macattack Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 any tips on replacing the torque rod on my mack. its the one that goes between the rear axles. not the transverse.thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Couple wrenches and a 12 pack? Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatcity Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 Couple wrenches and a 12 pack? 12 pk? thats a ten minute job- 2 cans at bestAs long as the rears haven't rotated any, couple wrenches, tighten good.If they have rotated a little, a come-a long can help get them in position Quote Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 12 pk? thats a ten minute job- 2 cans at bestAs long as the rears haven't rotated any, couple wrenches, tighten good.If they have rotated a little, a come-a long can help get them in positionThey're racing @ Bristol tonight...so work only gets done during the commercials. 1 Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macattack Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 thanks. its the saddle type. got to grab the thesaurus and a 6 pack. think i may need some help, better get 12.thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macattack Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 would it be advisable to jack up the rears to do this? could i jack under the saddles. LOL. serious though?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 My .02You have to hold the housing still when you remove the bolts that hold the arm to the trunnion. If you don't some times the diff will spring back when all tension is removed. Then your fighting bolting up and locating the new arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macattack Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 what would be the best way in holding the housing still? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macattack Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 thanks gang. gonna replace both rods while i am there. the rubbers are definatly squishied out. replacing all bolts,nuts and washers. did not realize that where the 2 rods meet at the crossmember 2 longer bolts hold the 2 rods togeather. so to change just one did not really make sense so i am doing them both. let you know how the road test goes when my parts arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Do you have 58 rears,how much did the parts cost if you don't mind me asking,I'll be replacing mine soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macattack Posted September 6, 2012 Author Share Posted September 6, 2012 i believe 44 rears. the cost was 230.00 per rod plus 40 bucks for the bolts, nuts washers. no problems in replacing both rods. was a simple procedure. only had to cut one bolt out.so just under 500.00 total. this is in canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macattack Posted September 8, 2012 Author Share Posted September 8, 2012 ok. just found out the torque rod to the last axle is 4 inches shorter than the front rear axle. had to exchange one rod. now that i have the proper rods, i was wanting to know if i should jack up the rear before i retorque everything back down. just for alignment reasons? i was thinking of placing a jack under each trunnion saddle and raiseing the rear. what you thinkthanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biffidun Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Hi guys,1976 DM685S, Mack rear end (travelling axle type)I had my truck in for my annual safety and they say all I need is a new torque rod, torque rod assembly and seal. I have snugged up the assembly a couple of times over the last year, so it is possible that the mount holes are out of round.They want $744 for parts and $1200 for labor!! I have some mechanical ability so I was thinking I could tackle the job myself. Does $1200 seem extreme on the labor end of things? My rear is a travelling axle type (not camel back), so it just has rubber "hockey pucks" so how hard would it be to keep things aligned while the bushing is out??Any comments would be nice as I have to decide if I give them the go-ahead or not...-Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biffidun Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 OK I got clarification on the repair and the price includes quite a bit more little stuff so I am having them go ahead and do the work. Sorry for temporarily hijacking this thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsb502 Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 ok. just found out the torque rod to the last axle is 4 inches shorter than the front rear axle. had to exchange one rod.now that i have the proper rods, i was wanting to know if i should jack up the rear before i retorque everything back down. just for alignment reasons?i was thinking of placing a jack under each trunnion saddle and raiseing the rear. what you thinkthanksSome parts guys are pretty good at not checking to make sure you get the correct rods there are a few different lengths and yes one is longer than the other if you have the taper mount which it seems you do a come-along or small bottle jack is all you need to get the axle where it needs to be to get the bolts started. As far as alignment goes they are pretty much self aligning if you put all the correct washers and bolts in the correct places I dont actually think you can misalign it, unless your REALLY SMART! I have has the taper mounts get stuck in there and had to heat and beat to get them out then I thought about it for a minute and with one small 6 ton bottle jack and a couple 4x4's you can pop it right out using the frame as a push point(just dont get too greedy), I put pressure on it with the jack then smack the top of the taper hole with a brass BFH and it pops right out. Quote "Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH" "You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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