R.E.D

I got a broken front spring.Does anyone have the part number?its the 3 spring pack on my 04 granite.Threaded pin on the hanger and straight pin up front with 3.5 inch wide spring.My local mack dealership does not have it in stock and they won't help with the part number.Thanks

Red.

Ps:they look similar if not the same to the one my old rd688 had.

49 minutes ago, 03' Big Red said:

I have a 2003 RD686S with the  AMI 370, can I put that software in a 1998 ECM RD688SX 

the 2003 has a Eaton the 1998 has a Allison, would that be a issue ?

Someone  correct me if I'm wrong , but Allisons are kinda limited on torque and hp options I believe.

Also replaced the  Switzer s400, for a remanufactured borg warner.they told me that my Switzer was not repairable, I think they just didn't stock the parts for that old turbo.turbine shaft had no play , just a bad oil seal.

9 hours ago, 880joe said:

So were the new 427/460 injectors stock or oversized?

They were stock.m&d only carries oem specs.

Not to get technical, but every tire manufacturer has I believe a chart on the tire pressure depending on the weight it is carrying, I run mine at 115# because I gross out at 72000#s.

I thank you all for the clarification.on a side note , I spoke to Mike at k&s and he doesn't have any cores to build injectors, therefore anyone wanting the 427/460 injectors will have to send those in and wait for him to build them to your specs..I opted to buy them from m&d distributors , they were brand new from Bosch ,no core needed 116$ each and a seal kit for like 3.50$ that includes both o rings and metal seal washer.

27 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

here is a sample...  sometimes I put a spot of weld on them to make sure it will hold, especially if im taking a pitman arm off, and on...  If it breaks when the job is done, so-what..  or just buy the real socket. I guess it depends on how much downtime you can afford..  I guess this is my Boyscout way of getting the job done..  Jojo

Lol..I did this once to take the cap off the pitman arm on my  the steering box .thanks to the magic of Amazon prime , a 9/16 Allen wrench socket will arrive tomorrow at  my door.

On 10/28/2021 at 9:52 AM, fjh said:

I have an added sequence when installing injector lines! It involves tightening the the injector down snug then backing it off to just touching tight! Then tightening  and torquing the line ! Theory behind this is it allows for the injector to find its happy place if there is any variance in the alignment ball in the head! Not sure if it helps on the e7  but have done this for ever! As we used to have issues with the V8 Lines back in the day, specially when they converted to the Robert bosch fuel pump  and were using the ball for elinment on the injector it seemed to help doing this! just something to try if you have a leaker!

 

Thanks for this tip...can you tell me the allen wrench size of the injector hold down plug.thanks again

Red

13 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

no sweat..  clean the injector bore really good.  assemble the injectors/ o-rings and base seal, line it up with the notch and tap it in to place. torque the cap to 45- 50 lbft. then install the fuel lines according to Mack spec... they are 'torque conditioned' on install..  basically 45lbft, then back it off and torque to 25lbft... supposed to have a crowfoot wrench and the formula to do it right....   whatever......  pull 45 then back them off and then pull 25+  just use your skilled hands...  jojo

Yea , when I did the manifold, I used the crows foot to take them to 30lbft .

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

what you are posting is about the injector cup... the injector only nee a light lube like assmbly lube to lube the o-rings and hold the seal ring in place for installation..  so what are you actually replacing?  jojo

I'm replacing the injectors, I guess I misunderstood the manual.😅

I'm in the process of installing the 419m3 (427/460) injectors in my ami370.i was wondering if loctite 620 on the injector was still relevant or if another product was being used nowadays.thanks

Red 

https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/50251-mack-ai460-ai427-ami-low-torque-low-horsepower-poor-fuel-mileage-granite-dead-dog-remediation/

I would like to add this set up to my granite.Is the base of the airbag where the u bolts are a custom piece or is it sold by a the manufacturer mentioned above?

So the Mack transmission is out and a rebuilt 8 low low is going to replace it..I know this topic has beaten to death in this site so I won't get into it.yet I have a couple questions.

Was told that these t3xx trans use the same pto as the eaton , not like the old t20xx trans that used different pto.IS THIS TRUE?

Also is the programming at mack for the eaton trans necessary to run? Or is it just for the speedo calibration?

Please advice.

RED

On my etech ,it was the injector oring that was bad.it would put fuel past the injector hold down cap threads and contaminate oil...you can tell by running engine shortly without valve covers .the culprit injector cap will have less oil sitting on it since the fuel washes it away.

New coolant , and I used the little gauge thingy to measure the concentration of antifreeze to water.

And by the looks of it, thermostats were the stock original ones

Yup...that ring was sitting on the pitted lip of the housing..after adding the permatex it sealed nicely ...I filled it back up with coolant..on second thought I should have waited until the permatex cured in order to add the coolant.

I have attached a picture of the thermostat and the arrow is pointing at the metal spacer I was referring on the earlier post

If it does cure , it will give me time to procure a new thermostat housing .

Yes sir..new seals are in ..I figured it out , it seems like the thermostat housing is pitted from cavitation and it would not seal...I know silicone is not to be used ,but I put just a dab to fill up the pits in the thermostat housing and it seems to be holding pressure. I will let it cure overnight and I will update in the morning.

I'm installing the dual thermostats on the granite .I got Pai thermostats .they seem to have like metal spacer that goes between the thermostat housing and the thermostat? Does this sound right?does it go on the thermostat housing?rubber seal looks thinner than the stock one, but it could the old one is thicker because of age.i installed with said spacer and it pours the coolant out . pleased advice.

Also if that spacer is not used the seal is lower than the deck.with the spacer, seal is above of the deck.

Red

It does not matter.

Looking for a r model , rd , rb fuel tank with built in steps .it has to be the small one that's like 50 gallons or less.aluminum or steel.doesnt really matter.

Thanks

Red

Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/QrV2iZkEidb

Saw this on offer up.figured someone would be interested.

I have since rigged a switch to the dash to turn fan off and on ..I have checked the a/c pressure switch by unplugging and checking voltage and continuity...also my truck is not equipped with a torque limit switch so that rules out that..I check eecu j1 pin 9 and no voltage...not sure if it is supposed to be ground..?? 

 I will have some more time this weekend to troubleshoot ..if all else fails I will be installing a fan 195 degree temp switch to activate the fan..it will go through the a/c high pressure switch as well.

Ps: I don't have a 4-2 code.just wanted to show fan circuit.