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Secondary Fuel Filter


Mike
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Hey Guys,

Does anyone have a secondary fuel filter number in a WIX etc. I'm changing the old one I have is a CarQuest #86080 happens to be a 10 micron cartridge filter. I'm not sure as to which is the correct size or filter for this END 673P application. It has the original housing for the filter.

Many Thanks

mike

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Hey Guys,

Does anyone have a secondary fuel filter number in a WIX etc. I'm changing the old one I have is a CarQuest #86080 happens to be a 10 micron cartridge filter. I'm not sure as to which is the correct size or filter for this END 673P application. It has the original housing for the filter.

Many Thanks

mike

You have a Wix filter now. Go to wixfilters.com for any conversions to other vendors.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Rob,

Been there, done that before I posted. It gives me a screw-on type with NAPA etc.

mike

Are you wanting the cartridge filter that goes into a brass filter housing?

Wix is the supplier for all Carquest branded filters. You should be able to get the number converted unless the filter is obsolete; then the real joy begins.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Are you wanting the cartridge filter that goes into a brass filter housing?

Wix is the supplier for all Carquest branded filters. You should be able to get the number converted unless the filter is obsolete; then the real joy begins.

Rob

Yes to the first question. I want the correct cartridge filter. And yes to the second question. I already have the JOY!!!

mike :pat: I can tell it's going to be a long summer. :blink:

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As I was closing out all my computers at the office. I looked down behind my desk where I layed my old filter and low and behold the filter was gone. The cleaning lady had put the filter in the trash can and was now in the dumpster. To make a long story short, I'm glad I wrote down the filter number so I could pick one up. See what'd I tell ya about my luck. I'd been telling my boss we needed to give her a raise, now we'll have to increase it more than ever to get her to do a better job.......AMERICAN PHSYCOLOGY.....it don't work.

mike :wacko:

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I wound up at NAPA and with the CarQuest #86080 they converted it to their #33080. If you go to the Wix filter site you also get a #33090 which is a taller height and a 19 micron filter as opposed to the 10 micron of the #33080. The #33090 also gave me info to the application being for the Mack Trucks 55-69. My #33080 was for Clark, Drott, Galion Hought,Other

Since my truck has no Primary filter yet. I thought it would be better to go with the 10 micron filter #33080 just as long as it filters i'll be happy.

mike :thumb:

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The filter housing had to be taken off the truck because the drain plug was only a stub. Knowing I would have to drill it out I took it to the workbench. It had plenty of crud in the bottom and needed a blasting out with something but I took a screwdriver and got it crud free. The visegrips was not an option for they would not get the drainplug out, so I used drill bits of various sizes and then did the stupid idea to get my new set of screw extractors on the plug and dangit broke the extractor and had to drill it out only to break a bit also. It was not going my way last night but finally got hold of it with PB Blaster and what remained of the stud (filter plug) and low and behold it started to screw out of its thread hold and saved the original threads. It made me feel better and had to hurry up before 8 p.m. to find a plug.

I tried the ACE hardware store with no luck and then raced to the O'Reily Auto parts and they met my needs with a brass plug like original and I got the idea to also get a 1/8 th radiator drain plug. Got home and tried the brass plug but it would not stop weeping fuel so, I used the radiator plug and it must have been what the doctor ordered cause it works great and will be possibly easier to drain the next time I have to do this job. Now all I need to do is install it back on the truck, fill it with fuel, start the truck and wait for fuel to flow out of the vent hose to get the air out if I get to go home my regular time tonight and work on it.

Alls well that ends well :thumb:

mike

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The filter housing had to be taken off the truck because the drain plug was only a stub. Knowing I would have to drill it out I took it to the workbench. It had plenty of crud in the bottom and needed a blasting out with something but I took a screwdriver and got it crud free. The visegrips was not an option for they would not get the drainplug out, so I used drill bits of various sizes and then did the stupid idea to get my new set of screw extractors on the plug and dangit broke the extractor and had to drill it out only to break a bit also. It was not going my way last night but finally got hold of it with PB Blaster and what remained of the stud (filter plug) and low and behold it started to screw out of its thread hold and saved the original threads. It made me feel better and had to hurry up before 8 p.m. to find a plug.

I tried the ACE hardware store with no luck and then raced to the O'Reily Auto parts and they met my needs with a brass plug like original and I got the idea to also get a 1/8 th radiator drain plug. Got home and tried the brass plug but it would not stop weeping fuel so, I used the radiator plug and it must have been what the doctor ordered cause it works great and will be possibly easier to drain the next time I have to do this job. Now all I need to do is install it back on the truck, fill it with fuel, start the truck and wait for fuel to flow out of the vent hose to get the air out if I get to go home my regular time tonight and work on it.

