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Joey Mack

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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. Joey Mack
    good call on the dye and puling the breather, I almost posted to pull the breather and pump the primer to see if you could see fuel running.. So 3 years ago, I had 2 engines at one customers co. with fuel in the oil.. the first one, was hard to find,, and the owner said,, jojo!!! re-build the damn thing.. pulled the front cover.. no leak at the plugs. upon tear down I found 2 pistons with stuck rings... the engine was getting washed by #3+#4... The second one, had a major fuel leak at the lower fuel gallery plug behind the front cover.. Both engines are still at work today..
  2. Joey Mack
    where you able to replace the outer cam drum? and able to get the 1500 ftlbs of torque on it? just curious how you got it done.. I assume you have the cam drum holding tool..
  3. Joey Mack
    ok.. good report.. the plug behind the timing cover can leak, I have seen it a few times. It is rare in my experience but possible..
  4. Joey Mack
    Bud,, I cant think of any reason why it woould push oil out of the breather,, given your postings..
  5. Joey Mack
    it is strange, I assume the breather was flushed out with brake clean and re-installed.. and you dont have leaking wheel seals? is the top of the breather missing? that will allow oil to splash out, I guess.. odd.... does that rear get really hot during the work day?
  6. Joey Mack
    Yep,,, thats what i was talking about.. and yes the noise can come from that.
  7. Joey Mack
    It can be, as far as oil level, pull the rear plug in the banjo housing and see if oil drains out. You may need to pull the side cover to inspect the top reduction..
  8. Joey Mack
    Where are you filling the rearend with oil ? And auto power divider peanuts will chatter, i bet there a 2 grooves ground into the outer cam drum in the power divider..
  9. Joey Mack
    So there arent any codes... Is the fuel hand primer leaking? Its been a while, but i have found the coupler between the tandem pump worn to a point where is was affecting fuel delivery.. but, its been so long now since i messed with MP's.. have you tried to wiggle the engine harness while its running to see if you can duplicate the issue? Still should have codes though.. has anyone been working on the back of the engine, through the dog house?
  10. Joey Mack
    Ok.. i looked at it again.. i see what your saying.. Good eye...
  11. Joey Mack
    I bet its an X-107. Look on the left side, front case near the fill plug. It should be stamped in that area..
  12. Joey Mack
    yeah, well if the swap you want is good I would think you can run it.. It's hard to give a good answer when we are not there to see it..
  13. Joey Mack
    sorry.,, I read this again, and got confused.. so the new housing wont let the turbine spin??
  14. Joey Mack
    yes, so there is the exhaust side and the compressor side, Volute is a common name for centrifugal pump housings.. No need to be an ''expert'' a good mechanic is an expert.. if the old one fits the turbo you want to use, then you may be good.. how does the compressor wheel look clearence wise compared to the old housing..?
  15. Joey Mack
    i dont know.. just swap the volutes to see if the fitment and clearence is good.. the new one uses a slip on boot and not a clamp on so yo still have some mods to do if the volute doesnt fit.. You are still in good shape, because you paid 1/3rd the price for the turbo than you could have and it is a more common turbo for E-Techs and there are guys here at BMT that would probably buy it from you if it doesnt fit right..
  16. Joey Mack
    ok... you do not have the boot style I am asking about.. dissregardit,, yours is the older style, not the newer round style..
  17. Joey Mack
    Looks like a DM sittin there,
  18. Joey Mack
    Run it...
  19. Joey Mack
    Ok. The metal on the plug is common, yes looks scary but... As far as the boot, do you have the round shifter boot that pops in the floor pan? If so, there is a second boot under it, and it can pop the shifter out of gear when you let off the throttle...
  20. Joey Mack
    are those gauges showing numbers at low idle? 625-650rpm? I see you are not at 180 degrees, what is it at 180? to me, it looks good given the current pics. 20+ at hot idle is normal for an older worked engine. 40+ going down the road is good too. I suspect 65+ on cold start up in the morning.. so long as oil changes are done in the correct interval..
  21. Joey Mack
    I just went back to the start of this thread... it's a 2000 CH-613, been wrecked,, broken tranny mount,, one thing I forgot about was the shifter inner boot, til now... any chance the inner boot is still there, and is adding to the issue? the tranny mount (rear engine mount) needs to be replaced, but if the inner boot is still there, it needs to be cut out and thrown away.. there was a svc. buletin about this, 20+ years ago..
  22. Joey Mack
    Me either...
  23. Joey Mack
    Here are 2 vin's from my old fleet. They are from late 90's E-7 RD-690 'S' models.. 083858 + 083859.. maybe you can compare yours to this,, only other thing is that these trucks had 385's on Budd wheels.. I know it is NOT exactly what you are looking for but ... who knows.
  24. Joey Mack
    i suggest you drain the oil through a large strainer or colander.. You can get a cheap one at the dollar store.. this way you can see what comes out.. hopefully just oil..
  25. Joey Mack
    Well said MarkT.. I always think of the 'little guy' the one who is trying to keep the family trucks moving, or trying to start out and needs to have a million dollars in order to earn a half a million...

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