Geoff Weeks

Yes, the K series 6-12 all used a #1. Later the big six used a SAE #2 The #2 in my picture came from an RD 450 IHC 6 as did the #1, but it was an earlier version of the same engine a RED 450 You don't see many #2 flanges anymore but is good to know they exist, because a quick look, you might think it is a common #3, then the cussing starts when you try and mount it! It seams they have dropped the #2 and just one and three are used today.

I just stumbled upon it looking for examples of SAE starter flanges. The K-7's use an SAE #1 and I have #2 and # 3 flanges as well. #2 seams to obsolete, not used any more. I was suprised to find #1 was still in common use, which make it easy. Here is my pic of the #1,#2and #3 lined up. 2 and three differ in bolt hole size and pilot ring.

Hey JoJo, when looking for something else, I came across this Leece Neville buyers guide. List several modern gear reduction starters with SAE #1 flange in 12 or 24 volt with 10 tooth pinion, as well as pertinent info on the starter. Page 42. I think you should be able to find one to fit. Also helpful to anyone looking for a new starter. Leece naville.pdf

Yeah well, we wore one to shreds, but could find no makers mark or part number, so sent to England for a replacement, imagine out chagrin to find it came from Indiana! I guess they were laughing at our expense across the pond, we were when we un packed it. All the other buses used a close coupled double cross type joint (took common U joints) but this one bus came in with that Dodge coupling. I had seen small ones on pumps but never one that big with that much power put though it. We cut a "wheelbarrow" tire and installed it to get the bus back to the barn under its own power, but needless to say it couldn't handle but the lightest touch on the throttle, Barely idled back to the barn.

One of the British buses used one between the hyd flywheel and input of the trans. 1st time I ran across one with that much Hp/torque going through it.

It really comes down to right or wrong what the officer thinks when he has you pulled over. Even if he is wrong, you are still on the hook until court. Silly stuff like the tent in the back makes no difference, You and he have to deal with what is infront of them at the time. I always tried to be sure and err on the side of caution.

You can be "not for hire" and still be commercial. Wal Mart hauling its own stuff to stores is "not for hire' but is still commercial. A truck hauling dirt is going to be looked at as commercial. Registered weight and GVW on the vehicle tag are two different things, a Motor Coach based RV my have a 32K or higher GVW but still be no CDL. How your state or even the cop that pulls your over interoperates the statue may differ. If you want to play it safe, stay under 26K or get a CDL

As an independent, I never cross at picket either. Earned the respect of the Union. In an ideal world there would be no need ever. We don't live in an ideal world. I have not worked in a union shop, but one place I worked became union after I left. I was called to a customer and came up on the picket. I got out, asked what was happening, (I was not told they were on strike when I was called) and then asked for room to turn around! I got it! Remember, the glory days after WW 2 (50's and 60's) were when we had the strongest unions in this country. I don't feel every shop HAS to be union, but some sure do.

My experiencing has been few involved with making sure the rules are followed, know the rules when it comes to non-commercial, outside the "norm". Antiques "Should" fall under the same rules as an RV. A CDL or air brake training is not required of RV owners, and there is no "weight" on the RV plate in most cases. They are considered non commerical. this is true even on large motor coach based RV's. Federal rules for CDL can vary from state rules. State rules can be stricter but must a least meet federal requirements. One thing many don't know, is if your state has adopted the fed rules for a CDL, you can "self certify" intra or interstate exempt. This means you don't have to get a physical every 2 years (or one) after your professional driving days are done. If you don't re classify yourself, if you don't get a physical, your lic will be downgraded. In Iowa, it takes a trip to the county seat to make the change. There are some states I've been told, this is not an option, I think it was AZ or NM that adopted a stricter set of rules. That said, if it is legal in your state there should be reciprocity with all states. Keeping and renewing a CDL might be a little more expensive than a "normal" llic but I think it is worth it. Getting yearly or bi annual DOT physicals is what makes most who had a CDL drop it when they retire. Normal truck plates that a weight based are so to pay the road tax to keep up the roads. That is why Antique plates on something carrying a load bring special attention. Someone hauling the antiques to a show, does it really matter that 2 or three are riding on a trailer vs being driven? Of course not. Does an antique cause more wear on the road when compared to a large Motor Coach based RV? I doubt it. The problem is too many times those charged with enforcing see "Truck" and little else. As others have said, NON-Commercial (Not just "not for hire) on the truck can help. No prize money, no someone else paying you to take their truck on your trailer to a show. I found the people at the main state office far more helpful than the satellite offices, that only know one thing and one way to register a truck.

Sometimes smaller electric driven hyd pumps used a similar coupling. All else fails, I would machine one out of Durlain (sp?) Hard nylon type stuff that is somewhat self lubing.

Never got to work on an 8, but plenty of 6LXB's in the buses. Loved that engine, slow turning and great on fuel. They were a work of art. I have a side cover with the Gardner script I was going to make into a belt buckle, and a piston from one on my "wall of shame".

The small cams, I don't know. I had a Bic cam1 that was a '78 build 400 (CPL 324?) There was also the long stroke version for a very short time 929? Cid Must had problems 'cause it didn't stick around long, Known as the super 250.

