steve s.

No, Rvandemark, I don't want to sell my B61. I spent about 17 years restoring it, and this is the first year that I have been able to drive it around to truck shows. I'm having a lot of fun with it. You probably wouldn't want it anyway, I shortened the frame and made a single axle out of it. There was a guy from Ohio who used to be on this site who had another Campbell B61 from the same order as mine. My truck was the first one, and his was the last of 9 they bought at the time. He went by Toller. he was using it a a dump truck, for farm work, I think. There was a Campbell B61 sold at auction in April 2024. It was a lot like mine. It went cheap. You might be able to track it down. Here is a link to the auction: 1966 Mack B61. Diesel, This truck will start and run, drives, builds pressures, do need to high gear stall to shut it off. There is No Title and will sell with the Auction sales receipt only. For those old skool truck guys this could be the one. Plan to stop and see for yourself what could be your next restoration project. - Hash Auctions Here is a photo of mine, and the one in the auction. Good luck in your search.

I have never seen any factory looking part that filled those holes. I used a building construction product called Zip Tape to keep the water out on my truck. It is about 4" wide, very sticky, and weatherproof. My frame and springs are black and the tape is too, so it made for a fast fix. The tape will hold paint if you need a different color.

The H63 did have a higher floor on the passenger side, lower on the driver side. No dog house. The engine was not mounted on a slant but it was mounted lower in the frame rails than something like a B model. Working on the injection pump could be a real knuckle buster. There were quite a few different H models, from H 60 to H 81, including an H 65.

Mack serial numbers usually started at 1000, so you have a very early model. Unless something was different in the earliest days of the B model, the serial number will be on the side of the frame rail, passenger side, between the front axle and the rear spring hanger for the front axle. In this picture the yellow area is the serial number.

Soldering radiators became a lot easier and more successful for me when I began to use a small hand held sandblaster like this one -Zendex Tool - SpeedBlaster Portable Media Blaster in Red - Handheld Sand Blaster Gun Kit for Air Compressor - Extended Use Fast and Powerful Sandblasting Gun - Amazon.com It does a great job of getting the tubes really clean , which is the secret to having your solder stay where you want it. If you can solder your tubes shut, you don't need a radiator shop.

The parking brake lever in the photo came off a 1961 B613SX with a Quadruplex.

Here is a photo of what I took off a Quadruplex. The mounting holes are about 3-3/4" center to center (one end has oval slots). It bolts to the housing of the compound shifter. It may be the same brake lever as what you have. There is no separate bracket between the brake lever and the transmission top cover, but you may need one with your Duplex.

I have a hand brake setup that I removed from a Quadruplex. I think it may be what you are looking for, but I will have to find where it is in my cluttered garage. I will get back to you.

You are really asking a lot here. Over the 40 year time span you ask about, Mack made literally dozens of different transmissions. The number of speeds each transmission had just begins to tell the story. There were multiple gearboxes within each series of transmission, and often different series of transmissions offered in each truck model.

Glenn Akers often said that every time the injection pump came off the engine it needed to b re-timed. Are you going to have the pump redone and set up for 2100 rpm? or leave it as it is?

To fix my leaks I used a MIG welder. My tank had a bunch of tiny leaks under the tank straps. Of course the tank was off the truck and empty. I ran compressed air through the tank for a few minutes first. None of the small short welds made enough heat to do any harm. I kept putting air to into the tank after each spot was welded and eventually I found all of the pinholes and welded them up.

Sorry Larry, I don't have any information on your serial number. The Mack Museum could probably tell you more.

E- Mack diesel engine. T- trubocharged. A-single stage aftercooler. Z-maximum 10 grams per bhp/hr emissions level. Certified in California 1975-1976. 673- approximate engine displacement. C- variation of the basic engine unit, or(obsolete) emissions standard. Your engine was rated at 295 HP and governed at 1800 rpm. If there was a B in the engine number it would indicate a Dynatard engine brake.

The first question is what transmission do you have? Next question is which lever gets stuck in high? The H has no linkage for the shifters, just very long shift levers. Are your shift levers worn and sloppy?

Matt, that was me who spoke to you in Macungie. Your truck turned out great. All of your time and effort paid off in a big way. We are glad you were able to make it to the show and that your trip went well. We would be happy to have your "follow up" story on the B73 in Double Clutch. I recall that your B42 was a feature story in DC years ago, too. Steve