rockyvander Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 I have an 84 E 6 engine in a 1960 B61 , an older crank was installed that required the old lead rope seal , anyone out there that is familar with this and where to get new seal ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanscottbuilders Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 There isn't really a rear seal, as we think of a seal, in the old Thermodyne diesel engines. The Mack people refer to it as a dust cover, designed to keep contaminants out of the engine. They don't seem too concerned about keeping oil in the engine!The Mack dealers still have those parts in their system. I just recently got one myself from Beam Mack in Rochester, NY. They are not very expensive, and I assume that any knowledgeable Mack parts person should be able to help you out.Paul Van Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildirt Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 The part # is 446 TC 25WW diesel has several in different stores - dubois and erie, PA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverstar Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 I have an 84 E 6 engine in a 1960 B61 , an older crank was installed that required the old lead rope seal , anyone out there that is familar with this and where to get new seal ?dont know if you got a good answer, or found your info yet but i am currently dealing with the same situation. My local mack dealer, R&R mack in ohio could get the lead for around 7 bucks, i chose to convert it to the new style rubber seal. The deal price for conversion ( buying new housing and seal) was around 200 buck. If you need more infor let me know. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Like Paul said it is a dust cover. Tears ago when they were around and you found one leaking oil you was pretty sure it was the seal but in real life it was too much blow by. The oil is held in the engine with a slinger on the crank.If i can remnber correct the slinger was part of the crank and deflected the oil away from the lead dust seal.To instal you mash all you can of the lead wire in the grove and then roll it in with a round roller. Then with a soft hammer tap it up over the crank and that will size the seal to the crank. remove and grease and install. glenn Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 We still stock the lead seal, but converting to the newer style (with rubber seal) is the way to go! Quote Barry - Watt's Truck Center Parts Manager and BMT Webmaster...1-888-304-MACK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 We still stock the lead seal, but converting to the newer style (with rubber seal) is the way to go! Hey Barry, How much better is this rubber setup than the lead dust cover in longevity? THX mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 The part # is 446 TC 25WW diesel has several in different stores - dubois and erie, PA. I just got off the phone with MACK OF NASHVILLE and they corrected the part # 446 TC 25 to Part # 446 GC 25. They just called me back and said they could not sell me one seal but I had to buy 10. They would not split up a case for one. I told them to forget me. Just my luck again mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackpro Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 I just got off the phone with MACK OF NASHVILLE and they corrected the part # 446 TC 25 to Part # 446 GC 25. They just called me back and said they could not sell me one seal but I had to buy 10. They would not split up a case for one. I told them to forget me. Just my luck again mikeThey had none in stock and had to order 10 to get 1 and didn't want to get stuck with 9 of a slow moving part. WorldWide of Knoxville TN shows 8 in stock give them a call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 They had none in stock and had to order 10 to get 1 and didn't want to get stuck with 9 of a slow moving part. WorldWide of Knoxville TN shows 8 in stock give them a call. I gave them a call and got it ordered and it should be here by friday. I'm surprised of not hearing of them been by there many times. My many thanks for your help and knowledge of them. THX mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 I gave them a call and got it ordered and it should be here by friday. I'm surprised of not hearing of them been by there many times. My many thanks for your help and knowledge of them. THX mikeGuess I should have mentioned that I have them in stock and will sell 1 at a time! LOLIf you change the housing to the rubber seal style and still have the crankshaft oil slinger in place...it will never leak! The lead seal is good for longevity but it is a bitch to change the lead seal. The rubber is a better choice for ease of use.Here's the whole kit:http://www.bigmacktr...products_id=425Replacement Lead Seal:http://www.bigmacktr...products_id=426 Quote Barry - Watt's Truck Center Parts Manager and BMT Webmaster...1-888-304-MACK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverstar Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Guess I should have mentioned that I have them in stock and will sell 1 at a time! LOLIf you change the housing to the rubber seal style and still have the crankshaft oil slinger in place...it will never leak! The lead seal is good for longevity but it is a bitch to change the lead seal. The rubber is a better choice for ease of use.Here's the whole kit:http://www.bigmacktr...products_id=425Replacement Lead Seal:http://www.bigmacktr...products_id=426i need to chime in here. I am in the process of converting from the lead seal to the rubber seal. The problem is that the new housing mack gives you, requires you to cut the slinger off. The housing WILL NOT go on with out cutting it off. My question is how do i cut this off without getting crap in the pan. I thought the slinger was pressed on and here it is part of the crank. My local Mack dealer failed to mention that i had to do all the cutting. Any suggestions??? I am ready to return the parts and just get the lead seal. Help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 i need to chime in here. I am in the process of converting from the lead seal to the rubber seal. The problem is that the new housing mack gives you, requires you to cut the slinger off. The housing WILL NOT go on with out cutting it off. My question is how do i cut this off without getting crap in the pan. I thought the slinger was pressed on and here it is part of the crank. My local Mack dealer failed to mention that i had to do all the cutting. Any suggestions??? I am ready to return the parts and just get the lead seal. Help. MAN that just burns my biscuits when stuff happens like at. I'd just stay with whats tried an true.Thanks for sharing. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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