Vladislav
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Posts posted by Vladislav
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Congrats on the deal
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Thanks again for the advice.
We deal with Barry sometimes, he's a classy guy.
It looked he was being busy and re-directed me to Tracy.
He's also very good but used to be slow.
This time I found the correct seals locally (SKF) so didn't want to disturb Watts folks with no actual need.
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I like the IH and the smiling wood.
Thank you Tom.
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Glad to know you have it done.
Did you make a contact area paint test?
Gap is not what you only need to set up.
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Many thanks guys and blokes,
I just heard some times on here that some PAI stuff isn't that good.
Will try myself
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Congratulations!
You will keep memories about these days for a long long while. Hope long enough.
I too hope the new truck will keep well for so long.
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That's probably good to start so early.
Cool
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Congrats on the new look!
It shure worth the work
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If I make a cut out I'd do it at the frame rail side.
No chances to see.
This past summer I have done my two wich were very similar to your one.
Half a can of gravel inside with a couple gallons of diesel.
Hanged with a couple of straps and wobbled by hands. As many times as you can. Every about an hour during a couple of days.
Refreshing diesel from time to time. Turned out not absolutely clean but very good to be used as a diesel in the future.
Gas is another story, much more chances to get rusty.
Vlad
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Here the magic begins.
Stemco 392-9094 and SKF45099 are both what I was going to see there, 4-1/2 x 5-3/4.
But the hubs no doubt have the bores for 6.
Combined with 5-5/8 sleeves it was asking for different seals, and I figured out they exist - Timken 370025A, 380025A, SKF 46305.
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A lot of them around here. Have no ideas how they are in relation to Vision although keep solid on damn bet roads.
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Just met some parts described PAI and some Excel or PAI/Excel.
Wonder is there any matter of difference?
Haven't find the answer on the net and on PAI official site.
I'm looking for R model rear diff gear sets, hope PAI parts are good enough to work in a hobby truck.
Vlad
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Are they both gassers or one is diesel?
If you put the engine model on here it would help.
Vlad
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I have all the wheels and hubs off my 1990 MH613 removed.
The plan was to paint them and change some tires.
Having apart I found most of the bearings worn out so I ordered them and they're on a shelf now.
When I started to look for hub seals Stemco parts catalog gave me 4.5 x 5-3/4 for rears and 572/582 with 563/567 bearings in the same 38000 Mack hubs. The bearings I've got are almost these although the hub's actual measurements gave me 5-5/8 x 6. I recognized such seals but they described "for trailer hubs".
Looking the axle housing spindles I noted the sleeves pressed on with 5-5/8 OD. They seemed made with a lathe but too might be factory.
All this looks strange to me. I see no trouble to put different seals but want you to know does anybody meet such the setup?
The hubs look as common 38000's (34000's-?), there's written "Mack" on one of the spokes and "Canada" on the other.
Thanks for any input,
Vlad
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I also think the clamp nuts all over my MH's spokes are the same 1-1/4.
Got them (nuts) already painted, will look over their size tomorrow.
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The front hubs on the AC seem to me as 24's.
Were they avalible on late series AC's as an option?
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Wow.. That's the question. I must be careful talking about it although I'll try to be correct.
I had to spend some time to build up my own point of wiev on that matter because I thought to myself it was important.
First of all I should say that local media make very polar discription of facts and ALL the society follows that idea.
It's easy in general - Ukrainians got unligitive power wich started to limitate rights of Russian part of the population (about 50% on my mind and difficult to recognize who's who). Krim is ours because it was before 60's and shuld be forever. No war activity from Russian side to Ukraine NO DOUBTS about that. So... Sounds too easy and very nice. But there's a strange fact (on my mind) - why most the other world think different???
For what I know and think about: 1st - that "new" Ukrainian government WAS unligitive indeed. They were in relation to their own constitution. They forsed the president to run away and had no official power to sign up new laws. But they did. They ARE ligitive now though because they voted the new president.