I don't know if it is still the case here, but at one time, the truck mfg had to meet total noise emitted to be allowed. They had oil pan covers to limit the noise emitted from there and foam under the hood. Most oil pan covers got removed early on, and foam under hood got loose and fell off. A 88 White I drove with an L10 had the oil pan cover, and as I say, My '92 Marmon had some still left under the hood. Most has fallen off by this point. The more they silenced the engine, the more they could emit from the exhaust, as it was a total noise reading they had to meet. quieting the exhaust came with drawbacks that silencing other noise didn't. (Back pressure)

My guess is noise reduction. My Marmon had foam on the hood. There were foam covers on oil pans to reduce noise.

That tank was off a 1983 IHC cabover.

Here are some pictures of a top tank off a core 1st pic is the top tank as it sits ontop of the rad 2nd is of a bleed hole between the top of the core to the expansion tank 3rd is a pic of the tank where it bolts onto the core, you'll note the upper hose connection passes thru the expansion tank to the upper core area. Most all of the coolant passes down through the core, but any air can pass out the little bleed hole (a very minor amount of coolant does also) the last picture is the 1" or so line that goes to the inlet side of the water pump, any coolant you add to the expansion tank enters the engine from this line. Any coolant that passes from the bleed hole returns to the block this way also. On the Big Cam engine this rad was hooked too also had a bleed from the top of the water cooled aftercooler and the engine upper waterrail. as well as one more 1/4" NPT port for a low coolant sensor.

Last time I looked, the power equipment was all leased (from Ryder IIRC) the trailers and gear they owned. I still see the CF tractor on a farm somewhere.

That is very similar to my Marmon top tank. You'll notice it is much bigger than the top of the "core", and if you look down through the filler, you'll not see the rad tubes. It is an integral de airation tank. It still can push coolant out, if overfilled. As long as it doesn't continue to force stuff out every time you run it, I wouldn't worry. I've got a few top tanks not mounted to cores, I'll see if I can get a picture to show how they work. The idea is to keep all air bubbles from mixing in the coolant and bursting on the hot metal inside the engine. By keeping the "reserve tank" on the top of the radiator and out of the main circulating coolant, the air that is in the system makes its way to that tank, keeping the main flow air free. Older radiators the cap looked right down on the top of the radiator tubes, the main flow of coolant was exposed to the air at the top of the tank and high flow would tumble and pick up some air and bring it into the engine.

Shine a light in and see if you see radiator tubes, I'd be shocked if you could. My early 80's vintage stuff all had a divided top tank, the cap is on the de airation section. Also 10 PSI sound high, most I think were 4 or7 psi, but I am used to older stuff.

WSJ is reporting Yellow "official shut down today". RIP

Most trucks of that vintage had a "de-airation" tank on the top of the radiator. The tank you fill doesn't empty directly on to the tubes of the radiator. The top tank most often drains into the suction side of the waterpump. There is a small hole or line, the vents any air in the engine or on top of the radiator tubes into the de-airation tank. A very small amount of coolant is allowed to circulate right back to the waterpump. The idea is to get all the air out of the coolant circulating within the engine and radiator. The de airation tank is also an expansion tank. There are many kinds of necks and some will not allow it to fill the tank all the way to the top so it will not puke out, other like my Marmon you can fill all the way up and it will puke a little out if you don't stop with the coolant down a little from the top. I don't know how yours is set up.

Just a thought. It would be hard to correct if it were the cause, correction, it would expensive to correct.

Oil, soot, rubber or algae, 1st you have to determine what it is, before you can guess at where it came from.

I think you said somewhere that the truck never hits top gear, Speed limited to 65 and locked out of top until 64. I have to wonder if that isn't the problem and puts too much heat into the trans. Just thinking out loud. If so that is going to be a hard thing to resolve with the current running gear.

What got me off of tube types was the quality of the tubes. They would do ok when in a tire, but store one folded on the shelf or in the side compartment, and the rubber would crack at the folds. I talked to tire shops and they saw the same thing, shelf life on a new tube was a year at best. They didn't want to stock them, because if they didn't go in a tire in a year, they had to throw them out. Tube type tires on the other hand were every bit as good as the tubeless. Super singles, you almost have to have auto inflation system or tire pressure monitor, to prevent disaster, and I've seen a auto inflation malfunction in the cold, and drain a tire! I just can't see the cost/benefit ratio working out with SS. I know some swear by them, but I see too much to go wrong. A spare tire and rim is cheap for duals and allows the same tires to fit all positions. I ran 3 treads on my tires, Original and capped twice before discard. I tried a 3 cap but they never made it until the tread wore out. Always only capped my own casings. (Not hard when you are the only one running 10.00R X20's). I tried to keep my "spare" tire a tubeless, incase it had to be replaced, or I needed more than one tire (never happened, but could). A 295/80 22.5 can run next to an 11R 22.5 and a pair can support 16,000 lbs, so unless you are running 20K fronts, and need the extra 4K, spec'ing 295/80's on the steer, allows them to be capped for drive or trailer, later in life.