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mechohaulic

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Everything posted by mechohaulic

  1. every new class of graduates from the academy are instructed on the"finer points of ticket giving" . CT needs the money!!!!to waste. they will know the difference in 38's or 44's.most of the members here might not have been around when the triaxles came into play. third axles were put on short wheel based dumps etc , what a night mare. so DOT started with axle weights not gross. an ole timer i knew (had open heart surgery )driving for his son to help out, was pulled over and put on the portable scales. truck was over on axle Not gross. inspector would'nt let the son go into the body to shovel the load around. remark was " driver is responsible. hell of a verbal argument that day. CONNECTICUT sucks
  2. do you have to have "not for hire" or transit plates to cross state lines. or will it have the DOT numbers on it
  3. i would think there will be a few items to consider ; 1- what it will cost $$ to buy it back;2- how many miles on it;3- how many miles do you plan on putting on it?4- has it been parked for yrs ? buy back for memories or to run. might be the jerkiness is from sticking fuel linkage ( they do have fuel linkage on those new trucks or maybe all electronic ). definatly soak the brake pedal alot. have seen many that use a punch and hammer , next thing you know the alum ears on the mount are broke.
  4. in my situation, the left ear doesn't work at all, laying on creeper welding a rear end housing. spark was dead on going in the ear. that's a saturday. do you think on Sunday when this Polak went back to finish so unit was ready monday am i would have put ear plugs or something in the ear!!! NOPE, shot number two same spot. the burn crinkling feeling. at this point, i would need the old fashion horn from old record player for the left ear LOL😄
  5. in response to the statement " i'm no expert"it's not always what a person knows that's important but their willingness to learn more. after 50 yrs of wrench pushing,i've learned more on this forum than i could have ever imagined.
  6. the screwdriver method also works and has been done. the heater hose works a tad better for being under neath on a creeper or leaning over a wheel searching for that pain in a-- noise/ air leak
  7. sure hope you (we) get a reply. don't think it's connecticut. the field in the back ground looks way too big.this post has my wife concerned reguards to my mental stability; i have a magnifier and my phone taking a picture of first post trying to enlarge the door to read location. too blurry.
  8. i would never recommend running under rated. as stated above check with state laws. then there is the common sense factor. with a little bit of common sense a person can do more with less (38's)then someone having more (44's).you the only driver or others going to be behind the wheel and hammer it. if i was told back in the '70's a triaxle dump has air bag suspension ; answer would have been "no way" you need 55's. times change
  9. the whole purpose of the vibration damper on front of crank is to account for "mismatched" pistons and rods. an earlier text stated it's not a vibration; it's a clatter, that's the challenge to this problem. vibration damper do go bad; specially when some one takes a hammer to them trying to remove one. sure hope we are informed of the solution if one is found.
  10. mentally i've been hanging out at the clutch dept since the get go of this topic,seems to be source of clatter . parts in clutch subject to different pressure under changing loads you were in the right with the bar up to pilot shaft. as stated earlier; not being there to try things which are automatic reactions challenge. truck running on blocks, 1- was the clutch partially engaged looking for change in clatter 2-does the truck shift correctly,3 -what was difference with clatter from on blocks to road trial 4- is there a way to put a video on this forum so we can hear the clatter?
  11. i keep going back to original post trying to search for clues. if it were the fan hub kicking in or out 12-16 rpms wouldn't be as important as temp; which would explain light vs heavy load. but the noise came while truck was up on blocks. couldn't have gotten to temp. a set of mismatched belts slapping won't make it to the cab. running down mental list of all external parts ; can'tbe he was walking around unit while it was running on blocks and the noise was heard. any engine related issues would not make a difference in gear or not.
  12. frustrating isn't it. you want to help , but can't . loose and vibrating wouldn't be so specific at one rpm range or load/no load. we all know the out come... cause is located we will all say " why didn't i think of that!!LOL almost want to hop in my vehicle and drive there for physical diagnostic check.this forum is fun to watch a vehicle built, or help with an electrical issue . intermittent noise had me staring at the ceiling 3 am today. brain racking.
  13. fronts are budd the complaint states noise sounds to be from belhousing area. i do agree with loose wedges ; i've seen it happen. to be that looose the tire would spin on the hub though
  14. i forgot to say one end of hose to your ear other end use it to follow where the noise sounds to be coming from. noise will definately get louder . the hose technic helps eliminate surrounding noise.
  15. i'll bet you didn't try the "heater hose technic" you and others will have a good laugh . take a length of heater hose ; 1 in x 2-3 ft long worked for me. i know today they make fancy stethoscopes . hose to your best ear and follow under neath till you close in on the noise. that noise isn't bad, frustrating and making me scratch my head is ::why did i say I DO twice!!!LOL
  16. keep in mind these questions might sound simple ; it's a challenge not being there . are you by yourself listening or are you doing the walk around while someone else does the fuel pedal/ brake application? what happens with 1200-1600 rpms and No brake pedal. trying to narrow down possiblities. went from a maybe clutch/ driveline to engine . have been there done that on site frustrations with noise or vibrations. the distant diagnostic has many more options
  17. a worn power divider will send a noise through the driveshaft tube into the trans with out causing a vibration. did you try jacking up one side ;;chock blocks and every possible safety feature. put unit in gear slowly bring up the rpms with LIGHT pressure on brake to put resistance on drive line?
  18. depending on PTO set up , as earlier stated light load less engine noise /more free float gears, heavy load more fuel== more engine noise & less backlash. if it were an engaged pto i would think there would be an over heat smell from hot pto
  19. also we don't know if when truck is at stand still reving up to 1200-1600. is the driver keeping his foot on clutch pedal or neutral and pedal up ?? "but doctor i don't feel good" -- what hurts---- I don't know but it hurts 😄
  20. agree 110%. see and physically hear make a better diagnostic determination. still good to try and be helpful not to mention keep the ole brain cells active...LOL i'd be interested in the PTO set ups.
  21. just a thought Joey; if it were the clutch brake or pilot bearing the noise would be there parked and running 1600 rpm's . should'nt make a difference with load weight ?? that's why i thought more toward gears moving or PTO malfunction. ????
  22. if it were the older style spicer clutch they would clatter while you stepped on pedal. no noise parked with 1600 rpms would indicate trans counter shafts aren't moving 100%. under light load ( possibly even bob-tail) has light load on drive train allowing for free style back lash. under HD load the drivetrain is tight under load ; no back lash. far as the PTO question; ! -1 == one of them not engaged ( that was brought up in another text), 2== have you checked back-lash in the PTO's? if they or at least one is a side mount under light load moving the drive gear would be turning. rear mount hyd shouldn't be that noisy.
  23. picture looks to show a winch . does this unit have a PTO?
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