Keffer inc

What if you put square tubing under the cab and sleeper? Like a newer truck, Bet that would ride smoother than just air bags on the back of the cab.

Well, I'm a ch guy, so my opinion is likely bad, but I would measure the frame to bottom of my cab, and use the same measurement. And 3" for the boot seams ok if that's what the boot was intended for. Closer might not hurt though, 2 1/2? But I'm not at all an expert so good luck. Got any pics?

I had a leak on my evaporator inside the dash. But it sounded like it was at the expansion valve. Did a little soldiering and was good as new. Clean too since it was out of the dash for repairs.

Also, everything is clean and new on my truck except the expansion valve, but my coils inside the dash are also cold and sweating so I think everything with the ac is ok. Take your cover off and see, make sure it's not icing up.

I have the same issue, I have a sleeper on mine though. Could it just be the heat from the roof? I have a dome light off right now and it feels like the devil is hiding up there. I'm going to try insulation on my truck, like for a house. On another note, anyone else having a wiring issue with the highest setting for the fan? My orange wire has melted two switches and when I try to jump it, it smokes and has a bad plastic burning smell. (Wire insulation I assume.)

Thanks for the response, I've been away from BMT for a little while but back again. I went with the double coins, so far so good. Doing a lot of over weight containers with no problems.

Hello, In the last month, I've had three blow outs using Iron Heads (recaps). So I'm phasing those out and trying to wrap my truck with Double Coin (virgin-closed shoulders) tires. Today, I blew another cap but had to get a Diamond Back tire, (same). Tomorrow, I need yet another tire because I have a cap with a sidewall blister, I can get either tire, I think I like the Double Coins better, but whats ya'lls input?

Could still be a '99, my truck has the 1st gen dash and flat panel cab roof.

When you turn your truck on in the morning, does the "Shut Off" light come on for a second? This is the bulb check that happens when the key comes on, if it doesn't light up at all, its burned out and probably what triggered the code. Same thing on my Electronic Malfunction light, I pull it out because there is a code I can't get rid of, when I plug it back in to check codes, I get my normal 4-2 fan clutch, and then 5-5 which is "Electronic lamp fault". Hopefully an easy bulb change.

Hey everyone, I want to model my 1999 Mack CH613 SBA, I seen a resin kit I can buy that has just the hood, bumper, cab, and interior. Downside, I haven't found a mid-roof sleeper, could make one I guess. But now where should I get the frame and such? I need a donor kit? This is the first model I've attempted since I was a kit, first from scratch ever, so I don't know much.

Rand Mcnally always does dumb stuff like that to me, I almost perffer to use my TomTom again.

bad spindle?

check the fuse or breaker. maybe a bad transmission switch if the fuse is ok.

Just letting ya'll know what's going on. I replaced both the batteries and the ground circuit breaker. All works properly now. Thanks for the help

Tested that box with my positive test lead on the positive battery terminal, and with the negative test lead, tested both grounds from that box, one cable had 12.30ish volts and the next one beside it had 14 volts.

Think you're right Macktech689, Took a look at the "three batteries in one box" schematic (which is my truck) and the ground from my alternator goes to frame ground, then to engine ground, then to the ground circuit breaker, then starter and batteries. So I think that would explain my previous statement with the batteries and the step. Thanks for your in-put everyone. Will see if that works monday night when I go to Mack and get the new one put on.

Hey Dirtymilkman, how does one perform a voltage drop test in cables? Only thing I know how to do is read voltage.

Anyone know what is up on the firewall next to the starter solenoid? One of my studs are broke inside that black box. The box has two ground cables going to it (Think the're ground anyways because volt meter doesn't show and volts) ((I think its a ground circuit breaker)) I used the truck all day yesterday and today, with the head lights on. It worked right until I turned it off for fuel (no starting issues prior) and then it would only crank for the first couple seconds... then it finally fired. checked my cam position sensor plug but that wasn't the reason.. so I don't know, No electronic malfunction codes. Now that I'm home for the weekend, I'm about to disconnect the batteries to see if one drains down. Also about to pull my oil filters to check all cables near starter. But depending on what is on the fire wall, that could be my issue. Also, my temp gauge has been spiked up almost into the red, but when I turn the truck off, then "Key On, Truck Off" its in the normal operating spot. I can't find any loose or broken cables anywhere yet. **********EDITED**********************

Left it sit over night, still had 12.20 volts with the truck off, which is normal. I'm about to drive it to a shop to get the pinion seals replaced and hopefully it will bounce back to normal. I hope its not the batteries, I'm going disconnect them when I get home and see if any of them are draining down.

Ok, I replaced my alternator a couple weeks ago, today, a wire burned up inside the alternator and looks like it shorted out. I fixed the alternator and its charging 14 volts again. Now though, the battery should be charging 14 volts but it remains 12.30 volts. The funny thing, If I use my volt tester and put the positive lead on the positive terminal, with the negative lean on the step, I get 14 volts, but if I go only to the battery terminals, only 12.30. gauge in cluster reads 12 volts. Anyone know whats up?

I have the same problem too, I think my problem is the air intake for the air compressor. There is a spot rubbed through and it seems like thats my oil leak. Its a slow leak. I just had my transmission and clutch (includes the rear main seal) replaced this month, and the leaks is the same. So I would check the air supply tube for the air compressor. I'm not sure how oil is coming up and out like that if it is the case, but I otherwise can't figure it out.

Ok, thanks for correcting me.

I know I should know this anyways, but which setting re-circulates inside air from the AC? Max AC brings in fresh air from outside right?

Happy Easter Everyone! My company that I'm contracted to is looking for Owner Operators. Our terminal is located in Portsmouth, VA and we run VA, NC, MD and long hauls to WV, OH, and KY. We are looking for a local truck to possibly handle short runs, pulling and/or returning containers to port for road drivers. We are looking for other trucks that can run up to Baltimore, MD. The ad says that "You need to live in the Norfolk area" but if you live along the interstate, she can get something dedicated most likely. I've been here about a year and I love it here. The link below is our Craigslist ad, check it out and/or tell a friend. Thank You! Craigslist Posting http://norfolk.craigslist.org/trp/4963379305.html Note: The Plate program I think is $100 per week until paid for $1,400 I think.

Circuit: "J1939 Link" Failure: "Abnormal Freq.,PW or T" Not sure what it means but that's whats listed as problem in Vmack Codes. Perhaps an electrical cord is not properly plugged in all the way?