R.E.D

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

And how the Hell did you get a rear end job done in a day? Did you have a rear end in your parts room?  No way someone built a rear end in one day,    anyway,  Great job.... Jojo

I was told as well that they stock mack parts , specially for common gear ratios like 4.17 and 4.42.i have 4.42 so I was in luck...

Back one...I did the front one end of June 2021... Thursday I finished my day at around 5pm.yesterday morning took it off and had it rebuilt by 430pm...put it on today.. Houston has a truck hub, off mcarty street.. endless Miles of anything semi truck related.. including 4 or 5 gear train rebuilders..they work fast ...work has warranty as well so they work with diligence in order not to have warranty returns.

29 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Yes sir !!!  I'm watching live on NEWSMAX , I'm in central N.C.  God Almighty,   I  Miss him as our President !!  Jojo

Yessir..I'm only 19 miles away from the rally..but yesterday the rear end had a ticking sound.. brought it in to get completely rebuilt..it was about time anyway..got it in today afternoon.too late to make it ...tons of people

Trump is in my neck of the woods tonight.couldnt make to the rally because I just got done putting the rear end in the granite..it's live on YouTube right now...

One last thing, this kit fits all mack Carriers?my truck is 2004 year model.

I pump untill new grease shows , except scams, because as mechaulic suggested they fill , the brake shoe with grease and could create unwanted problems.

1 hour ago, Onyx610 said:

I heard that the metal bushings are better for like dump trucks and the plastic are fine for highway trucks. As the dumps are mostly stop and go and lots of brake applications….

Yes sir, that's why I favor them ,the stop and go abuse wears them out.

2 hours ago, Steel Nose said:

The bronze cam bushings are available thru Euclid part# E807

Thank you sir..Euclid is what I bought in the past. Just couldn't remember.

My s cam bushings are shot..I plan on doing an rear end complete overhaul pretty soon..I go to the mack dealer for an unrelated part and ask for a quote for all the brake components for the two drive axles.i ask for the metal s cam bushings not the plastic..guy at the counter says he has never heard of metal s cam bushings..and he has been working for mack for 14years...I didn't want to sit there and argue with the guy so I played dumb and got my part and left...but I remember I installed brass or bronze s cam bushings on my Rd before .does anyone have the part number for the bronze bushings?crd92 93 I believe.. thanks 

Red

When you replaced clutch, did you take the flywheel to get resurfaced?if so , did you make sure you got your flywheel back and not someone else's?

Also I could have sworn there was some post here or service bulletins about the depth of those sensors , and shims.. someone correct me if I'm wrong.

#1 and #6 are on the same Tdc stroke,just something to note 

13 hours ago, Dan107 said:

Evening everyone.  I have a 2012 Pinnacle CXU613, MP8.  I was unloading my pneumatic trailer yesterday and noticed the engine began making excessive noise.  I initially thought something internal was about to fail.  The noise quieted down somewhat, and on the way back home, I only noticed it when the truck was at idle.  I put the computer on it today and there was an inactive injector code related to a bad signal.  Through diagnostics, (cylinder balance reset, and compression test)  I found that #1 and #6 cylinders are outside of normal (big red bars on the graph) with #1 being the worse of the two.  I ran an overhead on it, and did another compression test with the same results.  My question is; does this mean I need to do an in-frame?  Is there any other tests that I could run to help me determine if this is needed?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  

I'm not to educated on mp engines but if they are like any other diesel engine, I would assume that a cylinder balance or contribution test with failed compression will cause the engine to speed up where the compression stroke happens in the dead cylinder , it's an audible speed change when cranking.did you test compression with a known good analog gauge or just electronically? 

30 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

 the o-rings are easy to buy...  how corroated is the cover?  if it's not salt damaged, just drain the top reduction, pull the cover, remove the o-ring in one piece, (hopefully). clean the groove, clean the opening of the carrier, clean the o-ring and rub it down with Mack gray RTV or Permatex ultra black, and put it back together, put a dot of RTV on the 4 bolt's. then put new gear oil in the side plug. this will also give you the chance to inspect the gear set and clean the magnetic tray..  jojo

And check back lash as well.

2 hours ago, Ricky Beals said:

I had no idea you can get miles from the ecm. I have a scan tool that reads codes for cars but I’m sure the big trucks have a different plug in. This truck is also in a very populated area so maybe I can find someone like JoJo to help me. 

Search your local Craig's list under services , and look for a heavy diesel mechanic.they most likely will have diagnostics equipment and will be able to help you.

2 hours ago, MACKS said:

In the add it says 44 rears and 18 front,that’s thousands,that’s 62000 gross weight,truck weighs 27000 empty + or -, legal.  net weight is around 35000 or 17.5 tons, I’ve been dump trucking a long time and just gonna give u a heads up,that truck is way over priced,25 to 27000 would be about right,good luck..

I second that  price range..with cash in hand you could get it mid to high 20s.that company probably paid around 15k to 20k for that truck if that..cash is king.

Here in houston, there are about 10 to 15 dump truck outfitters churning out dump trucks non stop....these old work horses are not as desirable as they are up north , but I wouldn't trade any of those road queens for that combination of gear train in that rd690.

