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j hancock

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Posts posted by j hancock

  1. Maybe it is none of our business?

    After spending time on this forum as well as other forums, I have been able to "know" people and at some point you can actually meet in person and some you might never meet.

    I think it is great to hear what others are doing when it comes to trucks, helpful hints, advice, jokes, a new purchase or project.

    "Missing" members don't need to say but I quess an explanation like "I have become a professional bass fisherman and won't be on the board much" might be nice to friends still on the forum.

    Forum burnout....?

    I do miss Olive's adventure stories and HK's mechanical wisdom.

    Did the forum "change" and they don't like it?

    There was a little farm stand that had a sign out front that I used to drive by that said "If you can't stop, at least wave when you go by".

    I can be reached at:

    Jim

    Fantasy Land

    BR-549

    • Like 2
  2. I don't know what filter you have on a 330 but if it is a cartridge style, open it up and see if the number is still on the cartridge.

    For example, I have a cartridge on a Mack EN 11 209 cid and after opening saw that it was a Fram C-4 cartridge.

    Fram C-4 is 4" dia. and 5" tall crosses to NAPA 1006 or Wix 51006.

    On a larger non Mack gas engine that I had, it took a cartridge Fram C-30. 4.25" dia by about 8" tall. Which I think crosses to a Wix 51021 or NAPA 1021.

    Jim

  3. 6V53 Detroit???

    WHAT? I CAN"T HEAR YOU!!! WHAT???

    Pluses and minuses to all the options and things to consider. I like the 237/ 5 spd. idea best.

    But, damn, a 6v is a SCREAMER!

  4. Also, staying with a gas engine the gear ratio in the rear axle could probably remain depending on what it is and how you intend to use the truck.

    If you put a diesel where a gas motor had been and leave the rear axle alone, the truck will be way too slow due to the different rpm operating ranges.

    Certainly a nice truck to save!

  5. Patience will be the key to the WHOLE project!!!

    I suggested the wrench on the crank bolt as well as towing BUT it all has to be done carefully!!!

    If using the wrench and you push it to tighten (clockwise) and it doesn't go or move STOP.

    Same with pulling, put a chain on the truck and pull GENTLY by just putting a little strain against it. If nothing happens within a couple of inches, STOP!

    Glen points out about jacking the rear end and using the tire for rotating leverage to see if anything moves is a good one because there is less chance to overstress anything.

    Soaking this engine for a long time is key and being slow and steady when trying to get it to turn over.

  6. I saw a test of "rust busters" recently (cannot remember where) that compared the various rust penetrants against each other. The clear winner was a home made mix of transmission fluid and acetone or lacquer thinner. Anywhere from 50/50 all the way to 90% solvent and 10% oil worked best.

    I have heard the same thing about ATF and acetone.

    Supposed to be even better than Kroil and less money.

  7. With a big socket and bar, you can try to turn the crank balancer bolt (clockwise) after you have the engine soaking for a couple of weeks.

    Also, could have it in gear and try gently pulling the truck with another to see if there is any movement.

    Hopefully, no critters have moved into the engine through an open valve and set up housekeeping.

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