MidniteMechanic

We use 3m Roloc discs on a die grinder. You can find them at most parts places. The Scotch-brite disc works great but will gouge aluminum if not careful. Shouldn't use them on highly machined parts like heads but there ok for hub caps and such. The bristle discs won't gouge the aluminum but are slower. Spray on gasket removers take to long, you have to soak it down good and wait forever. Brian

If anybody has two RS-700-L emblems I would be interested. Send me a email. Thanks Brian

That amount of 'smoke' i'd lean toward coolant leaking into the crankcase. Do like Glenn said and crack the pan plug. Brian

Your better off leaving the system filled with properly mixed antifreeze. It will prevent rust from forming and the seals from drying out. But if you still want to drain it, there should be a draincock on the right rear of the block below the exhaust manifold and one on the rear of the oil cooler above the oil filters.

I would guess the 5th wheel weighs about 3-400 lbs. Two people can handle it.

Don't know how often, but the buttress bolts should be retorqued periodically. I have seen some that were never retorqued and spun the main bearings.

Use more heat or slice it with the torch.

You have a viscous fan drive. They've been used for years, but I'm not a big fan of them. It would be best if you had a infrared temp gun, that would tell alot. I don't know what degree thermostat you have. But when the engine is running take the block temp near the water sending unit. That will tell you if the dash gauge is ok. There will be a few degrees difference. I've found ones that when water temp in engine is near 180 the gauge showed 200. Check the temp on the engine side of the thermostat, and then on the hose to the radiator. When the thermostat opens, you'll see the rad hose equal the temp of the engine. If the hose stays 'cold' and the engine temp keeps rising after the thermostat was supposed to open, the thermostat is stuck. If all is ok this far, when the engine is 'at temp' and running, check the temp at the top radiator hose and then the bottom hose that returns to the engine. The bottom hose should be somewhere between 8 & 10 degrees colder than the top hose. If this is not happening, this opens two possibilities, either the water pump is not circulating properly or the the radiator is blocked internally with deposits. Lastly if you made it this far, remember how the fan turned by hand when the truck was cold. Now when the temp gets to 220 like you say, shut off the truck and check how the fan turns. It should turn with much more resistance. If it doesn't it's junk, buy a new one or invest in an air clutch. By the way before anyone says you can't shut off an engine when it's that hot, it'll never hurt it for the short time needed to check the fan drive. WOW that was long winded!! But that's pretty much how I would do it.

Sounds like the poppet valves need adjusted.

I would say you have a bad shock on the right side. And way too much toe in.

We use 80-90w gear oil in all our hubs, including trailer hubs.

You can get the wiring diagrams right from Mack. They don't cost very much.

Keep the buttress bolts for the main bearing caps torqued to 100 lb ft.

The 'pop can' cylinder sound like a Stemco moisture ejector. It has an air line going to the air governor that causes the ejector to spit when the compressor unloads. There the biggest piece of junk waste of money there is. A simple pull type drain valve on the wet tank is much more effective. A Bendix MV-2 valve is rebuildable, the MV-3 is not. A new MV-3 only costs about $85. If it's a Midland valve then it'll cost $200-300.

I'm sure there will be many opinions on this. If the rear axle tires are all about the same depth I just move them straight front. If the right rear is worn more than the left rear I move them diagonally to the front. This is assuming the rear drive has less tread than the front. Always keep the deeper tread on the rear. If the truck has Mack rears then keep the deepest depth on the same side. Don't put new tires on the rear and worn ones on the front. Put the new ones all on one side.

Definately save the mess and just pull the driveshaft off at the front rear.

Sometimes air leaks can be a b___ to find. I would guess the air dryer purge valve is leaking. Could be a faulty O-ring in the purge valve. Or a sticking air governor will cause the purge valve to hang open after it cycles. A leaking fan clutch will stop leaking within 2-3 seconds after the key is off.

Thanks for the offer Keith. But the deal fell thru. Brian

No it doesn't matter which way the oil flows. Yes everything will self purge when you drive it. Depending on the length of the lines and size of cooler, it will only take a few extra pints of oil. Extra oil helps cool to!

By the way you'll need to recheck the oil level after you hookup the cooler again and drive the truck.

First off check why the lines are disconnected. Does the cooler leak? Engines over 400 hp require them. And with todays aerodynamics theres not enough airflow under the truck to cool the transmission without a cooler.

Hi all, I'm looking at a Farmall tractor in Nebraska. Would need it moved closer to Pennsylvania. If I could find something close to the same weight going west I would consider taking it to defray the cost and pick up the tractor myself.

Each driveshaft must have the front and rear yokes aligned with each other. Usually there are arrows or a line scribed on the yoke and splined section. If the shaft yokes aren't in line it will cause a vibration and u-joint wear.

We never expected more than 300,000 out of our 6v92's. Like someone said they spent all day on the governor that's the only way to get any power out of them. We built ours in house so we had them juiced and they would pull good. Oh to go back to an oil leak on wheels sometimes beats this new stuff.

I don't know about original frame rails from But here is a place that makes any frame rail needed. pgadams