylinder a little weaker than all the others to get better fuel economy??? i never heard of that before. But like i said, it pulls like a 427 Quote Slow and Steady Wins the Race! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomastractorsvc Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 maybe when you did the valve adjust it was not adjusted right or came out of spec Quote Robert"I reject your reality and substitute my own." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dds92780 Posted December 28, 2012 Author Share Posted December 28, 2012 No thats not the case . It's AT spec now and those cylinder temps were my results. Quote Slow and Steady Wins the Race! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e9500v8 Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 Start the truck cold as soon as you start it run around and start feeling the manifold at each cylinder and wich ever one gets hot first is where your problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vHIve016S5cI was out in my truck today. Here is what my 285hp pushes through 4th gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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