mrsmackpaul

things you need to check are

phase angle which is the relation ship between drive shafts assuming there is more than one drive shaft between between front diff and gear box when you look down the drive shaft the uni cross's between the two shafts should not be in a straight line the rear shaft should be one splined notch behind the front shaft in the oppiset direction of travel for the pto shaft other wise you will get torrsional vibration between the two shafts

the other thing to check is the vertical angle of all the uni crosses must be exactly the same other wise the unis accelerate deaccelerate at different speeds which will cause the same problem as described

both of these problems will not be picked up by balancing the drive shafts as the shafts are not out of balance but will cause the annoying vibration you mention and are both caused by lack of properly trained mechanics they just no that computer says do this and thats what they do so it must be right that is the modern world though

here is a link thingo for the second problem that describes it much better than me

http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html/drive_shaft_harmonics.php

will have to dig out picture of the first problem I spoke about had quick look on google only found the second and most common problem hope this is of some help

Paul

Paper Back Hero chick flick type of thing with R600 as one of the stars all the way thru

Paul

Gudday all the pressure regulator Im talking about is on the top of the box some 12 speeds have 1 regulator some have 2 depends on I dont know someone much smarter than me can proberly tell you this one is set at 65 psi and the regulator is before the gear stick selector if it is set to high you will hear air leaking out all the time even with good seals good luck and keep us informed seeya

Paul

check the air pressure regulator on the box I think it is meant to be around 45 -55 psi

Paul

I have been sitting in these since Monday.....

Wrong "animal" under the non-existent hood, but wicked none the less

Waiting to get on the plate at the pit in Paris and I saw this out my window.

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Scaled out, and parked.....wanted more pics . Really nice guy, but the wind wouldn't let up enough for us to chat.

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gotta luv this its enough to put a horn on a jelly fish

Paul

Hit wrong button,didn't get to finish.

All Maxidynes were painted gold until Mack had to quit using the gold engine paint in late '79 but continued with the gold dog signifying Maxidyne power until '81 when the Econodyne engines began production. Then all Macks had chrome dogs again until the Elite package CH and CL trucks had gold dogs again,roughly '93 or so. Then about a year or so later Mack brought back the gold dog to signify an all Mack pedigree drivetrain and continues to do so .

to my understanding I am probebly wrong only Mack Maxidynes had gold dogs in Australia and only for the first few years of the Maxidyne run just show something different. My 81 R model has all Mack running gear with a Maxidyne motor but no gold dogs as most dont here at all except for the later model CH onwards I think

Paul

And if you blokes over there are after more good truck songs try this

thats easy " I'm married to my Bull Dog Mack " by Slim Dusty

now we all have read how much you blokes liked the Australian value liner now you can bye your own Aussie Mack brand new I'll even let you park it at my place wile you get shipping organised back to the states or some other spot in the world

Paul

25 years here in Australia that went quick or Im just getting old

lads I only use one and have air start to start with works a treat can even start with no battery just need a pen to push the air soliniod

Paul

well the 12 speed is the best tranny I have ever driven had trouble splitting into low once crap built up inside the gears on the low range side takes a bit to pull it all apart but cleaned it all out ran as good as new if it is only in one gear I have no answer if it is on all gears maybe the air ram on the box lid or the regulator is out of adjustment and not enough pressure ??

Paul

ps I never use the clutch for splitting gears didnt no I was meant to

well I have been waiting for all sorts of advice but not much has happened so heres what I do

roadranger I just change down through high range using engine brake if any fitted and leave it in high range until stopped just push the clutch in near the end

the Mack 12 speed I just leave it in high split or low split and change down with engine brake working dynatard not that it does much if it is a heavy load ie over 60 ton I would split each down to 3 rd and then change down full gears

was told once it is cheaper to wear out brakes than rebuild gearboxs but it all depends how fast your trying to slow down if some clown has cut in front well there mighten be much time for this fancey down shifting I guess what Im trying to say is each time you stop it is completley different

Paul

Mack Australia and Kato were owned by the same company Great Western Group I believe someone feel free to correct me on that GWG also owned Mazda Australia Leader trucks Bertlit trucks and a whole host of other things

Paul

mate I just got mine from Mack Laverton in Melbourne I wouldnt do it again I would just go through my local fuel injection man next time as the blokes at Mack dont seem to no bugger all about older trucks and dont seem to care either .They ( Mack ) gave me the number for the bloke that they get to do the pump and he seemed ok to me to talk to after the fact .Mack told me the pump was the problem I changed the pump over and it made no difference well that was a waste of $5500.00 then they didnt want no me so I spoke to my local man he came and had a look and the problem was found very quickly all he works on is tractor's trucks and 4x4's wish I had have called him first live and learn I guess good luck might have to say what part of this wide brown land your in for some pointers

Paul

I will have to say an 88 superliner, best year..... Cause well they were made in my year! just superliner a in general and non of that Aussie new superliner either

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

88 I'm feeling bloody old !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Paul

need to let engine revs drop about 800 revs between gears when going up and raise them about 800 going down through the gears you will probably never need deep reduction so just leave it in direct watch the tacho to start with it will become a piece of cake fairly quickly good luck

Paul

came across this a while ago if you like Macks working hard this should fit the bill hope it works after the big intro

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ia0b_WLajo

seeya

Paul

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My goodness I've seen some clowns in my time but well this would have to take the cake I just cant believe that even after old mate flanges getting up the ramps and tries to put it on its side the fella trying to pull it on the trailer still goes like a bull at a gate and in front of everyone to with the company shirts on it will do wonders for there reputation yep and as above has been stated could have backed it on could have pulled it on with the chain could have tried so many other ways but what would I know

Paul

easy my old mrsmack R 600 320 coolpower 12 speed 58000lb rated to 115ton and will pull all with more than that not bad for something 33 years old

Paul

If you are going to use compressed air always fill with water first as the explosive pressure will be greatly reduced ie theres a lot less to expand really quickly if it was to go bang let us know how you go removing dents as I have tanks that have the same type of dents seeya

Paul

mate had the same thing on my 320 coolpower and it needed the heads done up then it idled perfect but I think this was the exception rather than the norm a compression test will soon tell the difference the normal cause is the governer is warn out I had changed my injector pump but it made no change then I had to start looking further hope this is of some help

seeya

Paul

does it start fine ???