Joey Mack

I have 1 suggestion for when you put the head back on...... find some 5/8'' threaded rod and cut 2-4 pieces long enough to stick above the heads to use as guide bolts.. Head gaskets arent cheap and since you had to 'snake' it out, you will have to snake it back in.. there are 2 small 1/4'' deck dowels that stick up a 1/4''. if they are good and round, leave them alone. If you have to remove them you can use a claw hammer. place a small piece of sheet metal on the deck for protection, and place the claw end on it. Then gently drive the hammer into the pin with another hammer and pry the pin out.. they do not require a lot of force.. the pins are in stock at Mack.. Jojo

1st.... Stop using Ether.. does it start back up after it runs for a bit? Have you pumped the hand primer before starting it to see if you have fuel pressure in the galleries? Have either the cam or crank sensor been touched before this issue? No Ether.....

''fix what you know is broke'' pop test the injectors, that is if anyone has the tool and the knowledge, I usually remove the fuel lines to inspect the ends for a groove worn into it from the injector and the injection pump.. I use 320-400 grit emory cloth to dress the ends up, and blow them out with brake cleaner. the straw for the brake cleaner works good to get that done.

Around 30 lbft.. they are shouldered, and stop when seated..

https://www.raneystruckparts.com/

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwiguZLE1NeBAxUU-cgKHdL9BhEYABAMGgJxdQ&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1OmoBhDXARIsAAAYGSGNZuJ5DDj3YZ3AgsTV145MImirivEegB41m-75A3sdDd_huUUX8g4aAi0mEALw_wcB&sig=AOD64_28HURLyhALT3-uAdVEHTxW2UPT-w&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwip-ofE1NeBAxWtElkFHeQ8CfkQwg8oAHoECAUQJg&adurl=

Raineys truck parts has one for $125.00

Have you tried to look for it at a site that sells P.A.I. parts?

Yep.. I have checked d the new pin inside the old bushing for fitment. On rare occasions I had to leave them alone.. not the best procedure ..

Hook shop air to the truck. Then remove the spaghetti lines at the transmission, that control range shifting, and. Flip the range button a few times to see if good air pressure comes out. You are checking for blockages here, as well as checking the shift knobs ability to deliver. Air... with all lines hooked up, you should here the range clutch slam into both ranges.. if not, keep checking for air delivery issues... there is a shuttle valve on top of the trans, that controls the range shift...

Yes.. I have had to remove the rear hanger before, in order to replace the bushing.. it can be several hours of work, due to battery boxes and mud flap mounts, and so-on..

Thanks,,, Mean Green....

Yeah..... I will Keep my KB.. You crack me up TJC... I am curious where he is in N.C.

I guess Bidenomics is working... I'm watching the Pat's/ Cowboy's game.. Ford has an ad showing the ''All Electric F-150, back feeding the big a$$ house during an outage.. And the lights came on.... OHhhh Boy!! lights??? Good luck turning anything else on, and what if you have to drive your one vehicle to the store,, then what?? I swear the people who write Ad's,,, have NEVER been without, and dont even know what calloused hands are.. TOO FUNNY...

there sure is a lot of nice lookin' rigs.....

N.C./M.D./ or M.A. ??

Thanks, I agree.. I should buy more parts to put on the shelf.. I have a top end kit for a 4cyl. Studabaker.. however I dont have a Studabaker..

Geoff,, I thank you for that.. I would like to give you 'first refusal'.. My engine runs strong and only weeps a little oil on the left side in little spots. Go get 'em !!

TJC ?? You do know that 'Today's' paint scheme is a Rainbow... Nahhhhh... Just kidding.. Light Green it is.....

I'm leaning towards a light green. Im not a pro painter, but i will prime it and carefully spray paint it with enamel paint. For now, I will paint the intake and exhaust with flat wood stove paint. I'm really glad I have a blasting cabinet now.. It is going to help me do really clean work..

Geoff,, I was thinking about painting the engine block Green, or even a redish/orange. the brackets will be black, and the air cleaner black and silver.. What is the original engine color? Mine is both green and orange-ish.. Jojo

For sure... I'd hate to be in a dump truck when they are that worn.. Just sayin....

Thanks again Geoff.. For now, I will leave the manifolds alone. I tried to find the gaskets but not sure if I found the right ones. they dont leak right now, but may start too when i drive it and get it heated up. I already plan to make my own gaskets. I have made many, and I have a punch kit to make clean bolt holes.

As far as the wiring goes.. I did pull the harness in one piece. I have aquired a lot of new wire from my city job. It is top quality, a little heavy for the need, but will work. I was going to run it cleanly in black loom. I know it wont be ''correct'' but it will work and it will be clean and neat.. Thanks again for commenting.. Jojo