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mrsmackpaul

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Everything posted by mrsmackpaul

  1. Thinking there's a lot of confusion here The bigger the brake chamber the slower it responds as more air has to shift for the rod to travel the same distance However the trade off is the increase in diameter means the force is a lot greater Paul
  2. That would be my plan as well I would know any of the mistakes made are my mistakes not some else's And if I put something a bit dodgy back in I know what it is Good luck with it Paul
  3. Yep pull the rest of the liners, I would but I dunno my ass from elbow Lets try and think what has caused this, crook installation of liners ? Maybe some water was in there and froze ? Maybe some cheap ass liners from Chindia or somewhere No matter, if it happened to one liner there's a fair chance the rest could be the same You can have no destructive crack testing done pretty easy and cheap and you'll know for sure Pretty unlucky for this to happen but also pretty lucky to find it this early when everything is clean and easy to undo Paul
  4. Dunno about seeing more when removing guards or guards getting in the way Very occasionally, maybe one or two percent of the jobs I do I remove the guard but it always goes straight back on Check out my youtube channel if you dont believe me, lots and lots of unexciting grinding going on amd all with the guards on Anyway, am wishing you a speedy recovery Paul
  5. I would go even lower (80 - 90) , with out knowing your business I doubt your running a hundred miles to tip the load off As long as the tyres dont kiss when your on a pavedroad moving quick I reckon you'll be fine 110 is what most people that I know run on long distance type of trucks Never known anypne to run 120, most shop compressors dont go that high Paul
  6. Well I'm at a loss, another bloke ruined and never to be the same 🤣 Well done you two, have fun and enjoy life to it's fullest Paul
  7. Have never had this happen, was the guard off the grinder or something like that ? I have noticed on American youtube channels they all have the guards off the angle grinders Anyway your on the mend now and thats the main thing Paul
  8. Dunno what half of this mumbo jumbo is all about I have never had all this drama, 24s on the front, 30s on the rear Always smaller cans on the front than the rear so when your running bobtail and jump on the anchors real quick the back doesnt over take the front But as Swishman sez, watta eye no Paul
  9. "Oh Mr Hart, you've done it again" Sorry mate that wont been bugger all unless your an Australian Pro Hart was a artist in Australia and they had TV adds for him years ago Looks good to me, would provide plenty of enjoyment for all those that can see it https://youtu.be/8qb4n8yc2so Paul
  10. I will second this, I have never had a failure with PAI parts, I can not say the same with sadly I will search for PAI injector lines for a E6 as I just dont have faith in the new Mack ones Paul
  11. From the udder side of the world, I know nothing about these air dryers but experience tells me that whether it is the middle of summer and over 100 in the shade every day or freezing the bahjeebers off I get water out the tanks when I drain them If I'm up in the tropics in the wet I pull the drains and let the water out every time I pull up and theres heaps of water Would these new fangled dryers stop this and give me clean dry air ? These threads are interesting to people from the other side of the world were air dryers werent the norm Paul
  12. I watched a German movie over the last few days made in Yanky land I dont speak German but could still follow along Cool R 700 in it quite a bit, long sleek and black Paul
  13. No, well not in Australia, they were Thermodyne and rated at 320 hp We call them a 320 coolpower Apparently 2 valve or 4 valve although I only know of 2 valves 350 later on with series intercooling and they were the last if the coolpowers 285 Maxidyne was a coolpower, 300 Maxidyne was a series intercooled Maxidyne And these were all E6 motors Paul
  14. I reckon most blokes make up a simple adaptor to attach a grease nipple (zerk for you lot 🤣) to the hole the brake line attaches to Then plug your normal grease gun on and pump away and it soon forces the piston out Way more pressure than you'll ever put on with a puller On a normal wheel cylinder to stop the free piston from just popping out you chuck it in a vice and put a large over size socket on the end your still trying to get out so it has room to move Or so Im lead to believe Paul
  15. What people find with wheel cylinders and the like in Australia is even if the bung a new set on they rust up with such a small amount of use and thats why the sleeve them It is uncommon for hobbie restorer type of people to stainless sleeve brand new wheel cylinders to make things so much more reliable If it was me I would just get it done to the old ones and they would out last me then So much more fun driving them when you want to rather than fixing them again and again Paul
  16. Most people in Australia get stainless sleeves put in them on hobbie trucks and cars etc, it stops this ever happening again and isnt costly Paul
  17. So Ricky, whats Gee Oh, are cruising on a well cushioned fun bag yet ? Paul
  18. Good luck and let us all know how you do Paul
  19. As long as your all safe and sound Last big cyclone (same as a hurricane but spins the other way) I was Yasi and I ended in hospital Apparently we dont bounce as well as we get older lol Stay safe over there Paul
  20. If you squint your eyes real tight and get in there real close you should be able to read it Paul
  21. As Joey has said, super easy Okay here is my observations of many air ride R models I have never had to change shockers, I have always found that the linkage between the ride height valve and the cab isnt strong enough and must slowly over time bend thru normal use If I disconnect the linkage and operate the valve until I have 1 1/2 - 2 inches between the rubber stop and the bottom of the cab it sits on the ride is improved to level of comfort a Mack owner can only dream of The little air bag should be sitting reasonably stout but not fully extended Lift the little arm up and down, fully extend the air bag, the fully collapse it This will give you a good indication of were you want it to sit and the clearance available So once you have established this bend the linkage to suit, however the trick is to have it just a tad higher than were you want so any slack in the valve linkages and the valve and the connecting rod are taken up Now the lecture, dont waste your time undoing and trying to adjust the ends like most knob jockeys do at the start, remember this was the correct setting when it left the factory and has slowly bent And there wont be enough thread to get the extra length needed Then sit back and just glide along on a cushion of air, oh yeah baby it will be like a whole new truck SUPER SMOOTH NOW BABY......... Anyway this is what I have found Paul
  22. Definitely never seen one of these And as for power divider that was mentioned back at the beginning I can see a housing that looks a bit like one there but as to how it would on a single drive ?? No idea at all My first thoughts were a bit like LSD but I cant see how that would work f from the housing out the front The banjo housing looks a little like a normal top mount Mack housing turned 90 degrees No idea if that is the case I assume that it is double reduction ? Paul
  23. I first watched one fathers day years ago now Saw a Mack bulletin at Mack Townsville one day, that was maybe a year or two before seeing the film Reckon I read the print off the pages I did share the scans of the pages here back then Had a quick search for them but no luck at this stage Paul
  24. Not really that amazing, my Dad always said, "if it is crook, it's crook from the top down" Another example is "lead by example" I was a dairy farmer for many years, we weren't left a family farm and had no experience beem a dairy farmer They (the dept of agg) had farm walks on local farms and the farmers took turn hosting these The farm walks were called "Target Ten", get 10% more profitable for 10 10 years in a row I had little to no experience been a dairy farmer but I made some observations very early on that I still use today I observed that we (dairy farmers as whole) had all pretty much the same thing, we had cows, land, pasture, a dairy to milk our cows, irrigation water and so on However some farmers really appeared to make it work and others always had the ass out of their pants It was all in the detail, the small stuff, the way it's done and not what you have And the recipey used last month, last year to make it work is very different than the one that might be used next month, next season It wasn't just finding a formula that works and sticking with it, it's in the detail and constantly fine tuning it Obviously this Hansen had a very good eye for the little details that made a huge difference Or that other saying, "watch the penny's and the pounds will watch them selves" Paul
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