R.E.D

4 hours ago, 880joe said:

R.E.D. you said 1 eup was higher in pressure at 413 others was 340 to 370 what is pressure when new?

I'm not sure , because I just replaced the one with high pressure and the one that was stuck..but he did say 291 was kinda on the threshold and would need to be replaced if it went lower than that.

The old one seemed hard to spin when removing it ,but new one spun better

.I'll check it out and keep you all posted

Forgot to add that truck today started humming..is this the centrimax or oil pump  causing it? I don't think it's because rod bearings , everything was good on that part

UPDATE

I took off the oil pan, checked lifters and from what I could see the were oriented in the correct way.cam lobes looked great .I adjusted valve lash and ticking went away..then it started ticking again,valve cover off I noticed valve yoke for 1 piston laying there , by this time truck was miss firing..I adjusted the valve again and noise went away...I triple check my torque on all valve jam nuts to 45ft pounds.seems to be running great.ill keep you all posted.

Ps:also check rod bearing and they have plenty life left in them.

4 hours ago, Rfoster said:

No spacer under valve cover according to the data plate on the truck it’s supposed to be a e7 427 I’ll see if I can find the plate on the engine 

Spacer looks like the one the picture attached .has a grommeted hole for the brake control wire.

So what I'm saying is that it might not be the original ecm to the truck,but since it didn't bother performance it never got taken to mack to be programmed to the trucks vin.

Mine has those same two codes because my original ecm pins corroded and I had to switch  it with one out of a truck that had engine brake.it cant see the engine brake circuit therefore it throws the code.

First time doing these exhaust spring push rod engines...I was used to etechs and mech e7s.....how I miss my old mechanical e7, 350hp with an adjustment on the puff limiter and it would run circles around the ami..best of all..no computer

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

If I may??? do you know how to run the rack properly??  No dissrespect here.. jojo

No disrespect at all, I'm here to learn .

I went by the mack repair manual .I lined up the valve marks at the flywheel on 1 &6 .  1 being on compression i checked the lash.then proceeded to 5 which is 120degres apart and the next on the firing order. And so on an so forth , two full revolutions to check all valves...but please advice if I missed something.like I said .I'm here to learn..also pressed the spring on the exhaust pushroad and held it pressed when checking exhaust lash...

7 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

and it may very well be a blown int. or exh. gasket...   but still...  when you found the EUP issues, you truly beat the devil before he showed his horn's.....  I feel like youre approach for this issue is pretty good.  I'm sure others will agree...  jojo

I sure do hope so...but the weird thing is that the truck is not down on power or blowing any kinda colorful smoke..next step is to run the overhead as I only checked it the other day , didn't want to start messing with it and have it affect diagnosis..like I mentioned before, valve lash was only slightly off on a couple valves..not enough to cause the ticking ,I supposed back then

Just now, Joey Mack said:

just for kicks, take the belts off of the engine when engine temp is at the point when the noise is there,,, cold or hot...  run it for a few minutes and listen... jojo

Joey I kinda was getting the same idea,but didnt unhook the belt, I stethoscoped the water pump and alternator and they sounded good..noise kinda sounds like a blown exhaust gasket on a small block Chevy.

And this is where I bought the Bosch remans.

https://www.mddistributorsstore.com/bosch/0986-445-008/reman-eup-injection-pump

Machine that tested the eups here in houston sounded just like this one.

https://youtu.be/elCZ3HMp8k4

Local shop in houston.they are tooled to test them.I replaced the higher pressure eup.so all in all replaced two with reman Bosch .yet the ticking is still there ..not as bad but it's still there..I'll investigate a bit longer and let you all know.

One of the eup was higher in in pressure.413 he said, all other ones were in the 340 to 370? could this high pressure cause a fuel knock?

6 hours ago, fjh said:

The trim / cal code is just a finer adjustment for the puter to use as a starting point was how it was explained to me ! Not totally necessary but not a bad idea to get it done! Good find RED Check the Guide pins while your rollers are up bud ! Also  Bro some Advice !  Replace All the EUP bolts these tend to work loose and break occasionally!  

Guide pins look good, haven't measured them but all look good,I think the book says 2mm stick out ,can't quite remember.i had all the eup  tested ..the 3 suspected to be good passed the test.two of the ones with loose springs just needed a new clip the injector shop guy said....so far , one was bad for sure.ill pick them up tomorrow morning and see what's what..I got some Bosch reman on will call at m&d distributors ready to be picked up in case I decide to just replace the 3 questionable ones..431$ a piece.

49 minutes ago, 880joe said:

Is it really needed to have the eup's programmed? I have changed several and never did that but only on 1 set couldn't tell any difference in the way they ran just in my wallet when Mack got done with me

It's required per the manual , but I really couldn't tell you.Im just gonna be there anyway for the hp upgrade so might as well.

Yessir..I already have a efile open from them to upgrade to 427hp..i plan to kill two birds with one stone..also need to remove the 5 minutes shuttoff.

5 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

well there,,,   did you look at the cam lobes in the EUP bores?  Good luck man,  you may have caught this before the BIG problem happens..  jojo

They looked great, so did the rollers.no scratches.valve lash was still good.. could use adjustment on some valves , I'll run the overhead once everything is back together

Update ,3 eups bad , springs seem to be collapsed because keeper was just dancing around..roller are excellent , eup guide pins look good too.

Stethoscope test is leading me to believe eup roller for 4 and 5 could be bad.or have broken springs

3 hours ago, fjh said:

I would run thru a valve set and see if you find any loose valves you may have a cam failure underway ! 

Yea figured so..if cam shaft is failing , at least I'll get rid of the exhaust bump and put a ac cam..it's suprising how dirty and thick the oil gets from the exhaust scavenging.

Truck has developed a low to mid rpm ticking sound.seems the same on power.the air compressor is passing a good bit of oil and noise comes from that area.Im waiting for a mechanic stethoscope to kinda zero in on the source..I'm thinking air compressor but I'm also wanting to check the eups since the rollers or springs could be bad.im going to order the eup orings and see what happens.What other components do yall recommend I check? ticking sound is felt most from 800 to 1300 rpm.let me know what y'all think .

Thanks 

Red

2 hours ago, MACKS said:

Stengel Bros would be your best bet in my opinion.

Yessir I been looking through there .