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Full Floater

Bulldog
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Everything posted by Full Floater

  1. I'm totally unsure at this point. Have not pulled the hubs off this one, yet.
  2. Anyone know the oil grade they require? I would guess probably 80w-90 but i'd like to go 75w-140, just wanna make sure I don't bugger this thing up by doing that
  3. They can sure bring a man to almost tears. I have a White Western star that is almost as bad. Also swapped that to a 39MT on the Big Cam Cum-a-part which made install easier
  4. Thank you. Yup im hoping it will turn out well. It's a 23k rating which is exactly what I need for the application it's going into. And im just fine with spring suspension. It's fairly low mileage and feels tight
  5. Finally getting around to uploading a pic. This is the 39MT in a Western (narrow frame) 1975. Don't mind the mess, the truck's being resurrected from the dead
  6. Ya im not into the additional stresses on the engine, BUT......I would be interested to see if a compound turbo setup could be tuned to drastically reduce that thick Mack exhaust smoke on upshifting/acceleration
  7. Yeah they are rare here to. Everyone tells me to put an Eaton and air susp in this truck im building but I would MUCH rather run this Mack single drive rear just cause it's something different. And being Mack, probably better. Im hoping.
  8. Hi. Im working on a single axle R with a RAD529C and a CRD1171 Carrier. Do we like these axles? Is there anything to look out for in regards to problems? According to the build sheet and some info I found online, the CRD1171 is some sort of power divider. How does that work in a single axle? Thanks
  9. If anyone has a fiberglass Lund style visor and willing to ship to BC canada, please let me know.
  10. Thank you for the detailed response. Would YOU go thru a conversion from pos to neg ground, if you were in my shoes?
  11. Thank you for your response. I think I might go ahead and convert one of mine that im working on.
  12. I'm starting work on resurrecting a 75 R model. I believe 75 was one of the last years of positive ground on them. Most of the electrical is functioning well aside from a few things that aren't working. I was wondering what all I would have to do to convert to neg ground, just for the simplicity of things. OR should I just leave it alone? Is there truth to the myth of pos ground vehicles rusting/corroding less then neg ground? This truck is pretty clean for rust and corrosion so im wondering if pos ground had something to do with it.
  13. Got the 39MT in. Will get a pic later today. Much easier to handle then the 40 or 42MT. Probably still have to remove one of the oil filters for install (which I already had out) but so what. It spins the engine over plenty fast. The truck has also lost it's prime, so had to do some long cranking and it did just fine. This truck is positive ground so I did bypass the neg ground solenoid that was on the 39mt and wired the trigger wire to an existing solenoid already on the truck for the old starter.
  14. Did you have to do anything else to the truck besides the volt meter and alternator?
  15. Seems like they all have weak governor springs at this stage of the game and it's really hard to maintain a smooth light acceleration without the rpms hunting up and down at low rpms. It's one of the few things I don't like about Mack engines. I think there is a band aid shim kit or something out there that can tighten up the gov springs but I have yet to embark on that
  16. Sounds good. I will order one tomorrow and will report back with fitment results. This particular truck is a positive ground truck. Haven't decided if im going to convert to Neg ground now or later. I do believe starters don't care about polarity, just the relay does. I have used the 39mt's on everything from 466 IH to 855 Cummins and they seemed to hold up well. Even with the stubborn 855's on a cold morning
  17. Is anyone running a delco-remy 39mt on Mack 675's? I run them on other engines and they have been great and they are smaller and lighter, making them easier to install remove. I have a 1975 235 that needs a starter, I think im going to try the 39mt instead of the 42mt. At the very least it will be an easier install.
  18. Are the valves adjusted to spec?
  19. This engine is a "B" family which I think represented Dynatard capability, but not sure.
  20. And slightly off topic, but not really. I imagine that a Dynatard set up transfer from engine to engine to? Both 675s
  21. Thanks for all the input fellas. Also, on the engine that I am removing the jakes from. It's a running engine, it just won't be leaving the yard anymore as it's not road worthy. So i'd like to have it as a runner still after the jake heads are removed. Im assuming this will be straight forward or would anything have been modified or changed on the engine to accept the jake heads?
  22. Im in B.C Canada and looking for 1 or 2 R model visors, preferably located in the pacific northwest as shipping prices seem to have gone thru the roof. Thanks
  23. I have a complete and functioning set of Jakes on a 675 that is in a truck that's no longer going to be on the road. I'd like to take the jake setup and install on another 675 engine with nothing on it, not even a dynatard. Im assuming there will be some orings that I will need to replace? Are those something that's available from Jacobs? Is there anything else (aside from valve cover gaskets) that I will be needing before I tear into it?
  24. I will soon attempt to contact Mack to see if this kit can still be had, if I find it; I will report back with a part number.
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