Red Horse

Thx Fred, bottom line, you are shifting the mainfirst and then the compound? None of this two handed stuff?

Paul, Doug Fetterly, 315-543-2624, 14203 Parks Rd., Harrisville, NY 13648 I got his card at Macungie last year

One other thing. The rear is a 9.05 ratio so that puts a lot less strain on the rest of the driveline vs. having a faster ratio.

Mike, hand brake gone, has Maxi's. And my issue is trying to do a split shift without a lot of gear clash or a lot of lost momentum. And as it is a Maxidyne, it sure doesn't need 10 ratios but it is nice to have the option to split a gear or two.

Larry- this truck was used up until two years ago with that powertrain-again, owner operated and I'm sure that has something to do with it surviving.

[attachm nt=4183:B60XBolton_001.jpg]Guys, I probably should get under this and read the numbers. the truck is a 56 and my guess is that somewhere along the line, someone yanked the gas motor and stuck a 673/Duplex in it. I have the build sheet but the original box could not have survived with the 673. I'm told that around 79, they put the Maxi in it. I believe it has a 10 speed- not a low hole six. And I agree that as the Maxi was designed to run from 1200 to 2100, the splits in the 10 speed were designed for a 400 rpm band- not 900. Again, assuming I want to split as conditions dictate, what is smoothest way? move main first or compound? And I intend to use this truck- with the respect a 53 year old truck is due.

How about some help. I have a Duplex behind a Maxidyne. I just got thr truck and have basically been driving it as a six speed. Any and all suggestions on properly shifting a Duplex would be aprreciated. I think the 1200-2100 rpm band makes splitting this a bit more difficult.

mack.museum@macktrucks.com

Ever try sending those numbers to Don Schumaker at Mack Museum?

Ok Guys, any thoughts?. About to sand blast my B chassis. FA-522 front axle and RAD 111 rear. 24" My question is, given the fact this thing is a 1960, what parts would you think would likely require replacememt- other then the obvious of linings, hoses diaphrams. I have a new set of Maxi's for the rear. I'm asssuming things like slack adjusters, shoes, bushings etc should stillbe available? Anythoughts would be appreciated. I'm not doing this yself so I have tothink about trade off of labor vs new etc.

Thx guys for the responses.

Any suggestios on best way to fix up a couple of cracks? Worst is about an 1/8". Typical B lime green. thx

Hey guys, thanks again

Paul, Larry, Thanks for the responses. Will look at both options. Bob

Guys, I want to convert my B to an alternator and get rid of the series parallel switch. I'm swapping cabs so all of the current wiring is junk. I assume if I buy a harness from say Top-O Hill or any other supplier, I will be getting a lot of stuff I don't need given the conversion to an alternator. Any thoughts? I have to believe many of you have "been there-done that"!

Guys, thank you all for your responses. Lizardskin looks pretty good, but as with so many of these things, a little creativity goesa long way. For example, I'm thinking Lizardskin on everything then perhaps plain syrofoam sheet on the cab back panel and even above in the headliner? Or if you are not talking about moving parts (doors) even expanding foam? As log as you don't get the kind that has too high an expansion rate

Guys, we are stripping my B cab before it goes to the soda blaster. As for the formed inplace insulation on the cab firewall (interior) anyone have any ideas as to what you replace that with? I'm sure no has any of that in inventory. Appreciate any suggestions.

Guys, Anyone out there bought any 11 x 24's lately? If so what brand and how much.?

Rod, thx for the tip!

Paul, Matt Pafhl, from Conn. was at the Macungie show in June and was selling off some inventory. Check out his webb site for contact info as he might have some more or have a line on reasonable replacement prices. Good thought on checking Mack dealers- its easy to get into the mindset of automatically thinking they WON't have inventory. Bob

Paul, Thx for response. Actually I should have mentioned the rubber gaskets. I did pick up the wing window rubber at a recent show at a very fair price. the only place I have seen windshield and rear window rubber is Watts, so if anyone has another source I would like to hear about it.. Although I would imagine that some of the door track material can be off the shelf bulk material that can be cut to length??? Bob

Guys, Anyone have any recent experience with getting new cab glass cut? Only good piece of glass I have is the back window. So I'm talking windshields, vent windows and door glass. Appreciate any cost info anyone might have.

If it had a 534 it was a 900, not an 800. I know you said the sheet metal was gone, but for what its worth, if it had a short cab-90 BBC- it would be an LN-900. If it had a long cab-106" BBC, it would be an L 900

Ok guys- For the front springs $950 pr. (these are 14 leaf) rears $1210 pr rear Helpers 495 pr Helper brkts 179 total $2834 Keep in mind this is a 35,000 LB rear with torque rods each side and a center torque rd going to the cross member. But like the Fram guy said.."pay me now or pay me later".