New Truck...what To Do First?

[teleman]

Bought a 63 B61T triplex single axle from a friend of mine.I figured he would never sell anything so he surprised me when he said that he would sell it and the extra parts he collected for it.He said he wasnt going to get around to fixing it so he would like to see it saved.He said it ran fine when he bought it and drove it to the shop but hasnt been run for 10-12 years.I read what I could on the forum but what should I do first to try to start it?...do I need to pour something in the cylinders or mix something with the fuel for lubrication...thanks...Jim

[jaysm35a2]

Jim ,

Put it in the drive way , get a lawn chair and stare at it like I do. I cant keep from looking out the window at mine. You have a great project to start with, im curious also to hear what all should be done to one that hasnt been ran in a while or used very much. -

[cgallamore]

i would use a clean 5 gallon can of fuel, new filters and some diesel treat like howes, instead of the tank to start with

[jaysm35a2]

What do you think of Disel Kleen products? Like the gray bottle and white bottle.

[vision386]

Bought a 63 B61T triplex single axle from a friend of mine.I figured he would never sell anything so he surprised me when he said that he would sell it and the extra parts he collected for it.He said he wasnt going to get around to fixing it so he would like to see it saved.He said it ran fine when he bought it and drove it to the shop but hasnt been run for 10-12 years.I read what I could on the forum but what should I do first to try to start it?...do I need to pour something in the cylinders or mix something with the fuel for lubrication...thanks...Jim

Might sound like a lot of work,but i grew up in southern new jersey on a small truck farm ran by my grandfather,who was a product of the depression era,he never ever bought anything new.When we would get a "new" truck,he would always put marvel mystery oil in the cylinders,then pull the oil pan,inspect the lower end,both visually and mechanically,clean and inspect the oil pump pick-up, check for anything odd in the pan, usually try to turn the engine by hand,if possible ,see if there were any obvious problems,repair/replace any seals,belts, hoses that needed changed.then top end inspection, valves, springs etc.This was the procedure we followed on the first truck i drove, a 1963 B-61T,that was an old hess oil truck,this truck is still in existance,still runs well, but unfortunately is not owned by me. I sure hope this is some help to you,and i wish you good luck with your project!.....mark

[bullhusk]

Mark, My dad would use the same stuff, only when he would pour it into the cyl. he would cut it uith diesel. He would also take the valve covers off and pour it all over the rocker & valve assem. before turning by hand.Must be a Jersey thing I guess? BULLHUSK From Jersey

[vanscottbuilders]

Jim,

You're getting good advice here so far. I'll just stick in my two cents -

The older 673 Mack diesels seem to be pretty care-free and easy to start after sitting for a long time.

Some of the more obvious things are:

Make sure the engine turns over with no real bad noises. Either do this on batteries, or push it in a high gear. There is no reason to believe that there will be any problem, if it ran well before it was parked, but it's best to check if possible.

Check the engine oil, and keep an eye open for water discoloration. Do the same for the coolant. Just make sure you have sufficient amounts of each, and in the right locations.

Clean the fuel screen and put in a new fuel filter cartridge.

I like to remove the valve covers and check all air intake tubes for mouse nests. They have fouled up more than one project on me, and contrary to popular belief, mouse shit doesn't burn well in a diesel engine.

If you are going to try to start it on batteries, obviously you will need good ones. And, just as important, carefully check all of the connections from the batteries through the series parallel switch and to the starter. If using batteries, pay attention to the polarities, as these trucks were positive ground systems. It can get confusing. I prefer to push start these old trucks, as it allows me to see if I have decent oil pressure before the engine starts running.

Now - most important - be certain that the fuel pump rack is free and that the shut-down cable is functioning. The fuel pump control can allow the engine to run away if it is sticking in the open position. I've never experienced this, but I don't think any good can come from it.

Disconnect the fuel pick-up line between the tank and the fuel screen, thereby eliminating the tank from the fuel supply system. Lengthen the line as needed and drop it in a 5 gallon bucket full of fresh fuel up on the frame behind the cab. (Strap the pail down tight!) That 5 gallons won't last long, as the return line is sending fuel back to the fuel tank.

