Joey Mack

is it manual or auto shift? if it's a manual its probably an FRO 16 210C Metric.. the synchros grind during the range shift... if so, easy fix and not expensive.. make sure you replace both snap rings on the range fork shift rail.. and the drive hub on the main shaft coming out of the main box.. of course make sure the bearings are clean and re-useable.. if not, pull the tranny and send it to a re-builder.. jojo

1-4 should be ambient air temp 4-1 should be vss, speed sensor in the tranny output shaft.. correct me if i'm wrong... jojo

Can anyone tell me why we are advertising 'Turkish air lines ' on our mind sculpting T.V.'s??

you need to use a long 8mmx1.25 tap coated with grease to cut threads into the old cup then use a slide hammer to remove it. any loose threads that fall into the cylinder are expected to be burned up and spit out. there are 2 long wire brushes and a long stemed tool that accept's rollloc' brisstlebrush to clean the bores. there are also plastic cups to put in the injector bores to keep any debris including bristtles from the brushes from getting into the fuel galleries.. my point is... if you have not studied this procedure and do not have the tools to do it right.... you need to stop! do I need to continue with the whole procedure to remove/ and re-install the cam, and then the valve adjustment procedure? Jojo

yes you do... if you have copper cup's, the new kit will come with conicle cups and the injectors will have conicle seats.. do you have the Swagging tool to remove and install the cups? jojo

I like the challenge of driving backwards.. it takes skill and attention to ALL of youre surroundings.. I bet I can still get in a Mack and back it in... anyway, i'm just reminiscing... jojo

I remember back in 2000,, i had only been driving 2 years+,, I was driving a '79 R model with a 12 speed, and I also drove a '98 RD with an 18spd... I was so proud as a new driver, to be trusted with these machines.. We were doing a "Target Store " pre-load and service road... We had to back down the service road with our loads, and , no sh!t.. I payed close attention to backing, and could push those dump trailers all the way down that curvy dirt path, with little to no pull up's.. I was really proud of myself. to this day I always try to back into tight spots whenever I can. at that time I was leaving to go work at Maine Mack as "Mechanic".. one of the owners said that he was going to miss me, because, with my limited driving expereince, he said I was one hell of a driver... I left that full time job with my head held high. I decided to drive for them on my days off from Mack. Mostly what I did was site work, driving a 'yuke' truck/ cat wagon, and some small dozers and roller's.. I was very proud back then... I guess my point is... are the newbies proud of the incredible responsibility that they hold? Class 'A' means more than just the endorsement on the Driver's liscence... jojo

it certainly was a cool maneuver. If my Schneider driver trainer saw me scuff those trailer tires I would have been written up.. regardless if I docked right without hitting the other truck or anything else.. I love it... jojo

I wouldnt worry too much about giving away secrets on how to drive... "Driving" is/has been dumbed down for years.... So the tricks of the trade will likely fall on deaf ears.. Unless there's an 'app' they can put on their phone's... jojo

I'm curious too.. I just put a harness on an MP-8, and it was over 1500.00.. I did 1 Etech and 2 ASET's last year and I think they were around $1300.00... jojo

Here is the part number for the top oil feed system.. the drilling procedure is VERY IMPORTANT. if you 'miss', the Jake head is junk.. Jojo

255324911112 Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing. Here is a listing on E-Bay.. $75.00 OBO.. If you dont buy it, I will.... Jojo

I just went to my shop library.. My 2 midliner books do not have the info for youre issue. however, if you can find Mack book # ML526S, that may be the book you need.. good luck, jojo

Like Glenn said, Hook shop air to it, at the discharge hose off the compressor and try to find the leak, no need to run the engine and make noise. this way you can listen good to find the leak/s.. jojo

all good.. I have responded to a few old post's in the past, and probably will again... Jojo

I really thought NEO's post was current... ooop's... Dumb me.. jojo

I was wondering if youre Midliner has a steel pipe coming from the air compressor output/disscharge port.. Its been a while since I worked on one of those neat little cabovers.. if you have a metal pipe it may be clogged with carbon.. pics would be cool.... jojo

How about taking the dash panel off and following it from the gauge to where it goes through the firewall, my best guess is it goes to one of the buss bars on the top left corner of the firewall.. there should be 2 wires at the sending unit, one is a ground... jojo

Hey bud, 6-4 is a communication code for the 1939 line... it's the yellow and green 'twisted pair'.. check the pin condition and tension at the VECU, and at the Diagnostic port, under the dash above the clutch pedal.. check voltage at these 2 pins,, low side is about 2.5 volts and high line is about 5+ volts... I dont remember the exact volts but im pretty close.. there is also a triangular duetch plug on the firewall along with the many harness's near where the steering shaft comes out of the wall.. I know you said you can kick the panel and it changes the truck.. so maybe you missed something during inspection.. jojo

If he has Jacob's 690 head, the lash was changed to .021".. From .017" after a top oil feed update was done and the reset screws in the bridges were replaced with the 'Armoly' screws, and the check valve under the jake head was removed and replaced with the little screw in check valve. If these are not done then lash is .017" .. even after all of these updates, the engine brake still sucked, just not as bad. next: If you have "powerleash" you will see the celenoids are clamped directly into the rocker shaft's. they are sealed by 2 orings and the bail's that hold them in is 'it' usually a bad oring will cause the engine brake to operate all the time, however, it wouldnt hurt to check them, the bottom oring will stay in the hole, so you will have to pick it out. with this engine brake set up, the lash adjustment is different than for the 690 heads. Please post which engine brake you have. I assume Jacob's because of youre issue.. jojo P.S. correct bridge clearence adjustment and valve adjustment is really important. you may have pinless intake bridges, so no adjustment needed there..

Thank you to all that tried to help... I found a manifold.. Jojo

one thing that was done that I really like, is that they added a 3rd bolt inside the carrier housing.. jojo

Ricky... you may want to stay in touch on this one.. If the engine and driveline is solid and the frame is right.... It is one of the last real trucks left.. like I said before... I never owned a fleet, just repaired them.. there will be a very smart person here that will school you right.. good luck Ricky... jojo

I am reluctant to speak harshly, however.. yes.. as you know, one wrong move and the valvetrain rattles.. It's over... The truth for me is this... 20+ years ago when I was new and ambitious, I did a cam job on an ASET... Keep in mind, I had already done a bunch of valve adjustments and E-Tech cam's prior..... I rolled the engine up on #1... ran the rack.... cranked it up.. ran like crap and miss fired.. My heart fell into my stomach... I ran the rack starting on #6, not #1.. I went to my boss and told the truth about my F-up... he said "fix it' and dont do it again... 10 hr's later, I put new lifters in it and it purred like a Dog... A hard lesson, but..... It helped make me who I am today... My 2 cent's... jojo

the plastic side cover is real,,, thanks to Volvo.... jojo