R.E.D

Engine fan is staying locked ... solenoid tested good .I'm only getting 3.8 volts to solenoid connector and a/c high pressure switch. Fuse 41 on fire wall is good.any thoughts?

Sounds good , yet I would like to find a led replacement.

Howdy fellas

Can someone provide the part # or bulb style for the instrument cluster for the granite? The bulb is not removable from the bulb houlder.im attaching pics , the holder only says "wagner " and "10 j".

3 hours ago, Mack Ccrs 470 said:

Great pics so where is that pump located on engine and it looks like a gear type pump and you just take cover plate off or do you have to take off pump complete?

This is on a 2004 Ami 370.i believe yours is different yet the principle is the same...Eup engines have a Cross drill passage from front to back of engine . remove plug in the front and test it with a pressure gauge.I believe it should be from 55 to 80 psi at idle.if lower than that replace pump...

Pump is on passenger side in front...there should be a hand priming pump attached to it.

RED

On 8/23/2020 at 6:35 AM, mrsmackpaul said:

Great to hear a report back as to how it all worked out when you get a chance 

 

Paul

Paul

Ran the truck this morning on the same routes as before and I gotta tell ya it pulls way better than before .Uphill didn't have to down shift as I usually had to do.Also I'm not having to rev the truck past 1800  in order to shift smoothly , so that should improve mpg.next step is injectors and a flash since I'm still at 9b. 

1 hour ago, Mack Ccrs 470 said:

So what fuel pump had the loose gear the main pump ? It wouldn’t run with no drive on main pump ? Is it the lift/transfer pump ? 

Truck will run with a bad fuel pump ,mine wouldn't pull  even on flat ground.

Macktechnician's contributions won't be forgotten.his numerous post with attention to detail will continue helping Mack owners stay on the road for ages to come.Hopefully the right people will come to sense and let him back, if he so wishes of course.

Thank you sir.

Red

7 hours ago, fjh said:

So Money pit here's a thought and some experiences for ya!

One test that can be performed is to put 12 volts to the solenoid  if the timing advances then the econovance is working and you may still have an electrical issue ! there is a spring inside the unit that can break and there are teflon piston rings that can wear and deteriorate !So in that sense the mech is correct ! IMPORTANT If the econovance is working correctly the engine should start and stumble and smoke blu white smoke till the oil pressure comes up once the oil pressure is up, the engine  should clean up and run smooth!  at that point the engine is running @ apporx 12 degrees advanced !Properly working the timing should increase with RPM up to 22/24 degrees depending on RPM  ! sounds like yours is not working! I suggest you put 12V to the sol and see if it advances the timing you will hear the difference if its working if you don't hear a difference then  the line across the front of the engine could be suspect change that Its Cheap!  And available anywhere! then try the test again Manually  if the issue is still there your  likely  going where they are sending you! If the issue goes away  and you still have a problem with the wire from the harness connected  then you got a wirring or ECU issue ! SO A possible  work around would be to cap that  line off to the econovance and set the base timing from where it is now  roughly ( 6-8 degees) to  19 t0 20 degrees this may get you to work with out spending a big bag of money on parts !

Because in my Opinion the econocance was installed as More of  an emissions issue! not that much of an economy thing! (And that there is  JUST AN OPINION!) not a fact!

 

If you do this test , remember that 12 volts applied might make the solenoid actuate but if orings are gone oil bypass will occur and timing won't change.

Also wouldn't hurt to check resistance in said solenoid to make sure it has continuity and the correct resistance.im not sure what resistance it should should have but someone here might know.

Have you removed the two screws holding that solenoid?it's a hydraulic valve , it has orings that could have deteriorated and oil pressure could be bypassing and altering timing.

2 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

Somebody counter this thought.....

Im buying my 4th generation Skoolie and I’m thinking I may buy a pre tier III engine. My old rule was no electronic motors, but times running out on that thinking.....they’re all in Mexico now. 

Back in the day we loved screwing around with a base mechanical engines and did whatever we wanted with delivery manipulation and made lots of smoke. We didn’t change pistons and turbo every time we wanted more power. This bus with a Cat 3126 engine has a different rebuild kit for the 5 or so HP groups they come in. It’s a 190HP (170 lowest, 330HP highest) and I want to crank that up a fuzz. BUT.....A different base engine package for the HP increments? I’m calling the bluff and saying the wild long list of piston & turbo variations are mainly for emissions compliance........ esp piston variations.....NOT to compensate for stress/heat/compression/performance etc. Historically, you kept your turbo/injectors and took free agency to do what you wanted with pump delivery.

Im not talking about maxing the Cat to 330HP and blowing the driveline, but flashing it up 20-30 HP and different (proper) injectors. I think it can still be done at little risk to the base engine except wacking out the emissions read.