Clean fuel, decent compression and a supply of fresh air is all you need for one of these to run.

You will need to prime the fuel system. Use the hand prime pump located near the front of the fuel pump. You will probably have to do quite a bit of pumping, as changing the filters will introduce a lot of air into the system, which is already probably full of air from sitting around for a long time.

I personally wouldn't bother with additives, ether, or any other stuff until you see if it will start and run under its' own power. As long as the hood has been closed, or if by chance the truck has been inside, it should start right up and run fine. If moisture has gotten to the cylinder liners and the rings, then no amount of additive will correct the problem. The real key is to determine that the engine is free and turning prior to start-up.

After starting, run it a little while (for your own satisfaction). Then get the oil and coolant changed, use the Marvel Mystery Oil at that time, if you want, and get complete new filters on the engine. Check the belts and hoses - and plan on replacing them. Pressure test the radiator and inspect it carefully.

Clean out the fuel tanks really well. Best to remove them and patch the leaks, steam clean them inside and out and check the fuel pick-up. But that's a project for another day.

Now, if everything checks out good, you should run the engine for an extended time, get it good and warm and run it under load if possible. And you should be good to go.

All in all - it's a really enjoyable Saturday project!

These single axle tractors are becoming harder and harder to find, and they are becoming very popular. You have a nice project ahead of you and a lot of good people here to help you out.

Have Fun and keep us posted.

Paul Van Scott

[vision386]

Mark, My dad would use the same stuff, only when he would pour it into the cyl. he would cut it uith diesel. He would also take the valve covers off and pour it all over the rocker & valve assem. before turning by hand.Must be a Jersey thing I guess? BULLHUSK From Jersey

Oh ok! another jersey guy! seems to be a lot of us on here,i was born in paterson,we moved down to south jersey when i was a kid,lived there all my life until 2 1/2 years ago when we moved to virginia. Closer to my out-bound freight,got tired of corrzine,taxes,cost of living etc. but believe me,we miss jersey! its a different world down here thats for sure!...mark

[vision386]

Jim,

You're getting good advice here so far. I'll just stick in my two cents -

The older 673 Mack diesels seem to be pretty care-free and easy to start after sitting for a long time.

Some of the more obvious things are:

Make sure the engine turns over with no real bad noises. Either do this on batteries, or push it in a high gear. There is no reason to believe that there will be any problem, if it ran well before it was parked, but it's best to check if possible.

Check the engine oil, and keep an eye open for water discoloration. Do the same for the coolant. Just make sure you have sufficient amounts of each, and in the right locations.

Clean the fuel screen and put in a new fuel filter cartridge.

I like to remove the valve covers and check all air intake tubes for mouse nests. They have fouled up more than one project on me, and contrary to popular belief, mouse shit doesn't burn well in a diesel engine.

If you are going to try to start it on batteries, obviously you will need good ones. And, just as important, carefully check all of the connections from the batteries through the series parallel switch and to the starter. If using batteries, pay attention to the polarities, as these trucks were positive ground systems. It can get confusing. I prefer to push start these old trucks, as it allows me to see if I have decent oil pressure before the engine starts running.

Now - most important - be certain that the fuel pump rack is free and that the shut-down cable is functioning. The fuel pump control can allow the engine to run away if it is sticking in the open position. I've never experienced this, but I don't think any good can come from it.

Disconnect the fuel pick-up line between the tank and the fuel screen, thereby eliminating the tank from the fuel supply system. Lengthen the line as needed and drop it in a 5 gallon bucket full of fresh fuel up on the frame behind the cab. (Strap the pail down tight!) That 5 gallons won't last long, as the return line is sending fuel back to the fuel tank.

Clean fuel, decent compression and a supply of fresh air is all you need for one of these to run.

You will need to prime the fuel system. Use the hand prime pump located near the front of the fuel pump. You will probably have to do quite a bit of pumping, as changing the filters will introduce a lot of air into the system, which is already probably full of air from sitting around for a long time.