Alls well that ends well :thumb:

mike

Well, I have those days too where I do a lot of screwing with dismal results,,,randy

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Finally today got to play with the fuel filter before we got hit with another round of torential rainfall. I used the g/f to start the B and waited for the fuel to run out the top hose to bleed the air out of the fuel filter. I also had to tighten the plug another 1/4 round cause it started to seep fuel and finally got it stopped and now mission completed. I'm glad that simple parts can aid the life of a machine for awhile longer.

I'm still trying to get the paint removed from my shutters. Been using this spray can of Carbon Off and it has a $13.00 price tag and is primarily used for pots and pans that are used in the kitchens of resturants to get the burned residue off. Believe me when I say it works. But the paint on my shutters are a different matter. I think i've used 5 cans of this stuff and a small portion of paint is still hanging on for dear life. The end results I hope will be to get the shutters to be a natural finish and will spray a coat of clear over the aluminum,unless this clear turns the finish a yellow tint. If anyone has something to say about the possibility of not using a clearcoat please tell me.

Thanks for reading

mike

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Finally today got to play with the fuel filter before we got hit with another round of torential rainfall. I used the g/f to start the B and waited for the fuel to run out the top hose to bleed the air out of the fuel filter. I also had to tighten the plug another 1/4 round cause it started to seep fuel and finally got it stopped and now mission completed. I'm glad that simple parts can aid the life of a machine for awhile longer.

I'm still trying to get the paint removed from my shutters. Been using this spray can of Carbon Off and it has a $13.00 price tag and is primarily used for pots and pans that are used in the kitchens of resturants to get the burned residue off. Believe me when I say it works. But the paint on my shutters are a different matter. I think i've used 5 cans of this stuff and a small portion of paint is still hanging on for dear life. The end results I hope will be to get the shutters to be a natural finish and will spray a coat of clear over the aluminum,unless this clear turns the finish a yellow tint. If anyone has something to say about the possibility of not using a clearcoat please tell me.

Thanks for reading

mike

if i remember right... i used "dad's" paint stripper. i can go to the barn and look tomorrow to see if thats it. i had 4 coats of paint on my shutter and it worked really well. it didnt take all the paint off the pivot rods on back of shutter but i am going to paint them. i just painted the outside shutter frame today (by chance) and will paint the rods this weekend probably. i took a pic of the new paint i did today but it is still loaded on camera in barn.

post-3642-127535480956_thumb.jpg

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if i remember right... i used "dad's" paint stripper. i can go to the barn and look tomorrow to see if thats it. i had 4 coats of paint on my shutter and it worked really well. it didnt take all the paint off the pivot rods on back of shutter but i am going to paint them. i just painted the outside shutter frame today (by chance) and will paint the rods this weekend probably. i took a pic of the new paint i did today but it is still loaded on camera in barn.

paint stripper easily cleaned up the aluminum but it didnt clean up the weatherstrip on back of the shutters that closes them off when they shut. does your cleaner by chance work on the rubber weatherstrip? i figure i may have to paint the rubber strips if nothing else can be found as the old paint on them is quite stubborn.

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paint stripper easily cleaned up the aluminum but it didnt clean up the weatherstrip on back of the shutters that closes them off when they shut. does your cleaner by chance work on the rubber weatherstrip? i figure i may have to paint the rubber strips if nothing else can be found as the old paint on them is quite stubborn.

Don't hit the rubber with methylene chloride which is the main ingredient of commercial paint strippers. It will soften and destroy the rubber. Use something like 3M safe strip or one of the citrus based paint strippers which is much easier on the rubber. It doesn't work near as fast.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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paint stripper easily cleaned up the aluminum but it didnt clean up the weatherstrip on back of the shutters that closes them off when they shut. does your cleaner by chance work on the rubber weatherstrip? i figure i may have to paint the rubber strips if nothing else can be found as the old paint on them is quite stubborn.

AJ,

I'm trying to keep any chemical off the rubber shutter weatherstriping. Thus far i've done well. And yes I had about 4 layers of paint on mine also. The product i'm using (CARBON OFF) don't know if it is safe on the rubber but have used chemical strippers on cars before but had all chrome and other parts covered and was careful then. When I saw your shutters they look just like the stage mine are in. In fact they look identical as mine are.

Rob,

I'll look but very sure this is not a chemical strip by my favorite company as 3M. 99.9999% sure.......not ready to buy large quantities of stripper yet. This stuff is bad but it has taken many cans to strip this paint off shutters. My finger nail has been used on stubborn places that has not been coming off. I just don't like the results from using a scrapper. Scars them too badly. I have been using scotch brite on the aluminum.

mike

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