2 hours ago, Ricky Beals said:

I understand now. Education is not free and I really had no idea how important front suspension is. I’m really thinking about selling that converted truck and buying something like we are talking about. It’s topics like this that helps us newbies. The problem with this truck is verified mileage. Having 200,000 miles is a lot different than 1.2 million. Thanks guys for response 

If you do decide to pull the trigger on it...I always recommend people to take someone that has a scan tool that can read for stored codes in the computer and tell you actual ecm miles.Those analog hour meter and odometer can be newer that the truck ..as they don't reflect the ecm mileage like the digital ones do...not to mention all the shady shenanigans people come up with to make an older truck seem newer...if you really like it , then paying 150$ to 250$ for someone to scan and tell you what's what, ain't that bad... 

Just now, Joey Mack said:

Ricky.... there is so much knowledge here, it's crazy..  I like these threads for a bunch of reason's. One big one is that I get to learn a different way to look at truck's that I have been around for more than 20 year's, I always learn something here, (Not saying I was a know-it-all before)..  What I learn here makes me better, when I'm serving my customers... Jojo

Many of us share your thoughts Joey 👍

Hopefully all these comments serve you as ammunition to bring down the price.good luck buddy.

Like onyx said , at least one wheel seal is gone, cylinder on the bed needs repacking soon but will last the way it is, just gotta check hydraulic fluid so you don't burn up your pump..also missing the dummy light in the dash above the tach and speedo...can't remember if it's the parking light or the lightning ⚡ bolt.lol...nice truck other wise..also they installed a new floor on top of the old one on the bed..you can tell because the bed is wavy looking at it from the bottom but looks new looking at it from the inside..it's not bad just makes the truck a bit heavier.

Red

My cousin has the same spec truck as in the add...does the job well with superb mpg , just slower lol 

Red

I agree with macks ,the learning curve is to steep ..this is the front end we are talking about.something comes loose going down the road because of a error on your part and the results could be catastrophic..this is a dump truck we are talking about ,which carries the load , not pulls it..stubby one inch impact is the way to go...but that's just my .02¢...if your not tooled up to do it , just have someone else take care of it... besides the one inch impact , we use some 25 ton jacks , pry bars and engine driven air compressor big enough to provide the cfm for the impact to work like it should.let us know.

Red

4 hours ago, Ricky Beals said:

What do you guys replace your bushings with? Have you guys upgraded your springs? If so what with or do you still run three leaf that came on truck.

We just take spring pack and have the shop press the bushings in..3 spring should be enough for a tandem truck grossing less than 50k pounds I believe.we use 4 springs ,since the trucks are tri axles and run gross around 55k to 57k pounds .

4 hours ago, Ricky Beals said:

Thank you guys for your response. I appreciate the time and information you guys have given me. Again I really appreciate your time and patience. 
 

is this something a guy with some mechanical skills perform? I’m talking replacing the springs and bushings and pins. I have replaced a few leaf spring packs on Toyota tacomas but Never have owned a big truck or been around them much. Bought some land and needed to build some roads and move a lot of gravel. So bought this truck and a excavator and just started doing it. The biggest tools I have are 1/2” drive and a Milwaukee 1/2 impact. 

I'm afraid that 1/2 drive won't be enough..u bolts are one time use since they stretch and the nuts on them pretty much weld themselves in with rust and road grime over time..we use a torch or cut off whel to cut them.

You can take them to your local springs shop or big truck parts store to be measured..while your there ,pick up a spring center bolt.this is the bolt that keeps the whole spring pack together..it's doweled at the bottom to center springs pack into the axle..we use a one inch drive impact with short anvil to tighten the u bolts.. tighten evenly and don't forget to put back the wedge...that's what sets your caster .let us know.

Red 

Ps: there's a channel on YouTube called "semi working"..he does this for a living and has a videos on macks too.good luck.

Sir ,what you are describing in my opinion are the bushings as you have suggested.our 2 mack chs have this problem.since they were over the road and since converted to dump truck the rubber bushings don't hold up.. usually we can get a year out of them.they are not greasable ,either in the front or the back at the spring hanger.They noise is most easily heard when turning loaded.see if upgraded polyurethane bushings are available in your area.. polyurethane usually last longer.. picture above from onyx is from an axle that has threaded pins and are greasable...and a later year model to yours ..indicated by the 3 holes on the pin,which I believe is a Volvo design.

Red.

11 hours ago, Stitch117 said:

Hi guys working through some ideas on my grandfather's old Mack Restore, should I just sandblast, paint and repair this rear? Or option 2; find a wrecked late model Pinnacle and cut the rear frame, off and weld it to the old girl? Has anyone done this to a Mack? I know EZrider on YT did it with his "Old Red 359" rebuild. Overall, for a 30-year-old truck it's in pretty good shape, just in dire need of some TLC. 

Ezra , aka ezrider359 did an amazing job on that old Pete. Phillip from the flannel Phillip YT channel also did it to his old kw w900.but fortunately yours looks good 👍 and can be brought back with blasting, painting and a little bit of tlc.

Red