Red Horse

Not sure the type of cans you have, but likely you might find that a regular 30/30 maxi will bolt up?

Wish I had a good picture of what my truck had on it originally. I was able to fit maxi's without modifications.

F'Train,

I will try to post a picture if I can. Looks like it will not be the easiest thing given diameter of spring packs vs what is on there now.

Bob

Any ideas out there? My 61 B has an RAD 111 35,000 lb rear axle. The brake chambers are those big cans that are about 5" in dia. and about 6" long and they are on the front side of the axle. On the back side, there is a bar that connects the right and left slack adjuster. Existing parkig brake is the manual Orschlen lever connected to the drive shaft- not much for a single axle with a 46,000 lb gvw!

My question is, what would the best way be to convert this to maxi chambers?

Bob

The shutterstat is in the water manfold and it knows all.

I also salvaged the radiator shutters and shell off of a junkyard B-42 -just before the shears got to it. and I have that complete assembly. Is the shutterstat rebuildable to any degree?

Any info would be appreciated.

Bob

ill lube up the fins and the accuator and see if that does it thanks

Guys, How does the shutterstat get its temp info telling the shutterstat to open or close?

thanks a lot thats how my parts truck was as well and how my dad said the b models all were(he used to redo dm's, brockways, and some b models every year for the concrete co he worked for). i just wanted to make sure.

thanks,

220cummins

Guys, speaking of door seals, what is a good replacement product for the seals?

Don't break a sweat on it, in all it just means that the two axles WON'T interchange.

You'll need to use crd118 axles in the new carrier. You're crd62 axles won't fit.

10-4 Freightrain- My problem then will be the guy wont sell the carrier plus the axles blah-blah. I'm afraid I' going to be going down the road at 45 MPH with my 9.05 CRD 62!

Involute splines are tapered sides, kinda like a gear would have. You have to use PINS to measure the size, as the maj/min are basic reference dimensions.

Here is a website I found that you can look thru to see differences. It gets pretty technical, but might give you some idea of what I'm talking about.

http://www.omnigear.us/technical_information.htm

Freighttrain,

Thx for the response. Looks like I'm gonna have to study this!

I have a CRD 62 carrier and I am told that a CRD 118 is a replacement. The only issue is the CRD 118 spec sheet says the axles have "involute" splines. What are involute splines. the CRD 62 I have has straight splines on both ends.

Can anyone help me out.?

Hi,

I would like to recommend that you look on the top of the diff and slightly to the left of center looking down, there will be a 1 inch square pad with all the info you will need. The only problem I have seen is that if the diffs have been changed that sometimes a tag would be rivited to the housing there and somtimes the tag gets removed.

If you are using this truck with any load at all with a 673, I would not go over 5.13 to 1, If you could up the horse power you may be able to go faster, but not loaded.

I do have differental carriers and transmissions for sale if interrested

Talk later

Fred

So Fred, would you have a CRD 118 in say a 5.52?

A lot also depends on what size rubber is on the truck.

With 11:00 24's 8.24 was a common ratio used in conjunction with a TRQ7220 quad box, and would give about 52 to 54 MPH in 5th hi at 2100 RPM if I remember correctly.

On 11:00 22's 7.49 was common, with a quad box it would also give 52 - 54 MPH at 2100 RPM.

On 10:00 20's, 7.00 or 6.34 was commonly used with a quad box.

As was mentioned earlier, if the truck previously had a gas engine, then the rear axle ratios will be much lower than what you want for a 673 or 711 diesel.

24" rubber with 8.24 rears and an OD quad box (.74 ) wiill give you

(2100 X 60)/442X.74 X 8.24= 46.75mph

This makes the assumption that 5th hi is .74 If it wasn't an OD and was direct, same combination would give 34.59 mph

I am going through same exercise.. I have what was a B-68X. It has a 9.05 rear and when built was a gas job with a quad box. somewhere in its 47 years, someone dropped a 673 with a duplex in it. I have not had it on the road but was told by the last guy who drove it on the road (he plowed with it) he said it would do 35! bottom line when yu give away 400 RPM's going from gas to diesel you pay the price.

I have an RAD 111 rear axle which has a 35,000 lb. rating and a CRD 62 carrier with a 9.05 ratio. The truck was originally a 540 gas/TR720 (B-68X) and at some point, someone put a 673 and Duplex in it. That gave away 300 RPMS gas to diesel and I believe the crrent Duplex is direct. Anyone have an idea where I might find a CRD 62 with a higher gear? Mack Museum (Don Schumaker) advises that a CRD 118 was a running change for the 62 so that is another option if I can find one with a higher gear. Appreciate any thoughts anyone might have on a potential source.

How about it. Anyone have an experiencing with having a rad shell chromed?

Been lurking a awhile,figured I'd finally sign in.New to here,but no stranger to Macks.

RC-51, Where in Mass? I just registered as well- Bolton B-68X Some helpful guys here!

Hi,

I have seen the tr 67 series trans behind the 673 engines before, the trans that I would use would be a tr 72 series,

I think what hapened when the former owner installed the diesel engine and removed the gas, the gas engine would rev much higher than the diesel, inturn droping the max rpm of the whole drive line.

The solution is to install higher gear ratios in the rear to get some road speed.

