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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. remove the pyrometer, and hold a lighter to it to check the gauge operation. no need to run the engine. jojo
  2. the override switch is a momentary switch, to stop engine shut down due to low coolant warning, and other issues that i cant remember. behind the kick panel would be the VECU and FIC module if your injection pump is a Robert Bosch with an electric governor housing. the screws should be T-27 torx and yes can be stripped. they screw into speed nuts.. drill them out and start over. there are grounds behind the cluster and near the fuse panel behind the cover on the right side dash. There is also a ground on the frame behind the left steer tire, and at the engine block in front of the starter, and on the firewall there should be a ground breaker, bolted next to the starter relay. it's all black and is only a grounder. also when you turn the key on you should hear a loud click, that is the accessory relay in the dash, its behind the center panel, make sure all of the contacts are clean and tight... that should do it... go to the kick panel last. just because... jojo
  3. look from the right side, clean the smooth slope of the carrier housing. it may be hard to see, have a can of brake clean, a rag, and a wire brush to scrub with. there should be a flat spot on the slope where the ratio is stamped. some of the stampings are dot's like from a prick punch that spell it out.. jojo
  4. i'm just curious... can the rears also be 4.42:1 ? I've alway's liked the 8LL. it' my favorite eaton tranny, of course I have only driven dump trucks about 5 year's, and I do not bring a lot of experience as a driver.. Jojo
  5. what popped in my head was a bad clutch disc, bearing in the front of the tranny, but I dont like to start out big and work my way down to a simple issue.. the issue happens in a specific range, under a light load. so then I thought something is loose and only vibrates at a certain RPM or strain.. I really enjoy posting here, but sometimes, I get caught up in it, and go on a tangent. I'm still impressed by how many people there are here, that are willing to help.. Jojo
  6. 👍 pic,s ? jojo
  7. I would think it would be,,, ' since he became President' because there are no employee's here to get hurt... 🍻 jojo
  8. I have a separate P.C. for that.. my wife put a anti virus on this one, and like many other vaccines, my P.C. got the bug.. I will re-start it later. it's working again.. This clattering issue is one that I wish I was there to see it happen... so many things could be the cause. is the hood vent and air control loose and rattling? or something else loose and vibrating? who know's? hopefully not a major issue.. jojo
  9. they used a single frame rail that is thicker. i believe its between 5/16" and 3/8".. 9mm, i think.. i know the later frames were thicker, jojo
  10. thanks, im having a little trouble with my P.C. not able to go back and read again. my issue is for another web site, jojo
  11. i was thinking about taking the belts off, and running it to see if the noise is still there. unless it only does it when driving? sorry if i missed something here.. jojo
  12. good one Mech... I have a 3/8" car brake line that i use.. it works too.. simple, cheap, and these tools work.. I was close on the crankshaft end play... It's .004"-.011"... the first pic is E-6 2 valve, the second is E-6 4 valve..jojo
  13. I will look for the crank end play spec. I think its .004"-.012"... jojo
  14. Mech... you are right...
  15. pull the valve covers and look for really sloppy rocker arm's... do you know how to rotate this engine to check each cyl. ? no offense here, just need to know.. jojo
  16. for sure on the PTO's.. There could be one staying engaged or just f'd up.. for sure.. i would expect a pto noise to increase as you rev up or drive, ... glad to see you on this one 'Mech' jojo
  17. I guess i was thinking a bout a wobbling input shaft when running. and I have seen many broken throughout bearings.. and input bearings rotating like a small football.. however, I can alway's use a little education.. it's tough to diagnose on the phone... so-to speak... jojo
  18. I understand the budget.... I'm afraid you may have to come off the hip for heads.. I wish I had more knowledge, on this. I have always been able to find heads based on application. I can only say that PAI is the best bet, because there is a good chance that 'take off' heads need work or are cracked. between the valve seats.. I hope someone posts a better post than mine. jojo
  19. ok. can you sneak a thin bar into the tranny inspection hole and see if you can move the input shaft, side to side.. have someone hold the clutch 1/2 way down, use the bar to see if the input shaft is sloppy.. heck look at the throughout bearing for excessive wear or possibly see a ring spinning on the shaft between the throughout bearing and the clutch brake, if it's still there,, I think you have a spring loaded clutch brake in that old gurl... Jojo
  20. I have had the auto power divider send a sound through the drive shaft, imitating a tranny issue. could this be what you hear? (assuming you have an auto power divider)? jojo
  21. i feel the same as D-Day. some other valve is passing air.. I'm gonna sit back and watch... dont want to put a wrench in the works,,, jojo
  22. Now its tax season, and I have to study the new laws ( i mean rules for taxpayers).. Im curious about the new tax credit that was raised from around $16,000.00 too about $21,000.00 for single non- parents. It may be a good idea, I wont know until i read the rule book.. but really, my thoughts are? who's going to pay taxes, when we, who pay taxes, will be forced to use govt. programs because we have been taxed right out of normal living. ? I dont know, having a moment I guess.... jojo
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