steeler

I'm.pretty sure I know the answer to this question but I've got D12 with copper cups, the extractor bit broke off on the cup. Has anybody successfully removed a copper cup with the conical cup puller? That's the only way I can see myself having any chance of getting it out without pulling the head. This sucks! Pulled 3 of them with no problem, other than they were extra tight it seemed. I don't know why but the bit just snapped off!

If I were getting a harness I would go new. I'm not sure you could find a good one from a scrap yard, those seem to get chopped when they remove other components.

Didn't come on at key on? If that's the case change the bulb and get the blink code off the dash.

I had a feeling. Looks like you are pulling heads.

I can get that in the morning for ya.

Your 2511 code is for the output speed sensor on the rear of the transmission.

I was thinking it was fuse 30 or 31, but I'm digging WAY back in the memory bank. I use to pull those fuses while cranking to check compression.

You would normally see a fault code if you have broken or shorted eup wires. I've seen a few have chafed wiring where you describe, but all had faults. Those harnesses are actually pretty solid, much more so than the MP engines for sure! This is smelling more and more of a valve train issue.

That slot faces the passenger side. There is a pin in the block that rides in that slot. If the pin breaks, the roller can turn sideways which will destroy the roller and the camshaft.

Does it miss when up to temp as well?

So you have replaced the#1 unit pump and injector and still missing in number 1? No fault codes for unit pump? Can you feel the pulse in the injection line in number one? As far as the rocker, make sure you loosen the 2 rocker stand bolts when you torque the rocker shaft down or it will break the bolts/shaft again. How about the valve adjustment in number 1? Nothing wacky going on there? I've seen the pins break in the engine brake plunger and cause a miss, but usually it will only miss after the engine brake is activated and a short period thereafter until the oil has time to bleed out. If you have no electrical issue causing the unit pump to not fire, then you are down to a compression issue. You could always swap the rocker front to rear to eliminate an issue there.

Lol!! Hey I'm confident enough in my abilities that I can admit when I screw up. It happens to all of us. I try not to let it happen often, but occasionally it will. The trick is getting the best outcome and not costing the company too much money lol. I have a pretty good idea in my head of what that cam tool looked like afterwards!

And I felt stupid after the first one. I've seen 3, 2 of them were Le's and the other a CV. I work at a rather small shop too. Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket!

Always! Been working on Macks for 26 years and always come here for tips. If I can save someone else a headache that I went thru fixing something all the better.

Gray engines with Bendix compressor. All 3 I've seen have had a hole from where they had ingested something. The first one got me good, I had tried everything to fix it, was a high mileage engine so I inframed it before I found the issue lol. That was a little tricky trying to explain to the customer why he needed a new compressor. Edit...I should add that the hole I found in the piston was on the first one. I didn't bother with pulling the compressor head on the other 2 because I knew what was going on after my first experience

Another thing to check is the air compressor. I've seen 3 of these with a hole in one of the air compressor pistons. Everything appears great till you put load on the engine and your boost pressure dumps thru the hole right into the crank case. Easy way to tell us to blow shop air into the compressor intake, with the oil fill cap removed and feel for air blowing out.

I changed number 1 and 2 injectors and cups. That appears to have fixed it!

I believe 2214 is saying the transmission isn't reading engine speed? Do you have any engine faults? Electronic malfunction light on dash lit up?

You'll have to have tech tool to do a reset.

2008 MP7 start it up, runs ok but after it warms up a few minutes will start slowly developing a miss, then eventually all throw codes for #1 and #2 injectors with an fmi 5'. Kinda strange to me that this 2 injectors shut off at the exact same time. New engine harness and tried a different ecu. Any other ideas besides replacing the 2 injectors?

Late to the party, but I was going to suggest the pump. I had one doing the same. Glad you got it fixed!

Cracked head? If you have coolant exiting the turbo, more than likely you have coolant entering a cylinder. If not from the egr cooler, could be a head problem. Pull the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system and you should see where it's coming from. I've got an mp7 I'm rebuilding now for a leaking liner. It washed out one cylinder, but obviously I didn't have coolant in the exhaust.

The one on the side is for the temp gauge. The one in the rear is for the ecu, which controls the fan. I believe he only has the one temp sensor in the rear on an 05 though. So the fan is only partially engaging? Do you have good air pressure to the solenoid?

Yes those compressors suck balls! Went ahead and did the egr cooler while the head was off, it was pretty clogged. She's all fixed now. I hate that I pulled a damn head for an air compressor problem. Damn. Oh well I know for the next one.

Well, I ended up pulling the cups, didn't see anything so went on and pulled the head, sent it out to be checked. It all checked ok. Put it back together, same problem! Turns out you can't eliminate the air compressor the way I've always done with older (real) macks. I removed the main air line from the compressor and problem goes away. Shoot air into the compressor at main air line and have bubbles in the coolant tank Air compressor replacement time, yay!