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About biffidun

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    Truck Nut

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  1. I just looked at the whipe pattern left after spraying some dry lube (white). In the end, the whipe looked like it was even across the face. Should be good to go. Time will tell. Mack dealership wanted ~$3000 to do this job.
  2. Well it is all back together. I had to reinstall the pinion shaft several times to get the lash setup. You can see in the photo how there are shims on the pinion carrier that set the gap. The new shaft ended up with fewer shims, so the machining is not identical. Another tip for those who might tackle this, is to use the steel disc plate that bolts up to the ring gear axle (see picture). Pick up some 2.5" bolts (the stock bolts are 1.5" in length) and then use the longer bolts and the disc to pull the axle through. Once you are close enough swap the stock bolts in and tighten it up. The j
  3. Well I had to break the bearing to get it off. The part number was on the covered side (or course). New bearing arrives tomorrow. Just in case someone is interested the main inner bearing on the spindle of the pinion is a Timken 5760. The freezer trick won't work since the whole thing cools at once. I had to use a bearing separator, which due to the design of the spindle impacts on the bearing cage. The force to spread it deforms the cage. A new bearing on Amazon is $65, I got one for next day delivery from a local supplier for $95. Not bad really.
  4. Thanks for the info. I have the ring gear pressed on, but the bearing on the pinion shaft is being a B****. I don't have a bearing separator large enough, so I might have to pay someone to get it off or just buy a new bearing from Mack.
  5. Parts look good. Assuming you have a CRD92 front and CRD93 rear; Front axle: (fine) 24KH11073 (PAI7534) Coarse 24KH1917 (PAI 7530) Rear axle: (fine) 24KH1956 (PAI7541) Coarse 24KH1915 (PAI7540) Sometimes you add a "0" to the end of the PAI# There might be an "A" or a "B" beside your Mack part# - don't sweat it, the newer versions of parts have a "B" ending indicating a minor improvement. When I took mine apart the yoke was loose and there was endplay in the stub axle bearing. It must have been like that for some time. What was amazing was that the gears look perfect! no wear whatsoe
  6. Out with the old and in with the new. I have to press the "ring" gear off the stub axle. The PAI part number was 75400. The 4.5 gears look great - just not the right ratio. Anyone want to buy them? It would help offset the $400 for the 4.17 gears
  7. I'm not sweating the setup. Just the part numbers. I'll do a better job than the knuckle draggers that have worked on my truck in the past at the stealership.
  8. That much I have figured out, thanks. I am pretty sure I have the right part number from Mack for a 4.17 gear set - just looking for some confirmation.
  9. OK, so I have the gears out and now I have to figure out what to order. The gears that came out have 47KH3397 stamped on them, which (given my luck) does not match up with anything at the local Mack Dealership. From what I can tell this is a late 70's to early 80's axle. It's the rear axle, so I am going to assume the axle is a CRD93. I am trying to swap the gears to make the axle a 4.17 to match the fron axle. Could someone help me figure out what gear set I need to get a 4.17? I looked up a PAI/Excel part number of 7540, which corresponds with a Mack PN 27KH1915 So what is the deal with the
  10. Thanks. I'll tackle it ASAP. If I think of it I will post some pictures. There is next to nothing on the net about this stuff.
  11. a used rear carrier is about $1500 ... the 45's (ring and pinion gears) are about $300
  12. Not worth calling a lawyer and no they won't own up to it. The truck drives like a bucking bronco. I'll just chalk this one up to a lesson learned.
  13. Ok, so I have finally narrowed down my power divider issues to mismatched drive axles. Front drive axle is 4.17 and rear is 4.5 I have counted the bull gears in both diffs and they are both 55 teeth. I have opened the rear diff at both sides and removed the plates with 3 bolts that appear to center the top shaft. My plan is to switch the rear drive to 4.17 It appears as though I have CDR92, CDR93, CDRPC92 or CDRPC93 - all information on the axle has rusted off so I'm guessing two things, 1st is that it doesn't really matter, 2nd is that I have a CDR93 rear... I figure once I have the gea
  14. Well I've gone and had a look at the truck. The cab doors are a mess (need new locking mechanisms, windows fall down). The center rod (?) that holds the rear suspension beams to the chassis is snapped. Both axles are leaking. Power steering gear box is leaking badly. All of the above is repairable. The big problem was the 8LL. I could hardly drive the thing. I thought it was me so I had the other guy drive it and he had to pull over to get it into gear a couple of times. I think the shift forks are shot. I have no idea what it would cost to repair the trany. I've used 8LLs before an
  15. Thanks for the advice guys. I hope to inspect a couple of trucks in the next week. I'll let you know how it goes.
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