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Leaking Tandems


tylerstanley
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have a 2006 cv713 with a s440 rear ends. Pardon me for my lack of technical terms, but there is diff. oil leaking around both of the tandems where the drive shaft comes into the top carrier. The front tandem had the power divider, then after that is where it is leaking. Its not a bad leak on the front tandem, but the bottom seems to get worse all the time. Well, anyways, my dealer says there are no seals or gaskets to put there???? Its just metal to metal? Is that correct, and if its not, how hard is it to replace the seals to get them to stop leaking.

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have a 2006 cv713 with a s440 rear ends. Pardon me for my lack of technical terms, but there is diff. oil leaking around both of the tandems where the drive shaft comes into the top carrier. The front tandem had the power divider, then after that is where it is leaking. Its not a bad leak on the front tandem, but the bottom seems to get worse all the time. Well, anyways, my dealer says there are no seals or gaskets to put there???? Its just metal to metal? Is that correct, and if its not, how hard is it to replace the seals to get them to stop leaking.

Sounds like you're saying it's leaking where the pinion housing attaches to the differential housing. If that's the case, there are steel shims in there that are used to adjust the pinion depth. Are the bolts that hold the pinion housing onto the diff housing tight? Check that first.

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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have a 2006 cv713 with a s440 rear ends. Pardon me for my lack of technical terms, but there is diff. oil leaking around both of the tandems where the drive shaft comes into the top carrier. The front tandem had the power divider, then after that is where it is leaking. Its not a bad leak on the front tandem, but the bottom seems to get worse all the time. Well, anyways, my dealer says there are no seals or gaskets to put there???? Its just metal to metal? Is that correct, and if its not, how hard is it to replace the seals to get them to stop leaking.

Can you provide a picture?

The power divider was resealed?Mack top load diffs have inside bolts that some times come loose!Then leak at where the diff bolts to the housing,Is this where your leak apears ?

Near the large side cover lh side?

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Can you provide a picture?

The power divider was resealed?Mack top load diffs have inside bolts that some times come loose!Then leak at where the diff bolts to the housing,Is this where your leak apears ?

Near the large side cover lh side?

Don't forget the possibility of a crack in the banjo housing in that area also, if it's a fabricated steel housing, especially on the rearmost one with the transverse torque rod.

I've welded up a couple of those that did that.

But it sounds to me like he's referring to where the pinion housing bolts to the front of the diff.

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Don't forget the possibility of a crack in the banjo housing in that area also, if it's a fabricated steel housing, especially on the rearmost one with the transverse torque rod.

I've welded up a couple of those that did that.

But it sounds to me like he's referring to where the pinion housing bolts to the front of the diff.

.

Yup your right on that possiblity hk but My observation on that is that normaly happend on the back diff housing or one that has a torque rod to the frame.

Very possible if the truck has torque rods.

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the truck has a torque rod on the rear tandem....... but not on the front tandem. Its not leaking where the top part mounts to the bottom housing, but where the drive shaft comes into the tandem its self. there are bolts that are odd looking. Like you have to use a 16 point wrench to tighten them up. But they are tight, I have already checked...... Ill see if I can get a picture tomorrow. If i had these two leaks fixed, then i would have a "leak free" truck! I just fixed a shepherd steering gear that the seal was leaking opposite the sector shaft. Well, I take that back, the 4 stage dump hoist is leaking, but from what i heard, you could put new seals in it, and the next day it would leak????

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the 4 stage dump hoist is leaking, but from what i heard, you could put new seals in it, and the next day it would leak????

If a new or rebuilt telescopic hoist cylinder starts leaking soon after installation, it's usually because the pins are worn at the rear hinge where the dump body attaches to the frame.

Worn rear pins allow the dump body to swing from side to side when raised, and that will wreck the seals in short order, especially if the driver is in the habit of driving away before the body is all the way back down, which results in the dump body slamming from side to side and pounding sideways on the hoist cylinder as the wheels travel over uneven ground.

