Joey Mack

I'm grabbing at straws.. This one is hard for me, without being there.. I'm sorry.. I would ask if there is an adverse condition on the road/terrain, that may be causing an issue, also, did you ever have speed sensor codes.. I know you said no stored codes, but didnt say when they were cleared last.. Keep us posted,, jojo

Check the front engine mounts under the stantion. See if the rubber has disintegrated. Also look behind the balancer to see if the 18mm bolts are loose. I doubt they are, but...

Since you have the pump off. Leave the filter on it tight, and put an air tool nipple in the inlet of the pump, and plug the other end, and pressurize the pump with 70psi. And see if it leaks around the shaft seal.. please wear a face shield when doing this.. jojo

Coolant shutdown, is delayed, I figured because it flashes the mil light. For some reason, I can't really think of a cause for this yet.. front cover flexis a good thought.

Is this an Australian spec. Truck? Just curious.. do you have stored codes. Any codes for the throttle pedal? I'm at a loss right now, sorry...

Is this in a CH/CX?

Low coolant, off the sensor when facing up hill?

200 kpa converts to 29 PSI.. that's pretty good.. I don't recall a boost sensor on that engine, or a waste gate turbo.. what else was done to the engine recently.

Did the code go away?

The post is 10 years old.. I suggest starting one of your own. Add the year and model. Many guys will see it better..

I totaly understand your statement about working it, rather than working on it... AMEN...

''A Drunk Man's Word's,, are a Sober Man's Thought's'' Just sayin'..

Still awesome!! Is it ok if I copy you?

I learned many years ago..... Don't F@#k with a creature that can bleed for 5 days, and Not Die..... Just saying..

Thats pretty cool.. I noticed the rear stand is narrow, and yet the engine ran smooth enough to not tip over, Impressive.. I have an E-Tech in my shop right now, but hope to finish the E-6 later this year..

Cheer's Mate 🍻

Bob, My thought's on what you said is this.. All of you old timers, and guys like me that have knowledge, have knowledge about Pre-Volvo Macks.. There are a lot of topics about MP engines and M-Drive tranny's and electronic's issues.. Most of us are Mechanical guys, and may get lost about the Volvo Infection that happened to MACK. I know I do, and I worked on these POS's for 5 years... I am happy to lose all of the knowledge I have gained on MP's.. anyway.. I will stop here... I'm good at sidetracking... jojo

The main box is not synchronized, the back box is.. its a 9 spd. box with a 2 spd. splitter, 'if you will'.. your biggest ''Girly Dick'' fan... Jojo

Paul,, I was taught to double clutch, and I'm pretty good at it.. I take a lot of crap because I double clutch.. I dont care.. anyway, Mack trannys are not as smooth as Eaton's. The splitter doesnt require double clutching, just flip the button and, off + on with the throttle, and away you go.. Since I am not a full time driver with decades of full time driving, I reluctantly make comments on how to shift.. As a Mechanic for decades, I have opinions, I have seen a lot of chewed of trannys and drivelines.. I am quite sure you will drive this tranny like a pro.. I hope im still 'on-track'

I like the 'Sidetracking'.. It's like were all sittin at a bar shootin the Sh!t.. So far I havent seen a post from the originator saying,,, ''Cut-it-out!''..

Hey Mech?? MrsMackPaul has a topic that needs a 'sidetrack'.. if your interested..

I forgot to tell you.. make up a fitting with a shut off valve. you will lose some fuel when you install the fitting assembly. so you will need to crack the valve open and pump the fuel primer until fuel comes out of the valve. This ensures that fuel is in the galleries.. then proceed with the rest of the setup.. the port is 1/4'' NPT.. you can screw an air tool nipple into the valve so you can put pressure to it.

Just use one of the rear plugs. the pressure will travel through the EUP's and fuel lines. Be sure to remove the fuel line that comes from the tanks and goes to the input of the primary filter. Then plug the port in the filter pad. That will keep the air pressure in the engine and not going back to the tank. leave the fuel pump assembled and pull it back out of the block a half inch or so, so you can see if it is dripping with pressure.. I suggest the rear plug because, when you spill fuel at the front plugs, you won't be fooled in to thinking you found the leak.. the rear plugs do not go into the oil..

So far I will stay on 'topic'.. Adkat, you make me laugh.. and your right too... I can sidetrack anything lately.. OK.. as far as the E-Tech in question.. Adkat, You said it right, in my opinion.. Yes to PAI parts, I have built 7 Mack engines so far, with PAI parts, and they run good, and fitment is 'spot-on'. The engine kits have twice as many parts and gaskets as the Mack kits.. for half the price.. The Mack tranny's are very strong, Good maintenance of the oil, air valves and shift cyl. o-rings, will allow the synchro to last a lot longer.. Yes, very expensive to fix compared to an Eaton.. How'my doin' Adkat ? 🍻

IGV... mat I suggest you pick one of the rear plugs. It takes a 1/4'' dr. ratchet to remove the plug.. I suggest a breaker bar to loosen it, because it may be tight enough to break the little ratchet. Here is a picture of the E-Tech supplement book.