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350 Goes Dead


JerryB
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Gentlemen,

I have a 96 CH613 with 350 that sat not running several months, ran fine when parked.

Now when I crank it the emergency shut down light comes on and engine goes dead. If I turn ignition off and back on the light goes off and it will immediately fire back up and run for about 30 seconds then same thing all over again. Oil is full and oil pressure is good and radiator is full of coolant so what gives?? Thanks-Jerry

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Gentlemen,

I have a 96 CH613 with 350 that sat not running several months, ran fine when parked.

Now when I crank it the emergency shut down light comes on and engine goes dead. If I turn ignition off and back on the light goes off and it will immediately fire back up and run for about 30 seconds then same thing all over again. Oil is full and oil pressure is good and radiator is full of coolant so what gives?? Thanks-Jerry

I don't know if your truck uses a system like gensets but the problem sounds very similar to a couple I've had in the past. During startup the engine is run on "closed loop" meaning it does not sample all external sensors on the engine. After an established delay in the system passes, the controller changes to "open loop" operation. Upon polling sensors and finding an error, the engine shuts down as a precautionary measure.

This could be low oil pressure, high/low coolant temperature, or coolant circulation. You also could have a control module "tits up".

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Gentlemen,

I have a 96 CH613 with 350 that sat not running several months, ran fine when parked.

Now when I crank it the emergency shut down light comes on and engine goes dead. If I turn ignition off and back on the light goes off and it will immediately fire back up and run for about 30 seconds then same thing all over again. Oil is full and oil pressure is good and radiator is full of coolant so what gives?? Thanks-Jerry

Is the red shut down light coming on ORRRR s the eml light on or both?If both are on I would take a guess at the oil preasure sensor being bad.The engine will shut down after 1 minute under 3 conditons low oil psi high coolant temp OR SUM TIMEs low coolant depending on how its set.

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Is the red shut down light coming on ORRRR s the eml light on or both?If both are on I would take a guess at the oil preasure sensor being bad.The engine will shut down after 1 minute under 3 condtions low oil psi high coolant temp OR SUM TIMEs low coolant depending on how its set.

fjh only the red light that says *emergency shut down* comes on. The yellow *electronic malfunction* light does not come on at anytime. Thanks to you and Rob for your interest. I've checked oil and water levels and they're both full. The oil pressure gauge shows 80-85psi and the water temp is up to 140f degrees.

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I've checked oil and water levels and they're both full. The oil pressure gauge shows 80-85psi and the water temp is up to 140f degrees.

Doesn't matter.

If you've got a bad sensor it may be telling the ECM that there is low or no oil pressure, high coolant temp, or low coolant level, depending on which sensor is defective.

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Doesn't matter.

If you've got a bad sensor it may be telling the ECM that there is low or no oil pressure, high coolant temp, or low coolant level, depending on which sensor is defective.

.

You're right HK but I wanted you guys to know I had done the preliminaries to be sure the problem isn't being caused from low liquids. It's getting dark so I'll check some more tomorrow. Thanks to all of you for your input.

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You need to take it to mack and get the ecm read and it will tell you the reason it sees a shut down need.

Things to try!

If the eml light is working it should turn on then go out on key up!If it doesent! repair it!

once repaired and IF it comes on and goes out There are no active codes

If you have an active code you can pull an active blink code from the dash switches (unless its disabled) by == Don't quote me its been a while but I beleive key on speed control off press and hold the set resume switch till the light goes out watch the eml light for blinks ,count the blinks and post em! DO NOT!!!!! togle the speed control on/ off switch 3 times you'll dump the the idle down to 500! don.t have the code list here at home but 68 might remember or have an idea about the codes!I can get the code list ,tues ,when I m back at work!

Also just for kicks !a quite common spot for a wiring oil preasure glitch is where the wire to the oil switch is clamped to the oil cooler just in front of the starter Take the clamp off there and take a good look at the wire in that area! Also I think you can deek out the putor at the o/p switch with a paper clip jumping the wires together the puter asumes a short!

heres a write up

In a stopped position with your unit OFF, Turn the key to the ON position and wait until the power-up test is finished.

2. The malfunction warning light must stay on after the power-up test is finished in order to properly retrieve your 2 digit "blink" fault code.

3. With the speed control ON/OFF switch in the OFF position, PRESS & HOLD the SET/DECEL or the RESUME/ACCEL switch until the fault lamp goes OFF.

4. The fault lamp will remain OFF for approximately one second.

5. Immediately after, the VMACIII Module will begin to flash a two-digit blink code.

6. The two digits of the code will be separated by a one second pause (fault lamp will be off).

7. Each digit of the blink code may consist of up to ten ON/OFF flashes. The ON/OFF time for each flash will be one-fourth of a second.

8. Count the number of blinks or ON flashes in the first set of flashes and how many times in the second set of flashes.

9. You now have your fault code. E.g.: 1-7.

*Check the Fault Code Identification Table to trace your problem*

o/p possibly 1-1 code over heat possibly 1-2 code the codes posted are for 98 0r newer

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Thanks to each and everyone for the input.

fjh your comment on wiring made me want to trace all the wires. The oil pressure wire you spoke of was broken and corroded deep within the protective wrapping so after cleaning and re-connecting the wire old babe runs like a pup again. Thanks again guys. Jerry

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Thanks to each and everyone for the input.

fjh your comment on wiring made me want to trace all the wires. The oil pressure wire you spoke of was broken and corroded deep within the protective wrapping so after cleaning and re-connecting the wire old babe runs like a pup again. Thanks again guys. Jerry

Well done Bro!

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