mrsmackpaul

36 minutes ago, RS Disposal said:

I think when it comes time to do the radiator I will take it into a local shop that does heavy truck radiators.  I don't have the expertise or tools to do the soldering of this brass radiator

I am the same, I don't bother trying to do anything myself with a radiator unless Im broken down somewhere 

Last R model radiator cost 5 grand Australian to get recored

Yeah it's a lot of coin but nothing compared to the cost of a motor 

Paul 

White smoke to me is either timing or air in the fuel

People smarter than will have better answers 

Did you have the cam out or timing changed

Maybe something has come loose and shifted 

Paul 

Compressor???

Does it suck from the intake ?

If you can maintain 1800 revs on a climb your not over loading it at all

Guessing as you suggested, it might be time to rod the radiator out

A dipstick from a automatic transmission works well, no sharp edges

Paul 

Great stuff, I think the secret now is to use it as things seem to give a lot less trouble when used often

Paul 

11 hours ago, Brocky said:

Paul can probably elaborate on me, BUT the Australian "Out Back", where the flying doctors operate has a lot of ROOM!!!!!!  The Flying Doctors operate in rural areas and small town where there is not that much vehicular traffic. And the people on the roads have been educated to expect such happenings. I am assuming the picture Paul posted may be a news shot in relation to an accident on the highway??? 

We only live 3 1/2 - 4 hours from a capital city

If I hit the road at 4am I might pass a car every 1/2  hour  to hour

Head north a bit into Western NSW and even during the day I wont pass a vehicle in 1/2 hour or more

Into western QLD and it's even fewer 

Now if I head west or into even more remote country during summer I can drive all day and pass maybe 1 other vehicle 

The Nulabor plain were this photo is taken the traffic is a lot busier and yet it still isn't flat out 

The Nulabor was fully sealed in the 70s and highway number 1 the goes right around Australia in the 80s

So maybe think about this 

The Nulabor has the longest straight stretch of rail line and road in the world

100 plus miles with out a bend so its pretty easy to see traffic and Australians are pretty good at taking charge of things like this without officials 

Paul 

I collected parts for many years before reckoning I had enough to tackle my bucket of bolts 

Paul 

I didn't see the old new out or the new in, slept thru the lot

Bucketing down rain sideways again at the moment 

Miss Molly is sheltering in the bath room and masive thunderstorms

A very interesting start to the day it all this year

Paul 

Don't think it would of been, Macks big corporate HQ in the capital cities look like that 

I have driven past Champions plenty of times but never stopped for a look

I would feel a bit embarrassed to pop in for a sticky nose

Paul 

Just the R model with the steel front

Legend has that when the fiberglass bonnet was available Mack Australia couldn't sell them, not tough enough is what Australians thought 

Well one thing lead to another and the once famous road train operator Noel Buntine was waiting on a new truck but no bonnets or mud guards were in Australia 

Cyril Anderson tried to talk him into a fiberglass bonnet and Noel was sceptical to take one

Apparently Noel was given axe handle and told to see just how tough fiberglass was

Turned out fiberglass was really tough and the bonnet lasted, when other Australian operators saw that Buntines that did a huge amount of off road work were buying these fangled fiberglass bonnets then others started buying them

I dunno when the last Flinstone was sold to a owner operator but Im guessing in the 70s

They look like they are from the stone age compared to the fiberglass bonnet 

As a complete side note, Australia had complete fiberglass cabs for the R and the F model for a short time as well because they couldn't get cabs out here quick enough so made the locally 

The extra 3 inches in a R model was first added to fiberglass cabs to give a smooth interior and exterior

Paul

If link works it works, if it doesn't let me know

📸 Watch this video on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/share/v/jtdtJPxBSJce991k/?mibextid=adzO7l

Paul 

Progress, no matter how big or small the steps are is progress 

Something crossed off the list 

Well done

Paul 

A tipturbine motor is about 17 psi max

Pyro only gets up there on big looooooong pulls, not steep hills but big gentle pulls for many miles

Or at least thats my experience 

Paul

Bugger me, that's a bit of a issue

Is it double railed or jist fatigued 

A lot of people build a shed first in Australia and fit a couple of baus out like a house to live in while the house is built

They call these a shouse, half shed half house

But I  guess what ever you come up with will be fine

Paul

I dunno if the same research was done in the fuel crisis of the 70's in the U.S. as was done in Australia 