I have some differentals that may help you out, I would sell them reasonable price. I live in Indiana, but with our new part transit system we could get them to you...

Fred

Guys, thank you all for the feedback- No doubt the gas engine (3000 RPM) made a big difference vs a 2100 rpm diesel. It does have big rubber (11:00-24) but 9.05 is a killer.

B61Fred, emailme at fd68brnco@aol.com with what yo have for gears. Rear is an RAD 111.

Bob

My B-68X was built with TRQ 720 quadbox and 9.05 rears. At some point, someone put a 673 and a duplex in it. I have not driven it on the road but I tracked it down to the last guy who had it registered and he said it did about 35!

I have the opportunity to get a quad box out of a B-42X but I'm assuming the quadbox in a gas job had a much lower torque rating and is a different animal. I will get the vin out of the B-42 but just curious if anyone had any ideas??

I have to believe that getting a quad will be a lot easier then finding a gear set for a RAD 111 rear.

Bob

Yes they are spot welded to the dash. You can buy new dash hinges from Matt Pfahl if you need them.

Firemack

Bob

I was in a yard yesterday getting some items off a B-42. One thing I needed was the glove box door. I was running out of time and couldn't get the hinges loose, so I took the easy route and grabbed the door. In looking at my truck, the lip of the box opening has been bent- so whoever robbed my original door looks like they ripped it out. Were those hinges spot welded to the dash assembly?

Bob

Hey there, no problem. I don't like to answer questions that I'm unsure of and did not know if you meant to release the glass from the frame, or remove the frame from the door. I've replaced so much glass through the years that it is quite routine and I do not like to appear condescending.

Most any questions concerning sheet metal or paint, I will answer unless I'm unsure of the basis of the question.

Don't hesitate to ask as I enjoy helping others in this hobby.

Best of luck with your project.

Rob

Rob, Actually I meant the frame from the door and I really hadn't looked at it before I posted the question. Someone gave me a better set off of a vehicle that has about 100 hornets living in it! The glass is good - a little "smoked" in a few spots-(both of mine are cracked) and the frames appear serviceable and even have the locks on them. Mine don't have locks and much of the channel is just about rusted out.

Bob

Hi Tom, been wonderin how you been as we haven't heard from you in quite some time. You ever going to get over this way again?

I'm with you on not wanting to sound like a "smart ass". Once the window frame is out of the truck on a bench, I usually take a heat gun and warm the seal, glass, and frame to soften the bond holding the window in the frame. Usually have to use leather gloves to shield the hands from the heat. When the unit is hot to the touch, pinch the steel frame and the glass simutaneously and pull them apart slowly. Sometimes more heat is needed but never hot enough to melt the rubber seal or break the glass. This method works equally well on any encapsulated glass, or rubber stuck due to age. Patience is the key. Another handy tool that I use is an angled gasket scraper with rounded corners. This tool does not dig into any rubber, and I usually heat it with the gun also and massage the rubber away from the glass.

If reusing the original rubber seal(s), be sure to use a glass bedding compound. This is a semi fluid paste that is applied via a pump nozzel, (similar to a pump oiler) and will allow an old perimeter seal to eliminate water infiltration. I also use it on new seals as it never sets up hard and glass can be removed years later with little effort.

Rob

Guys,

Any particular trick to quick removal and reinstallation of the vent window assemblies?

Bob

for the amount of wire in these cabs its not a huge deal to re wire them up. think about it. new guages would have back lit lights on each one or use the old guage where one bulb lights up 2 guages. you have an amp or alt guage/ fuel/water temp/lights/marker lights/ turn signals/ start switch and a few others. to start get a painless wiring fuse panel http://performance.alternatefuelsracing.com/painless.html (12-CIRCUIT UNIVERSAL FUSE BLOCK # 30001) and run the wire your self. I feared if I bought an aftermarket harness that The lenghts would be incorrect and if I had to add soemthing to the truck later there were going to be stray wires anyway.

just my .02

trent

Trent, thx for the tip

Guys,

thanks for your replies. I'm just getting into this and am trying to come up with a game plan- and a budget. Idid have 1300 bucks in mind as harness number but Paul I note you comment on Top o"the Hill. I will check them out. I have buddies who say- "no big deal". It won't be if I can get them to do it!

Guys, I have a 1960 B-68X (converted to 673 with 12 volt) that has been off the road for probably 10 years. the wiring is virtually non existant. It appears that there are various places to order complete harnesses but a buddy of mine says.."why bother- its simple" . this thing was built as a dump and that is what it will be.

Is the time savings offered by going the harness route worth the $$$??

Any thoughts?

Joe and Paul,

thx for your responses. Trust me I won't be bashfull! I've actually only seen the truck once about a month ago and hope to get it hauled in during the week. Then I'll be getting into it - with the help of some knowledgeable buddies- and we will see what we have to work with.

Bob

Hi everyone from Bolton MA. After a lot of hand wringing I wrote the check last week for a 1960 B-68X. The 46,000 lb GVW and the 11:00- 24's made me do it! "68" is a misnomer as somewhere in its life, someone took out the gas motor and the quad box and stuck a 673 and a Duplex in it. Be looking for a lot of dumb questions and thanks in advance for your help.