Red Horse

Seems like he converted to negative ground with an alternator.

Rob

Guys, My B is 12 volt. I put a new Galion dump body on it and I want to replace my old frame mounted stop/tail lights (2) and turn signals with two new integral stop/tail/turn signals. Can I use LED's. Some people are telling me my flasher won't handle the LED's

Hi Bob. You can put any rear axle under the truck but will need to move the saddles on the axle housing appropriately. In the B series of truck most frame widths were 33.5" and a lot of other vendors were 34" in width. This of course moves the springs and saddles 1/4" on each side further out. Finding round tube spring seats are usually best acquired at a trailer parts vendor as most trucks nowadays use a square, or rectangular housing. I've used "Hutchens" spring seats several times when swapping axles on a single axle truck.

Not too bad of job, I usually plasma cut the original spring seats from the new axle, and finish dress the remaining stubs with a grinder and flap disc. Typically I have the driveline in the truck and hooked up to the rear axle drive yoke with weight sitting on the rear springs. You then rotate the rear axle to the correct driveline angle, spot weld the spring seats to the tube, raise the truck and weld solid. this is assuming a round tube axle. If square tube, shims must be used for the correct driveline angle.

Glen, or Herb can fill you in much better than I, but this is the way I do it.

Robx

rob- I'm afraid your skills (and energy) are way beyond this old boy! I'm really rethinking this issue now. If I compare gear ratios (ignoring the low hole) I find the following. What I did was pick the TRD720 ratios that came closest to the TRXL 1071 ratios

Gear TRXL 1071 % change TRD 720 % change

1st 8.59 7.25 1L

2nd 4.99 42 4.16 2L 43

3rd 2.84 43 2.34 3L 44

4th 1.66 41 1.33 4L 43

5th 1.00 40 1.00 4H 25

.78 5H 22

Again, huge difference in rears as the 1071 would need a gear change to a 4.670 and the current ratio is 6.67

I'll try driving it this way with a load in a few days.

Thx Rob. I'm also brain dead as After I did the post I did a search on "cable clutch" and found that I raised this issue in 10/09, a few months after I bought the truck. I got some good info at the time-just never did anything with it. But my 6.67 rear has some play in it so I figured before I fool with that I should face the bigger issue. The original carrier is a CRD -62 and that was replaced with the CRD 118 in later versions of the RAD 111 axle. A 4.60 is the highest ratio you can get.

Bob

Guys, From prior posts you might recall my B has a Maxidyne with a duplex (TRD-720) and a 6.67 rear. I can get a 4.60 chuck and a TRXL-1071. Has anyone put this 6 speed in their B? I gather I have an issue with the clutch right as the TRXL has cable actuation with a suspended pedal?

thx Larry- I think it was on "oldmacksrus" but now I can't open any of those info threads that the site has.

Guys,

Anyone have the gear ratios for the TRD 720?

10-4 rob- I hear you

10-4 guys- thx- I have Duplex behind a Maxidyne in my 56, and everyone keeps telling me the back half won't take the torque of a 237 so I'm planing ahead.

Guys- Rob says .."air shifted." I'm talking about the one with two sticks- not the one with the air valve on the stick.

Guys,

What is the proper nomenclature for the six speed TWO STICK-not air shift- that was used with 237 Maxidynes?

We have had 4 or 5 days now of sunshine, high 60's or low 70's. Been really nice, cepting, Them texas bad boys are out enjoying sunshine too. I been clearing timber during all this nice weather, but I aint too anxious to get off tractor, might be doing the two step. I am seeing whole bunches of em, may box up a couple and send em to Rob,,,,randyp

So what kind is that? (the snake, not the grouser!)

I think it is a Cline.

I believe you are correct-for sure its NOT a Euc. The ATHS mag of a few months ago had an article on Clines- don't have it handy but the reverse windshield appears to be a hallmark of Cline.

Name: Mack B-68X (1960)

Date Added: 07 November 2008 - 06:21 PM

Owner: Red Horse

Short Description: Currently chassis

View Vehicle

A couple of my trucks have that much.

thx5thW- Maybe its a common to double reduction rears.

Guys,

I was under my B-61X -it's a bit of an oddball, Duplex with a Maxidyne- and noticed that there is about a 1/4-1/3 turn/amount of play in the rear end. Its a CRD 62 with a 6.67 ratio. Truck does not "bang' or "clunk" but I was surprised to find that much play.

Any opinions?

Fifth Wheel- Very nice job. I'm not sure I have the energy to do that. Like I said, I have a triangle-about an inch on a side that broke out. Short term I will tape it and maybe I'll try to do a fiberglass patch job for a long term solution.

Guys, thx for your comments. I put the air cleaner back on today andI've got about a 3/4" triangle opening. In the short term I'm going to use some Gorilla Tape to cover it but I think the solution is (as was suggested) to take the air cleaner off and then fiberglass a band around the housing

The Air cleaner connector that comes out of the side of the cowl (B-model) is some sort of composite /plastic/rubber which after 54 years is brittle. I broke off about a 1" chunk of it and was thinking this has to be a common problem. This part is also a tough one to get out so if I found one in good shape in a junk yard, I would not want to spend a lot of time trying to salvage it.

Anyone have any good suggestions for a good "bridge" to connect from the air cleaner to what is left of the factory piece coming out of the cowl?

220 Cummins had good advice- not only did I order the insulators from Cleveland Tank, but after snapping the first "T" bolt off, I dragged out the Sawsall and cut the rest of them off. I then ordered new straps from Cleveland.as well. Good service and fair price. New ones were powder coated with good quality "T" bolts, washers, and stop nuts.

Try Cleveland Tank, they made me my stainless straps to custom length with the insulators for half the price of a powder coated steel ones from Mack. They sell the insulators seperate....heres the link http://www.cleveland...ccessories.html

Pretty good people to deal with Barry from Watts actually told me about them.

Well 220 I checked out their website and sent them a question, got a prompt answer and ordered the insulators this afternoon- fair price too.

Thx again

Try Cleveland Tank, they made me my stainless straps to custom length with the insulators for half the price of a powder coated steel ones from Mack. They sell the insulators seperate....heres the link http://www.cleveland...ccessories.html

Pretty good people to deal with Barry from Watts actually told me about them.

thx "220"

Guys,

Does anyone know if the rubber channel that goes around the square steel step fuel tank straps is still available? In addition to B models I believe the tanks were also offered on R and U models. If no longer available, any other options?

Guys, I ordered a pair of Gover horns- 1027/1024. One horn is longer than the other- which I assume is a tone thing- I'm not crazy about that and the guy at the parts counter said- "well see what size you like and will swap out so they re both the same size.

Anyone have any thoughts- Also- horse is out of the barn but what is fair price for a set of Grovers (6" bell)