If the rear hinge pins are shot, fix them first, then replace or rebuild the cylinder.

After that, be sure the pins are greased daily and they should last a long time.

Also, try to allow the body to come all the way down before driving away after dumping.

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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the truck has a torque rod on the rear tandem....... but not on the front tandem. Its not leaking where the top part mounts to the bottom housing, but where the drive shaft comes into the tandem its self. there are bolts that are odd looking. Like you have to use a 16 point wrench to tighten them up. But they are tight, I have already checked...... Ill see if I can get a picture tomorrow. If i had these two leaks fixed, then i would have a "leak free" truck! I just fixed a shepherd steering gear that the seal was leaking opposite the sector shaft. Well, I take that back, the 4 stage dump hoist is leaking, but from what i heard, you could put new seals in it, and the next day it would leak????

The bolts are 12 point if the leak is on the rh side( sitting in the drivers seat) there is oil return holes that side ya need to pull that whole thing out clean and dri all the shims between that peice and the housing and apply a thin coat of silcone to both sides of each shim all the way around and re install.and tighten the hell out of them bolts!

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That's just damp, not really leaking.

As long as you have made sure the bolts are tight, I'd recommend leaving it alone.

If something starts leaking to the point where it's actually wet or oil is dripping, then it's time to take action.

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Is this not a easy fix? ONe guy told me that every camelback he has saw leaks right there, and you can never get it to stop.

I admire your pursuit of perfection.

That said, save your exuberance for something more worthy of repair. Owning your own truck will present many opportunities to justifiably pull wrenches, at all hours of the day or night.

If you really want to "fix" that "leak", then do what fjh said to do, and make sure you don't overdo it with the silicone, or the drain holes could get plugged up and then you will have a problem.

It seems that the "tide of public opinion" regarding this issue is unanimous: let it be.

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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this is not our only truck...... BUT its the one I drive, so I like to keep it in perfection. We installed the new Michelin Xone XZY3 on the rear tandems this summer, and have gained 600 hundred pounds in payload capacity. My truck was the tester for these tires, I love them. What are your thoughts on the super singles on tri-axles? ANd have you ever heard any comments on them? Also, while Im at it, the truck is a 06' with a ASET 427. Are there any engine updates or anything of that nature that would give my truck more power, with just tinkering with the computer..... thanks

also thanks for the replys on this subject. HK Trucking and FJH.

post-3358-12531485899816_thumb.jpg

Edited by tylerstanley
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What are your thoughts on the super singles on tri-axles?

Never tried them anywhere except on the steer axle.

My only concerns would be that in the event of a blowout, you're finished right where it happens, no possibility of "limping" to a safe stopping place or tire shop like when one tire on a dual wheel blows out, and since the footprint of a super single is slightly less than the total footprint of a set of duals, you may have a little less flotation in soft ground.

Keep me posted on how they work out for you.

.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Regarding the minor oil seepage at the pinion housing, have you checked the vent cap on the carrier to make sure it isn't plugged? When the oil gets hot it expands and the pressure has to go somewhere. That somewhere is usually out through a wheel seal, pinion seal, or maybe in your case the pinion housing shims. Just a thought.

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Never tried them anywhere except on the steer axle.

My only concerns would be that in the event of a blowout, you're finished right where it happens, no possibility of "limping" to a safe stopping place or tire shop like when one tire on a dual wheel blows out, and since the footprint of a super single is slightly less than the total footprint of a set of duals, you may have a little less flotation in soft ground.

Keep me posted on how they work out for you.

.

I agree with you on a blowout. BUT I must disagree with you on the footprint, the supersingles have a greater footprint than two duals. They are also better in the mud and soft dirt than duals. What they do is ride on top of the ground, instead of cutting into the dirt like duals. I had my first experience in the dirt with them, and the exact same trucks as mine, but with duals, were getting hung up, where i just went right past them. They are far superior to duals in the soft stuff......

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