Anybody ever get bit???

PS- you find a good condition, locally owned, 11 window, bus with a mechanical DT466/Cummins 5.9/Cat 3116  w/ 5 or 6 speed manual....I’ll pay a $100 finders fee if I buy it. Scouts honor. It’s thin pickings to find something with a decent body. Impossible really in salt country. 

Dt360 while on the rarer side are also a good option for that small of a bus.same displacement as Cummins but it has liners that can be replaced unlike a Cummins 5.9 .Also there is some aftermarket support since guys used them for sled pulling and they make plenty power with the right add ons.

Just my 2 cents

PS:I believe Carson Stauffer diesel sells some of the go fast parts for the Dt engines.

RED

Hello Mackanic,

We need more details  in order to help .Does it crank over at all?does the lighting bolt light up momentarily when key is turned to on position?are all the fuses good in the dash and the fire wall fuse boxes?

10 hours ago, david wild said:

Robust ? Stiffer ? More overdrive ? .73 .74 over  you can tell the difference between .01 over  ?  you can buy a brand new Fuller from LKQ for less than the average repair of your beloved Mack 18 and still have a pig, I really like the multi speeds in reverse but the my 8LL has a lolol in reverse and a higher speed in low side, compares to my Mack, but the Fuller is so much user friendly,  and quieter  and I'll bet that a Mack with a Fuller gets better fuel mileage, it takes a huge amount of power to turn the Mack trans, put one on the floor and spin it by hand and then spin a Fuller ??  that's $$ up the pipe.

Agreed..all the things you say are true , yet I only stated the differences..and never said I loved it.i have swapped over to Eaton in the past  for ease of use and maintenance and because drivers brake then trying to shift then like eatons.but in the truck I drive , I keep my t310m for it serves me best for my application.

33 minutes ago, Nobody454 said:

i found the mack version much tighter and harder to drive, just took some getting used to i guess. I'm back to an Eaton now in the KW

That's due to the Mack being a triple countershaft design which makes it more robust and therefore a little stiffer to shift .Eaton only has two countershafts.

Also mack trans have a bit more overdrive, giving it a bit more road speed compared to Eaton or lower rpm at desired speed .

32 minutes ago, TS7 said:

What is happening now riots, looting, attacks on the police is clearly coordinated by allies of the Democrat party. Who is paying for this? The Black people are just useful idiots for there agenda to destroy America. 

Not to seem conspiratorial,but there has been pallets of bricks dropped off where most rioters congregate....not just one place I believe , they didn't look busted like if they fell off a truck instead they look placed in order to be used by the rioters.

The used ecm that I was able to get (since mack dealership didn't have one and had to order it , meaning at least a  week of downtime ) came from an Ami 370 like mine..only difference is that it had an engine ...I have the ⚡ code for the engine brake since my truck didn't come equipped with one..therefore ina sense I'm working backwards to achieve this ...

Macktechnician is right.some one who is currently knee deep in this would be able to give us the details Nitty-gritty details.

Hello fellas ,  can we start a tread for posterity for those wanting to retrofit their trucks with an engine brake..what are the best option and things needed in order to accomplish this task.

I would like to start by posting this bulletin on the matter.

Thanks 

RED

PS: if the full bulletin is wanted it can be had free of charge from Mack emedia .just search for the bulletin number sb266017

No ..I bought an aftermarket tach that ran off the pulse from the alternator..it fit in place of the old one...the aftermarket tach has a adjustment knob in order to match it up to real engine rpm.

Mack engines do "fit " since the engine are same displacement ment...what makes them ai or ami is programming ,turbo and injectors...there several post describing the difference and similarities between hp ratings.. typically 50 hp difference engines have the same hardware components just different software programming.

39 minutes ago, DieselDog5.9 said:

We did think about switching to an Eaton Fuller 18 Speed, but need to get back to work without the BS of extending the driveshaft and other associated bs that would need to be modified.

She is an ornery shifting bitch.

 

If you do decide make the swap.try to get the steel (iron) bell housing.The aluminum one doesn't like the torque twist when off road and the pressed fittings come loose and since mack engines are only held by the front and transmission engine mounts the engine will fall on it side ..

Had this happen on my 96 Rd and engine leaned towards passenger side braking the econovance fitting .it dumped most of the oil and shutoff.had to retap econovance housing on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere while it was 19 degrees outside .

12 hours ago, Mack Technician said:

Don’t have to buy it, Mack e-media has a free download....go to “Mack E-media” and search “10-710”

J-41028 is the plate tool

Nice ...I had this on watch to buy...but nothing beats free.thanks Mack tech

This manual is on ebay for 50$ .... covers what your wanting to do.

Do you have the lighting bolt when you turn key to acc position?if not , computer might be fried.but no lighting bolt could also be a blown bulb on the dash .