R.E.D

The cover on the side of the diff should have a magnet ,check for metal sticking to it .There's always a tiny amount from normal wear,but you shouldn't see chunks.i would drain fluid from front and rear diff.If you've only owned it for a year and never have changed the oil ,now would be a good time.

I like my t310m , very lo and lolo gears..and probably same length as your t2090  so you wouldn't need a drive shaft change.

Red

I'm glad you got your truck on the road .Things like this is why I never take any of our trucks to a dealership.They will run the little guy out of business.Glorified parts changers that they are ,without any concerns of their customers.I have 4 local mack dealerships and all are as useless as tits on a boar 🐗 hog.I would suggest you shop around for someone in your area who is proficient with macks and that is proud of his work and his word.Just my .02 cents.

Red

2 hours ago, fjh said:

Red there ain't no thought put into the guy who got to lay hands on this stuff later on that's been that way for quite some time but its has gotten way worse in the last 15 -20 years since the Volvo turds took over they pride them self's on complication and expense the keep it simple stupid left the building when they took over just a shame! It could be worse We could be workin on a international  here Those guys hired a bunch of X Volvo  Engineers when they redesigned there engine! You can barely even see the valve cover there is so much crap on it!☠️ EVIL!

I rarely deal with Mackvo...since being around macks since I was knee high of grasshopper..I think I've only being there less thank 20 times.Always bad customer service,and price mark up of more than 100 percent of some stuff..and yes ,over the last 15 - 20 years it has gotten worse..I'm working on getting a parts book of ebay that way I can get part numbers and buy PAI.

RED

3 hours ago, steeler said:

Rocker bolt number is 21269038

Thank you sir.

3 hours ago, fjh said:

When these engines first came to being ! and it was apparent they were having bolt issues!  I actually saved a few bolts used back for my road box!  had them in there as I had to do a couple of road calls where  guys phoned in had ticking and popping noise due to a broken bolts so we saved the tow bill anyway ! Just put these in to get them to the shop!

So my rant here is WHY on earth  did whom ever Engineer  change from a tried and true 7/16 bolt that never gave a lick of trouble in years gone by  to a just barely good enough metric size bolt! Barely 5/16 to do the same job as the 7/16! I guess I shouldn't complain! Dumb moves Like This Kept me Employed for the last 40 years but just the same its disappointing to see this stuff happening to the product you are or were proud of! 

If I had to guess, I think there is big disconnect in the automotive industry between the engineering and the practical side of things.These engineers pat themselves in the back by saving weight or making something more affordable,yet never think of the mechanic or owner that's going to be f***ed down the line...just saw the other day a video of a a/c condenser on a late model ford explorer that needed to whole front end removed.wtf?...I'm ranting lol.

Red

I haven't checked.i would like to have the new  bolts on hand first.

Anyone have the part number for the rocker arm bolts?

On 7/24/2022 at 8:35 AM, MACKS said:

Hey fellow dump truckers I need a new tarp motor and forgot what I bought last time,does 50/1 gear reduction sound right,don’t want one a slow poke,Carolina tarp has one for 129 with excellent reviews,that’s a great price I think..

I make a habit of putting an inline circuit breaker..saves the motor and switch..if it pops up I know I have a short or drawing to much amperage , as when trying to wind it in going down the road.usually people don't stop trying to wind until they see smoke..lol

2 hours ago, fjh said:

Steeler maybe on to it here With the bolt thing as mentioned above!  Years ago E6 era ran across a push rod wear issue on e6 wear the rocker gald and dried up wearing the push tube socket ! Causing similar symptoms to a lifter failure  maybe it is this kind of scenario!  cant rule out a crack in a rocker shaft either like Steeler mentioned ! again We have very few non brake engines here I personally worked on maybe 3 all were in MR Models ! So just speculation on My part the cam pic above kind of threw me as it doesn't look that great to me but if the lobe looks and feels ok then it likley is ! The other scenario I can think of is a displaced H ring and at time of set it was off by a bit and then its some how tracking OK by its self! Duno just speculating now!

I Shone a light down the side of the pushrod hole and h ring "seems " to be in place .and lifter looks to be tracking right..idk..once I remove rockers arm and shaft ,I'll get a better look..what Steeler is saying makes perfect sense.

