Lmackattack

Yep I just pulled my 2v heads off about a month ago. Replaced the head gaskets and cleaned up the mating surfaces. Total cost was less than $100 in parts. Great help from people here.

https://youtu.be/WLYYPPEpJNA?si=aNrdX5jOmOGj8e_U

A CF686 denotes a 285 maxidyne. my truck is a RS786 with the same engine. A 300+ would be a CF612 Also a 285 hp usually had a 5 or 6 speed transmission as it was a high torque rise. where the 300+ needed minimum of 8 gears due to its shorter powerband

Not yet. Been busy. I will report back soon

My memory is fuzzy but I know the axle tubes from b models to R models are definitely different. For example a r model differential will not drop in a b model era housing. The spiders may swap over. Another thing to consider if your truck currently has camelback is just swaping in R model axles. It might be the same labor but you could get some 4:17 ratio and have a great highway speed now. Just a thought

Oh man.... and can you repair it in the truck or does the pump need to be pulled out?

Yes sir.

On my B model i tried puting a 24/24 chamber on but its very tight to the rim. I'd assume you would have the same issue. To get 30/30 chambers you Probably need spiders and S cams off a R model to get the cans away from the rims. Possibly re clock them so the cans don't hit the frame rail. That being said I have never tried to swap b and R spyders so not sure it will inter change?

Runs smoother than before. At idle it's much quieter. Knock on wood

My injection pump has a leak at one of the barrels where it threads in. I recall someone saying you can remove the line, unthread the barrel and a oring is in there? Is it that simple? This is on my 1977 285 maxidyne

Should the pushrods be spinning back and forth. Just curious

Heres a video I took on the test run. https://youtu.be/sSRhREtpZlA?si=SnhVHakZtzeeufg1

Got mine on ebay 2 months ago. About $70 for a set pertaining to my year truck

Ok. Got them re adjusted. I checked each set of rockers before adjusting them. I found Holes 1, 5 and 3 were spot on as expected. Holes 6,2 and 4 were loose. After re setting them all to .016 and .024 I fired it off and no ticking sounds like the other day. I have The incorrect exhaust clamp on the downpipe, so you might hear some exhaust leak in the video.But the ticking is definitely gone from the other day. Test drove. Builds 24psi boost, Pyro was 950 with foot on brake holding rpm at 1600 in direct for about 20 seconds. Engine is definitely quieter and smoother all around. Even at idle it's smoother. Thanks again for everybody's help. https://youtu.be/1OGatrOBdl8?si=9Nyouam3FCGJUN8V

I'll get a new vid next week 😎

this was last week after I put the heads back on https://youtu.be/ZXFH3xLgHtM?si=zPMPUuQFagmrnnvT

I am as well. However as I was adjusting them I never moved one adjuster more than about a 1/4 turn from their original position. I also spun it over with my ratchet 3 or 4 times before I started it just to make sure It was not interfering with the pistons

Yep. I understand now that you guys explained it clear for me. I was mistakenly adjusting 2 holes every 120* of rotation. When I saw the 1-6 2-5 3-4 I thought I was to adjust both holes together. But I think i understand now. Adjust tdc cyl1 (compression stroke) rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 5 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 3 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 6 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 2 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 4

Yep. Glad I asked I knew I missed something. I could hear the ticking

Yes the damper is as seen in the photo.

Ok that helps explain it better. I only did 1 full rotation as i was adjusting. I put 1 on tdc in the compression stroke. Adjusted 1-6,rotated 120* then did 5-3, rotated 120* to do 3-4. Guess I have to redo it again. Thanks for the help

Can someone confirm if I adjusted the valves right. I think I may have miss understood the process. And I have never done a valve adjustment before. I rotated the engine till the pointer was on the TDC mark of the damper with #1 on the compression stroke. I adjusted cylinders#1 And #6 at the same time. Then rotated normal engine rotation direction 120* to the next tic mark on the damper labeled cyl 5-2 and adjusted them both Then rotated another 120* to adjust cyl 3-4 and adjusted them both. I rotated the engine 3 or 4 full rotations by hand to make sure no valve interference then started the truck and it runs fine but definitely seams to have more rocker ticking noise. Where did I go wrong🙃

Not sure. It looks very similar to mine but not sure if the cummins have different fan mounting bolt spacing.

Check out ebay . https://www.ebay.com/itm/355759405070?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=v0muxadktfq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=B7peNTQaQY-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

I'd assume you could put a mechanical fan clutch on the 290. My 77' maxidyne had a fan mounted directly to the pully. I was able to put a fan clutch on with no other modifications. It greatly reduces noise and gives you about 10hp back to drive the wheels