I personally wouldn't bother with additives, ether, or any other stuff until you see if it will start and run under its' own power. As long as the hood has been closed, or if by chance the truck has been inside, it should start right up and run fine. If moisture has gotten to the cylinder liners and the rings, then no amount of additive will correct the problem. The real key is to determine that the engine is free and turning prior to start-up.

After starting, run it a little while (for your own satisfaction). Then get the oil and coolant changed, use the Marvel Mystery Oil at that time, if you want, and get complete new filters on the engine. Check the belts and hoses - and plan on replacing them. Pressure test the radiator and inspect it carefully.

Clean out the fuel tanks really well. Best to remove them and patch the leaks, steam clean them inside and out and check the fuel pick-up. But that's a project for another day.

Now, if everything checks out good, you should run the engine for an extended time, get it good and warm and run it under load if possible. And you should be good to go.

All in all - it's a really enjoyable Saturday project!

These single axle tractors are becoming harder and harder to find, and they are becoming very popular. You have a nice project ahead of you and a lot of good people here to help you out.

Have Fun and keep us posted.

Paul Van Scott

Thats just what i wanted to say in better detail! thats almost textbook for getting a truck thats been sitting running! my eyes just can't take all the typing!...mark

[teleman]

Thanks guys and thanks Paul for the detailed advice.Had her towed home this morning and parked her in the drive next to the garage...and whats got me really worried is that my wife came home from work and never said one word about the truck!!!with out fail she has always stormed out to the garage and demanded to know whats that thing doing in her driveway...hmmmmmm...Anyway the plan is to pressure wash it,clean everything out and check out the wiring and get some batteries(maybe two 12 volts)and go from there.It looks like alot of work but Im excited to have it home.Thanks Jim

[Greg Rider]

Do NOT forget a fire extinguisher. Wiring can dry out and it seems to be a favorite of rodents to chew on. Have a helper stand to the side with it and a cell phone.

[vision386]

Do NOT forget a fire extinguisher. Wiring can dry out and it seems to be a favorite of rodents to chew on. Have a helper stand to the side with it and a cell phone.

Thats good sound advice!......mark

[teleman]

Yes I will have a fire extinguisher ready.I put a battery disconect on my other two trucks just in case.Anyway good news...I took a short pry bar and was able to turn the flywheel with no problem.I came out this morning with a can of wasp spray in one hand and pb blaster in the other....Jim

[teleman]

Went out this morning and checked over the wiring and traced the wires to the switch between the seats and it all looked OK so I hooked up 2 12 volt 31 batteries.Turned on the key and pushed the button and after a few clicking sounds from the sp switch it turned over.The next time no clicking and turned over fine...Im pressure washing the engine next then put some new fuel to her and see what happens...I did find that the scraper was broke off the shaft in the primary fuel filter so Im going to try to solder it back on...Jim

Edited May 23, 2010 by billyjay

[teleman]

Ok...got the primary filter scraper fixed,cleaned and filled with fuel.Secondary filter housing cleaned but could not find any # on the filter so Ill take it down to the napa store in the morning.Got the primer pump freed up,throttle lever and shut off lever work freely so I think Im good as soon as I find a secondary fuel fiter.As for the oil filter,its a big canister on left side with two big lines on the bottom and a small line in between.Would anyone know the #s for these filters...Thanks Jim

[Mike]

Ok...got the primary filter scraper fixed,cleaned and filled with fuel.Secondary filter housing cleaned but could not find any # on the filter so Ill take it down to the napa store in the morning.Got the primer pump freed up,throttle lever and shut off lever work freely so I think Im good as soon as I find a secondary fuel fiter.As for the oil filter,its a big canister on left side with two big lines on the bottom and a small line in between.Would anyone know the #s for these filters...Thanks Jim

You have the same oil filter housing as mine which is called the Duplex Clairifier has 2 large hoses and 1 small hose.

The numbers you want are as follows:

Mack # 236GB312

WIX #5130

CarQuest #85030 it is a WIX filter

Fram # C173B

I hope this helps.

mike