steve s.

If you could at least offer the leftover parts for sale here, it might help to keep another old Mack running and that would be a good thing.

The reason you don't use 5th gear with the compound in low is because that gear ratio is the same or very close to the ratio in 4th gear with the compound in high. There would be no reason to shift to that gear (5th lo), it would be about the same ratio. There are several gear ratios like that in many of the Triplex and Quadruplex transmissions also. There are gears there, and there might be a time when you would use them, but it would not be part of your normal shifting sequence. I find the Quadruplex is nicer to drive than the Duplex, because of how you shift; you use the compound more, and the shift lever is closer to the driver. There is nothing wrong with wanting to have a 20 speed transmission. It's your truck, have fun with it. you might not use Lo Split in the compound much, but it is very handy in tight spots or backing up.

Flywheel housing sizes are standardized. If your flywheel housings are both the same size, the Quadruplex should bolt up where the 9 speed was. Here is a link to help explain the SAE sizes: Sae PDF | PDF | Technology & Engineering Keep in mind that the Quadruplex is longer, and may not clear the crossmember at the back of the cab.

In case you haven't already put things back together, I would strongly suggest that you put the vent window in first. It might be possible to put it in after, but I bet it wouldn't be fun.

Clark Brothers still sell a lot of cables for your speedometer or tach. Their prices have gone way up like everything else. I often get their parts NOS on ebay. Here is a link to Clark Brothers catalog: Unknown I hope that works. I do not know anyone who restores push-pull cables, but I have some old Mack cables that might be of help if you don't mind used parts.

1961 B613SX parts truck for sale. It was a heavy tandem dump, now just a cab and chassis. I used it for parts to restore a B61. No engine or transmission. Very decent triple frame. 12,000 lb front axle, SWD68 50,000 lb rear bogie. 7.49 ratio. 22" Dayton Wheels. Cab and fenders could be restored or at least used for patches on your B. $500.00 Title available at extra cost. Have lots of other B model parts also. Located 20 miles north of Scranton PA. Call 570-two 2 two-4478. Steve

With all due respect, the truck is newer than 1951. I would guess it is more like a 53 or 54. Not that it matters much. The gasketed windshield, set back axle, and low mount headlights are giveaways. If you knew the serial number ( on a plate on the dash) we could nail down the year better. Would you happen to know what the engine is? Where is the truck located? Can't beat the price.

No, Rvandemark, I don't want to sell my B61. I spent about 17 years restoring it, and this is the first year that I have been able to drive it around to truck shows. I'm having a lot of fun with it. You probably wouldn't want it anyway, I shortened the frame and made a single axle out of it. There was a guy from Ohio who used to be on this site who had another Campbell B61 from the same order as mine. My truck was the first one, and his was the last of 9 they bought at the time. He went by Toller. he was using it a a dump truck, for farm work, I think. There was a Campbell B61 sold at auction in April 2024. It was a lot like mine. It went cheap. You might be able to track it down. Here is a link to the auction: 1966 Mack B61. Diesel, This truck will start and run, drives, builds pressures, do need to high gear stall to shut it off. There is No Title and will sell with the Auction sales receipt only. For those old skool truck guys this could be the one. Plan to stop and see for yourself what could be your next restoration project. - Hash Auctions Here is a photo of mine, and the one in the auction. Good luck in your search.

I have never seen any factory looking part that filled those holes. I used a building construction product called Zip Tape to keep the water out on my truck. It is about 4" wide, very sticky, and weatherproof. My frame and springs are black and the tape is too, so it made for a fast fix. The tape will hold paint if you need a different color.

The H63 did have a higher floor on the passenger side, lower on the driver side. No dog house. The engine was not mounted on a slant but it was mounted lower in the frame rails than something like a B model. Working on the injection pump could be a real knuckle buster. There were quite a few different H models, from H 60 to H 81, including an H 65.

Mack serial numbers usually started at 1000, so you have a very early model. Unless something was different in the earliest days of the B model, the serial number will be on the side of the frame rail, passenger side, between the front axle and the rear spring hanger for the front axle. In this picture the yellow area is the serial number.

Soldering radiators became a lot easier and more successful for me when I began to use a small hand held sandblaster like this one -Zendex Tool - SpeedBlaster Portable Media Blaster in Red - Handheld Sand Blaster Gun Kit for Air Compressor - Extended Use Fast and Powerful Sandblasting Gun - Amazon.com It does a great job of getting the tubes really clean , which is the secret to having your solder stay where you want it. If you can solder your tubes shut, you don't need a radiator shop.

The parking brake lever in the photo came off a 1961 B613SX with a Quadruplex.

Here is a photo of what I took off a Quadruplex. The mounting holes are about 3-3/4" center to center (one end has oval slots). It bolts to the housing of the compound shifter. It may be the same brake lever as what you have. There is no separate bracket between the brake lever and the transmission top cover, but you may need one with your Duplex.

I have a hand brake setup that I removed from a Quadruplex. I think it may be what you are looking for, but I will have to find where it is in my cluttered garage. I will get back to you.