JoeH

If you're doing the heads yourself, DONT SWT THEM DOWN "RIGHT SIDE UP"! The injector nozzles stick down into the combustion chamber, you'll crush the tips! Either set them down on cribbing or set them down on their side.

Never heard of the 901 part of it.

He is working on an E7 mechanical, not sure if the heads are the same as the E7 ETECH engines. Do the older E7's have this exhaust stud issue too?

Not sure what the E6901 is. Is this an E6 engine? Or an endt675/6 engine? The ENDT engines use plastic fuel return leak off lines that jump from injector to injector and then run back down to the injection pump/fuel return I believe. These lines get brittle and crack eventually, and 99 times out of 100 I'd bet this is the cause for draining off fuel when sitting. Easy enough to buy a coil of this stuff from your Mack dealer and replace any that are damp.

Not level to the ground or not level to the hood assembly? Ground would be frame twist/uneven spring packs I'd expect, and to the hood assembly I'd be out of my league.

On the ETECH motors I think I've heard that the lower exhaust manifold bolts are open to the pushrod passageways, so you can get oil coming through the stud threads. Probably not part of the issue, but maybe?

Up the idle speed to 650 rpms where it belongs. Should just be a screw stopper on the fuel pump that the throttle lever stops against. Micro switch for the engine brake may block your view of it.

How's the frame on the truck? If the frame is rust jacking bad and doesn't have much life then is it worth the fuss other than dumping oil in? I have a 1995 e7-350, 24k hours. I have noticed on my truck that if I shut it off and give it 5 minutes it'll be a gallon low. If I come back in the AM it'll be at full. Sometimes the truck will "load up" on oil while idling and blow a smelly blue haze, but most of the time it runs clean. Mine also developed some fatigue cracks in the oil pan at the corners. New pan was $2,000, came with pin holes for gasket tabs to push through. Of course the dealer gave me the old style cork gasket, and i didnt know about the rubber gasket so I welded the holes shut... What's your engine idle rpm? Over time the setting can dip, and then you aren't idling fast enough to keep the rings sealed well enough on combustion.

So far since the last update we've replaced the steering gearbox, pitman arm and drag link because the insurance company recommended we replace them Incase there's any cracks from collision. We've replaced a few brackets on the passenger side that got damaged: rear cab mount frame bracket, and the V bracket that holds the cab tilt piston. Also replaced the driver side hinge bracket as it got bent in the accident. Need to drop off the cutoff's radiator somewhere in Ambler, PA that can pressure check it. I know my old radiator had a weep from before the accident, so now is as good a time as any to replace it. Both cabs are in the garage so I can swap guts and weld up the floor that salt rotted out on the new cab.

And the dump body looks nice, you might be able to find a buyer for it for a few thousand. Help offset the purchase price.

I will say you'll love working on this truck. I love working on our MR688. You tilt the cab forward and EVERYTHING is right there! Front of engine, back of engine, sides of engine.... Transmission? Once again, everything is right there. You can put an A Frame over it to lower trans out.

With 38k springs I'll guess it's a single frame, former tractor.

Just double check if it's a single frame or double,and see how bad the rust jacking is if it's a double. Always the possibility that the frame is cracked and failing.

Is this a short term get you back to the shop or can the truck be left like this and run indefinitely? I don't have one of these engines, I'm just curious.

What was CCRS?

Good luck! Any clue who he sold it to? Any local old timers maybe recall the truck/buyer?

My coldest is probably shortly after high school, zipping up and down the highway at 80 mph when it was +14F degrees out. I had cabin fever and needed to get outside! 1976 Honda cb750. Good bike, still have it but doesn't run at the moment.

Unfamiliar with the MH cabovers, but we have a 2003 MR688S with a 20k steer axle and we drive it 10 below the speed limit, potholes HURT. Bridge approaches are sketchy on the highway, you don't realize how uneven they are until you're sitting just in front of the steer axle at 65 mph. The next one you'll be doing 40.or at least that's how it is in our truck!

Sounds like you know enough about them already. Not sure what parts you think you'll need, the only real differences from what you have now are just sheet metal. Double check the basic items like cab mount bushings, treadle valve, and I bet you'll find a lot of similarities to the R models. Turns out the U model used the same frame rails as the R model. We stole a frame rail off our U to patch into our '79 R, fit like a glove. Mack used a lot of stuff on multiple models.

Runs and drives, no brakes.

Namely, the frame being a single frame and not having rust jacking is a big selling point in my eyes. A cab can be found I expect.

Looks like a single frame, and while the cab floor is rotted out it could be a great foundation for a restoration. "Brakes don't work" it's got rotochambers. Swap those out for some 30/30's. I'd consider paying 2500 for that if I wanted a B to restore. But seller would need to explain that "1 of 3" BS.

There's a long straight hill near me that frequently turns into a sheet of ice during snow storms. Before you go down it you slow down so you can make sure its not blocked off by people getting stuck coming up. One car will get stuck halfway up, the next car that comes up will try to go around them and get stuck at the same point, the next guy coming up will try to go around both of them by using the shoulder, and get stuck at the same spot. Before you know it you've got 5 cars across blocking the whole road. Meanwhile my dodge 2500 cruises right up it at 45mph with the plow off the ground. My single axle Ford L8000 salt truck I have to lock the rear axle and use my momentum to carry me up the hill, but I'm empty and headed to get loaded when I hit that hill, so I have no weight to speak of. One of the perks of the whole "green" movement is they've made cars lighter and lighter. Which makes them worse in the snow.

Yea the one we did the major framework on 2 years ago is the truck that went into the ditch. 😭