Got a mack 13 speed out of a 05 ch, truck is being converted to a eaton 8ll..the 13speed has the typical bad low range synchro.. besides that it works great..800$...Houston tx area

6 hours ago, zeault said:

I have been thinking about the injectors.  I was really hoping the guy I took it to would offer me some more advice but he fixed the code and decided it was all set.  I read in the maint&lube manual that you're supposed to pull them all and clean/test them every 150K or so.  It is probably due for that.  Do you know where I can get nozzles for that price?  The mechanic I hired charged me $269 for a single nozzle from the local dealer, and even my aftermarket parts guy is higher than $125.

I'd reach for that remack nozzle six-pack but I already paid for that one new so now I only need five.  When I get back to town I'm probably going to buy a better torque wrench and go into the head myself.  Question for ya:  The book says always replace the head cover gasket with a new one.  Is that really necessary?  its just the cover.

The stud hasn't really leaked since I took it in.  It was probably just the jake gasket leaking onto it from above.

Thanks

I use m&d distributors... bought six new ,and don't have to turn in your core.

PAI 801081 

I use these

Assuming you have mack rears , it should be 28 spline ,1-1/2 " hole and 6inch spacing between clevis pin and center of s cam spline shaft.

Like Fjh said , pay attention ..it could be the smallest detail...I had similar problem to yours on my 96 ch 427.. ended up being the primer pump..it would suck air and kill truck after running a while....if you push the primer pump and fuel comes out the primer button then it's defective..even if it's slightly wet.air is thinner than fuel, assume that if fuel gets by ,air will too.

Looks good.

1 hour ago, VTS said:

This engine has a damper that is stamped with the cylinder numbers 120deg apart. There is a pointer bolted to the block.  The book says to bar the engine over to place #1 cyl to the pointer on compression stroke and set the lash. Then bar over to the next cyl in the firing order (5) and set that one, and so on thru the entire firing order. My problem is that after setting the lashes, there are exhaust valves that have more clearance than they were set for after barring the crank to the next cylinder.  Like the cam wasnt at its lowest profile when it was lined up on the damper. Any thoughts?

Is this pointer factory or did someone add it?i use the flywheel method because it's dead on..check that the pointer coincides with the flywheel markings..also not trying to scare you but if you have damaged lifter rollers ,it would throw off you lash setting when engine is rotated....

this has been discussed before in the post attached.your eot is normal.... usually the eot and ect delta is usually 15 to 30 degrees depending on engine.. therefore if your engine oil temp is 230 coolant temp should be 15 to 30 cooler than the oil.

Red

Damper? timing marks are at the flywheel.Clearance or lash is checked at the piston's compression stroke.if you're setting valves for 1 other valves will be in overlap .

What engine?mack e7, mp8 mp7?need more details friend

6 hours ago, Mack log truck said:

Not to change topics but I was under the truck and noticed some coolant on the surface of the lower tank and dripping off. If I pull the radiator can just a  new lower tank be installed without getting to complicated? I can't tell for sure if it's coming from the gasket or coming through the metal but the lower tank is pretty rusty. 

If it's  metal  ,it could be repaired by a good radiator shop.. plastic style in my opinion need replacement.

Red

3 hours ago, MACKS said:

I remember years back we would run straight 40W just to have better oil pressure..

I always use a gallon of Lucas...some people hate it ,some people love it.. usually no in between..lol.

it's on an isx...but same principle applies.

When I swapped my t2090 to eaton, I got an aluminum bell housing..over time the steel rivets cast in the aluminum busted off because of torque I believe.being a dump truck and off-road all the time didn't help it none.Long story short ,it broke off the passenger side transmission mount and whole engine leaned to the side..it broke the econovance fitting and engine ran itself mostly out of oil until the low oil pressure shut her down...I guess what I'm trying to say is when converting to eaton , look for the steel bell housing..

Red

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

the plastic side cover is real,,, thanks to Volvo.... jojo

Yea I figured.. cutting corners..I bet they figured the aluminum last too long , therefore they made plastic which becomes brittle and  brakes while removing.then they charge an arm and leg at the stealership for another plastic one.lol.only way they get us to stop rebuilding and repairing our older equipment is to make replacement parts with lower quality and prices higher than giraffe 🦒 p***y... excuse my French.

Red

1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

i first read this post and thought you were joking! a PLASTIC side cover, guess i've been away from the wrenches too long. 

Yea it's some kind of plastic..has brass spacers molded at the four bolt holes as to not crush the cover by over torquing them...the fill hole plug is rubber and snaps in like the plug on a front axle wheel hub..they get brittle and brake while removing...I changed mine to aluminum about ten days ago wheel I had my rear end rebuilt.

Can't help with part number, but there are two kinds of covers plastic and aluminum.. plastic cover oring is thicker than aluminum.which one do you have?

CL had longer hood as well to accommodate these bigger engines.

CL733 Cummins engine 

CL753 Cat 😸 engine 

CL743 Detroit engines...but these are rarer than a honest politician.

Also .. different frame 

Red

18 hours ago, thomastractorsvc said:

Just had the truck in the dealer  for a couple dealer repairs while there I had them reseal a EUP that was wet.  After they got the truck back together the truck is throwing 2-9 code that says Combustion Air Humidity TBD.  So I ask them what happened when they had everything apart deer in the head light stare because the sensor is $325.   My concern is that its not a regular fault and they said they couldn't figure out what was going on and wanted to throw a sensor on it. 

Any one ever have this issue and anyone know the part number?  I cant find it in Fleet Impact buts it is mounted in the intake tube and they didn't want to give me the part number for some reason.

Yea ..the deer 🦌 in the headlights look is all too common in my area.. specially in the mack motors , I think macktechnician used to call it gray engine amnesia ... around here, taking your truck to the dealership  is as useless  as tits on a boar hog.lol

6 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Hey R.E.D.   I bet there was a lot of excitement in youre area when President Trump came to town. I hope I get a chance to see him.  I expect him to come to Charlotte someday soon..  jojo

Absolutely, everyone had been preparing for a while..the county I live in ( montgomery) is big supporter of Mr.trump.