j hancock

From a 1989 brochure. Brochure indicates an axle set back of 11 inches compared to a RD model.

Jim

I don't know what they fit but there is someone trying to sell them on the internet for $255.00 ea.

The number looks to cross to Webb 66873, Meritor 53-123583-002, Gunite Gold 9036X and Centrucast 89877B if I am reading the chart correctly.

16.5 X 7 10 bolt.

if I had to guess he probably had that done at a sign shop in vinyl. He built that r-model pickup custom. It used to be a white pumper from Bolton ma. Fire dept.

It was vin R685F1001 if I recall correctly.

Shouldn't be any problem towing.

Disconnect and remove the drive shaft between the first axle and the transmission. No need and cause any damage to the transmission.

That's a wild wreck and a novel way to bring it back to the shop!

Excellent photos!

Thinking 15,000-16,000 lbs or so.

Looks excellent and having a nice big shop is a big plus!

One of these days, I would like a R model with a knuckle boom mounted behind the cab to add versatility.

I turn the computer monitor on its side....

I know exit 5 because Fleetpride is around the corner and trucks always seem to need parts.

Certainly your neighborhood is pretty country!

The red is going to make it POP!

Looks good!

Who are you?

Do we know you?

Story sounds very suspicious....

Glad you found it.

Brake fluid is a pain to clean. Use soapy water to help clean the area. Because brake fluid is hygroscopic, it will suck up the water and help the cleaning process.

Same reason a can of brake fluid should always be sealed tight because the brake fluid wants to absorb water which will ruin it over time.

Just for the heck of it, put some brake fluid into the master and see what action you might get or show the leak.

Brake fluid will dry out over time but if you just had the truck out a few days ago, something should still have some wetness to it somewhere on the system. Did you check the fluid level when it was last out?

Every so often, I have had masters get a little nick in a seal and bypass so there is fluid in the system but won't make pressure. Since your master is empty, it is not the case.

Usually for me, when the slave goes bad, the fluid leaks past the seal and out the end of the rubber boot and is real easy to spot.

Agreed!

Make a couple of phone calls to see who may want the stuff and sell it and probably make more money then scrap.

Good pics Mark.

I like the tanker with chocolate on the front. Yummmy!

That red gasser has won a couple of times!

When's the party? I need a sugar fix.

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/29797-waylon-jennings-h-67-straigh-truck/?hl=waylon

There was some discussion here. Click the link to read more.

The dealer or a truck salvage yard.

Let me guess, Boss Man Pike wants you guys to get 2.5 miles/day.

Hope it goes well with your wife.

You will be introducing her to the "other woman"!

Trailer looks sweet!!!

Yup, that grease will work or pretty much any #2 grease will do the trick. You are not going to need a ton of grease on the wheel and make a mess. Squirt some grease on the wheel and spread it around with a little piece of cardboard to cover the WHOLE flat portion of the wheel.

Your trailer isn't going to be a lot of weight but the wheel needs to be covered so the trailer doesn't steer the truck because of a "dry" spot.

I don't have any contacts in NJ, but maybe ask some local contractors who has put pintle hitch plates on their dumps, etc.

That rubber bushing could be made from a chunk of rubber or just left off when it goes back together. The pin HAS to go back in.

I asked the dealer near me one time about them and he responded with "you are kidding me, right?".

Are you on 89 or 91?

The BDR Peterbilt going by in the picture is out of Bellows Falls. The place is owned by some "car guys" and they are always working on antiques, trucks or Mopar drag cars which have run in ss/ma.