Here's a good moment to step back. What was a previous to the revolution and initiated it? There was a plan to integrate Ukraine into European union. At least by some way and a little bit. At some point Russia made the offer of economical (financial) help. Talking by different words (my vision) Russia just overbet. The current Ukrainian president agreed that offer. And got out soon being risked killed. So here's a matter to think on who initiated that revolution. Looks like Russian's interest was to keep the original govnt.
Ok. When new Ukrainians govnt was busy building up their power Russia "unified" Krim. I visited Krim this past summer and spoke with locals. In general people said "we got too afraid of those new gov guy's ideas and wanted to be in the Ukraine no more". By the word they had never been too wanty to be with Ukraine. Although they didn't with Russia also and would prefere independence. Russia organized referendum (and it was shure organized and planned in some short but while before) and Krim folks voted "We want into Russia". I'm pretty shure they really did. Although we all know if any part of any country want to "go their special way" it doesn't mean they may. Were there Russian soldiers in Krim during the referendum? Shure they were. Not many at all. But we shouldn't forget there's the city of Sevastopol' in Krim - just whole Russian NAVY base. With battle ships, submarines and so on. Well enough and they were there officially.
Go further. When those South-East part of Ukraine voted for independence they didn't vote for unifying with Russia. And Russia didn't signed them up as its part. So now it's just inside Ukrainian local fight. They South-Easters weren't avalible to get independence although Ukrainian govnt at that time wasn't legitive. Saing different words it wasn't almost a country. I think there's no matter to us (to me) how it was legitive but there was started and continue the civil war.
What's Russian relation to that war? Local media say "neither". I myself think just some minor support. Why do I think so? First of all, I haven't heard of any people or people's relatives/friends invovled. I may belive there are some special army depts who provide some high tech tasks or something like that. But no war in its common kind. Any ammunition/food supply? Maybe. Why I think it's so minor in scale? Because I know Ukrainian economy and Ukrainian army were so low developed before all that so not too much needed to withstand them. Why I don't think Russia doesn't do anything supporting South-East as officials tell? Because it's in Russia's interests to keep that fight longer getting European-orientated Ukraine less powerful and keeping Ukrainian activity off Krim's question having much more important problem.
Hope you all understand it's not too easy to keep any "civil position" being a citizen of a country involved into a "not almost clean story".
Vlad
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Excellent!
I thing she wouldn't miss some love although looks very solid.
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Here's how cold it is here!
This can warm up very good
Tom, I think it would be early to drive on the lake regardless they measure the ice enough. Just say "No" to your boss
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Thank you for posting, they're pretty!
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I use to work with hypoid gears on 4x4 off road pick-ups.
Have never done them just conicals.
They might be easier although I read in some book long ago that hypoids are a kind of self-setting.
You may (and should) apply some paste or just paint to check out the contact trace, it's described in many old books, probably on the net also.
Check out a gap in between the teeth mated, must be 0.07-0.18 mm for a big car, I thing 2-3 times more for Mack would be Ok. Better to find out the correct figure. For a car people used to put a piece of newspaper in between the teeth and if they start feeling jam it's Ok.
An important thing is bearings pre-load. In car diffs there's deformed pipe you just press when turn the yoke nut up and measure resisting torque of a pinion/bearings assembly. In CRD's there's a hard pipe between the inner bearing races so you need to grind it off (on a sand paper layed on a glass for example) to increase the pre-load. If you overgrinded you need to swap it with a longer one or maybe use a hard shim. Important note - if you want to go with the turn over torque that's specified you need to check it out with bearings washed and DRY. After you put oil in them they will start turn much easier.
Thank you for the PAI parts ##.
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How do those PAI parts look perfect?
I'm also going to convert my 5.02's into 4.17.
But need both front and rear sets.
Too difficult to import heavy used stuff overseas so go for new stuff.
I can order it locally for about extra 50% if I have part ##.
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Thank you for posting.
It just makes a special feeling when see the pics of your truck purchased it new.
Yellow paint job looks nice.
Congratulations!
Vlad
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Mate that sounds nice about the same temperature all over the year.
I'm lucky having up to above 33 celsias with green grass and some days below them 33's with white
The first kind of a season is my preferance though.
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How to remove ring and pinion gears
in Driveline and Suspension
Posted
Sounds good.
They dealerships probably have too expensive dry lube...