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Air Leak Question for you guys.


jaysm35a2

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I cranked the truck today to take it out for a fuel run. Its well below freezing but she cranked ok and ran great, But , I shut it down I heard a air leak. I see that the air is coming from both my air hoses that go between the truck and trailer at the glad hand and a little screw on the bottom of the part the hoses screw into.

Heres a pic, would changing it out fix it? Im guessing the ?o rings? inside might have gone bad?

post-2596-0-17948800-1323035337_thumb.jp

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I cranked the truck today to take it out for a fuel run. Its well below freezing but she cranked ok and ran great, But , I shut it down I heard a air leak. I see that the air is coming from both my air hoses that go between the truck and trailer at the glad hand and a little screw on the bottom of the part the hoses screw into.

Heres a pic, would changing it out fix it? Im guessing the ?o rings? inside might have gone bad?

That is a TP-1 style tractor protection valve. They are hard to get and obsolte over 20 years ago. I'd go with a TP-3 which is commonplace nowadays.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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That is a TP-1 style tractor protection valve. They are hard to get and obsolte over 20 years ago. I'd go with a TP-3 which is commonplace nowadays.

Rob

Also when you change to the TP-3, you should change the "flipper" style control valve to a new PP-3 or 7 to maintain the automatic safety logic...

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Nuts , I didnt want to change it all over but if I have to , I have to. Would that failing be the reason why im getting constant air from my air lines to the trailer. Its only a tiny bit of air but its constant.

Exactly. there is a shuttle valve inside the TP valve that is air operated. It is stuck partially open from age/corrosion/leakage. The small air line run to this valve is the pilot air line from the flipper switch in the cab for "normal, or emergency" selection. The port inside the TP valve should be blocked from passing air in the emergency position.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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10-4, I looked up the TP-3's and it looks like I can pretty much unbolt the TP-1 and bolt in the TP-3 and connect everything back up with no issues. I dont have a Fleetpride close by so il have to call the IH dealer and KW dealer to see what they have around.

Yes, it is basically a "slip fit". They just look a little different.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Mine started doing the same thing this fall. There is a set screw with a hole in it that is seeping ever so little. If i flip off emergency its fine, but then i have to plug the air lines.

By chance a buddy from ATHS forum has one and is going to get it to me.

Ive had mine apart, it looks fine, all lubed up still. First time I activate it then it starts to leak.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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3! Thats what I was going to ask now.. do I cap that extra line?

You don't. One line is the service, (blue). The other is the emergency, (Red). The last line is the actuator which connects to your dash valve to operate the valve.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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The TP-3 valve uses only two lines...the push button on the dash not only charges the trailer, it opens the valve so that the service chambers on the trailer work when you step on the brakes...I dont think you are supposed to use a flip style switch with the TP-3

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