But with out a doubt the single biggest factor for fuel economy was speed

There were graphs and charts and all types of things

To go from 55 - 65 took nearly twice the power just to overcome wind resistance 

So I wonder just how fuel efficient trucks of today would be driven at 55

50 - 55 was little change

Under 50 wind resistance made little difference 

Personally I find it much easier on me to drive a little slower, a lot more time to react to things and Im not on edge watching the speed and the cops and well trying to pass people all the time

And I always see the same vehicle's along the road that broke sound barrier passing me

Paul

Sounds like you have a air leak in the supply side but when the motor isn't running it is getting siphoned back up the return to tank side

This allows it to run for a few moments before it dies from no fuel

Paul

Yes Joey, the same deal, it really is my go to problem solving fluid lol

Paul 

Either a air leak or blockage

Paul

4 hours ago, Vladislav said:

Why not to swap to fiberglass hood and paint it? 

I dont think that can happen, the cowls are different shaped, the Flinstone look becomes quite appealing the longer your with them

Fiberglass is just same same after awhile 

Paul 

320 coolpower, even pulling a road train at max load it is never worse tuan 4.5 MPG

Running along empty with the float on is 7 plus, single trailer fully loaded is 6 - 6.5 MPG

Speed and wind resistance are the killers, no faster than 60 MPH for good economy, thats why in the fuel crisis days of the 70s the limit in the U.S. was 55 MPH I believe and a little bit slower here

Paul 

7 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

would think it has a slider 5th wheel, easy check would be move wheel one way or other. post was put up on Thursday with unit going to mechanic Friday (yesterday); hope  this has a follow up. noticed on many post placed on BMT  forums  NOT MANY update on  results . 

I have never seen a 5th wheel that slides in Australia 

I have me a feeling they are not allowed out here for what ever reason 

Swishman will know more than me about this stuff

But yes if the 5th wheel can be slid then forget my long winded drawn out procedure and put the scales back in the kitchen for the cook 

Paul

20 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

As far as pulling the dry liners out of the 673..  I ran beads of weld inside the liners, and when they cooled, i was able to pull them with my liner puller..

I'm very late to the party here 

Only thing to be careful of with running beads of weld to pull liners is the crank

If the crank is still in the block and a booger from the welding gets stuck on the crank it can become costly 

This is normal only a issue on a inframe build 

Cut some thin tin the same width as the journal and wrap it around and a hose clamp

You can then hook in pretty confident it will all be good 

I remember looking at Vlads photos some years ago with the from a Lanova motor in a normal workshop press, block was nearly as big as the press and I  seam to recall took all press effort to push the liners home

Some maybe dry ice for dry liners and the electric blanket off the spare bed on the block for a day or so might make the job much easier putting the new sleeves back in

Anyways,  this is not gunna be a in frame rebuild as the motors well and truly out of the frame now

Paul 

It doesn't have to be very far forward of the center,  maybe only a inch or so

It depends on the local laws a weight limits on axles

Should be a full load on the steer when you have full weight on the drives

This will vary on wheel base and laws etc

You should be able to get it pretty much spot on first go

Weigh just the steer axle no load

Weigh just the drives no load

Get some old style kitchen scales and a piece of say 2 x 1 wood long enough to measure your wheel base at scale you choose, maybe 1 inch equals 1 foot

Then two kitchen scales, something like this

Maybe use a 1 - 200 scale as in

1 pound on the scales equals 200 pounds in the real world

One scale is drive axle center the other is steer axle

Put the 2 x 1 on top with scaled wheel base to match the measurements on the stick and center these marks in the middle of each scale

Load these up to match the tare weight

From the gross weight your allowed to carry you subtract the tare

Scale this weight to the same ratio as tare weight

Then place this on the stick and move it along until the weight is in the ratio from steer to drive axles

This is your king pin location 

This was how things were done before computers and trucks run at maximum weight

By doing this you can't over load the steer but always have plenty of weight to make the truck handle properly 

Paul 

I guess a lot of the younger blokes on here would of never heard of this bloke and his brother and their films

Don't worry I hadn't either, dunno that his stuff ever made to Australia before the internet 

I quite enjoyed this, good old fashioned comedy and they laugh at them selves, something really umheard of today

Good clean fun

It goes on a bit but well worth the effort

Sure is some beautiful country side and a history lesson to boot

Happy days everyone 

Paul