17 minutes ago, steeler said:

Now yall got me following this one 😂 

Almost sounds at this point as if it has to be a pushrod issue, or something crazy with the rocker itself. I'm assuming the rocker bolts aren't broken or backed off? Bent pushrod? I've seen valve seats change valve adjustments pretty quick, but they go the other way, and the lash gets tighter. 

I'm putting my money on rocker bolts, but then again I would think it would have broken the rocker shaft by now. 

I see a lot of AI engines with all 12 solid yokes, but Almost always garbage trucks. But they will even run that setup in thier roll offs with manual trans. 

Yea ,this was a roll off originaly.i tried to feel if rocker arm bushing to shaft clearance was off but everything seemed tight.

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

sounds good RED..  Yes it is a head scratcher..  If the cam is good, then keep it..  I too want to learn on this issue you are having..  multiple adjustments with no obvious damage has got me puzzled..  You are doing really good to investigate/diagnose this issue..  sorry if I come off a little brash,, nothing personal,  just frustrated for you in my own way,,   jojo

I hear ya brother!

Well this one is a real Head scratcher.no chunks on magnet or bottom of pan.my next step is to remove the pushrod and inspect it.i couldn't do it today because I don't have new rocker shaft bolts.didnt want to remove them and re use the old ones.. Joey I would never be insulted sir.im come to this site to learn and it would be foolish of me not to listen to learned people such as you , fjh,mackpro and many others that have given good advice over the years of me being a part of this forum.

With that said lol.i do know how to set valve lash .cam lobe looks great with no pitting or noticeable wear indentation...I removed the valve yoke so I could push lifter up and I rolled it with my finger and it's doesn't have a flat spot or broken..I figured as long as this issue has been ongoing something might have f-up already..I'll keep you all posted on the progress...as of now I don't see the point of throwing a cam at it before I figure it out .thanks to all for the help.

RED 

This is #4 exhaust is on the left.im checking pushrod now.

Okay, so I have the oil pan off right now as I'm typing this post. Camshaft lobe for the number four exhaust valve is good. I reached and felt the lifter roller and it is also good. Now I'm baffled because this valve is the only one that always needs to be adjusted. I will take a picture of the cam lobe and post it and see what you guys think.

Fellas,

Truck is a 2004 cv713. Ami370

No engine brake 

No adjustable valve yokes.

It already has the 5" exhaust with s400 turbo and etech exhaust manifold.

Also has the 427/460 stock injectors.

Monday I will be call ATL diesel to order the AC camshaft 454gc5247 along with the valve and eup lifter kit.

I got this cam number from my buddy's truck.he has an 04 ch with an. Ac427 with no engine brake.

6 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

easy breezy....  barr the engine around to 1&6...  then, look at the #2 exh. rocker arm (the front one)... exh. valves are to the front of the cylinders...  it should be 'rocked'  opening the exh. valve.  that means you are up on #1..  if #2 exh. rocker is not rocked, then you are up on #6....  jojo

Thanks you sir.

What is the best way to do a valve lash after cam install?how can I tell that # 1 is at TDC compression?and not #6? I was told that It was done by lining the timing marks on crank ,cam , and idler but I don't trust it.i know that all those 3 gears line up in time every 16 revolutions therefore I wonder how it's done.Thanks in advance.

Red

https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/50251-mack-ai460-ai427-ami-low-torque-low-horsepower-poor-fuel-mileage-granite-dead-dog-remediation/?do=findComment&comment=372944

Please excuse my nagging.just want to be sure I'm installing the cam that will work.i know this is a experimental procedure that should make an improvement and that I'm taking a risk ,But last thing I want is to put everything back together and it doesn't work right.I can't spare to be down a truck.im barely handling my work load ..lol.

This for a non engine brake engine correct?

15 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

OK.. so the one I just built is..... CXN-613/017414.... The cam # is: 454GC4271....  Volvo # 20706395....  jojo (ASET-C)

Thanks.

23 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

on the end of your cam shaft will be the Mack number..  My suggestion, is to pull the front cover and look..   jojo

The thing is that I'm trying to get Ami exhaust bump camshaft out and put a cam from an Ac motor that has no exhaust bump.Just not sure which ac cam to use.

I'm guessing it's one of these two.