Red Horse

Guys,

thank you all for your responses. Lizardskin looks pretty good, but as with so many of these things, a little creativity goesa long way. For example, I'm thinking Lizardskin on everything then perhaps plain syrofoam sheet on the cab back panel and even above in the headliner? Or if you are not talking about moving parts (doors) even expanding foam? As log as you don't get the kind that has too high an expansion rate

Guys,

we are stripping my B cab before it goes to the soda blaster. As for the formed inplace insulation on the cab firewall (interior) anyone have any ideas as to what you replace that with? I'm sure no has any of that in inventory.

Appreciate any suggestions.

Guys,

Anyone out there bought any 11 x 24's lately? If so what brand and how much.?

Hi Red Horse,

Just some info from DownUnder.

I got all my rubber (apart from front windshield, which I purchased through Barry) from a place here in Sydney, called Spectrum Rubber.

They have hundreds of different shapes and twists. Also Bailey Channel (for side windows). The twisty rubber parts were for the quarter vents (or wing windows)

If you are in the States, you must have a place similar. Some of your HotRod clubs would be able to help.

The rear screen rubber I got from the windscreen place that cut and installed front and rear glass.

So all the side glass, rubbers and bailey channel I installed myself. Easy.

Good luck. Rod.

Rod, thx for the tip!

Bob,

You might try Mack for the windshield and rear window

rubber with the lock strip.

And I've found Watts to be pretty fair, with great service too.

You didn't happen to make a note of where you found that

wing window rubber did you?

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Paul,

Matt Pafhl, from Conn. was at the Macungie show in June and was selling off some inventory. Check out his webb site for contact info as he might have some more or have a line on reasonable replacement prices. Good thought on checking Mack dealers- its easy to get into the mindset of automatically thinking they WON't have inventory.

Bob

B Mack windshield and door glass is pretty easy to get cut.

Any good auto/truck glass supplier should be able to provide it.

It's flat glass, and the windshield sides are interchangeable, so a

good template will work for both sides. The door glass pieces are also

interchangeable from side to side, so same story.

If making templates doesn't work for you, Watt's Mack has replacement

glass, I believe.

The cost isn't bad at all compared to a curved windshield piece.

You will probably also need new rubber for the windshields, and

most lokely you'll need new rubber and felts for the side windows.

Hopefully you can save the wing window rubbers. They must be made

of gold, judging by the cost for replacement.

Good Luck,

Paul Van Scott

Paul, Thx for response. Actually I should have mentioned the rubber gaskets. I did pick up the wing window rubber at a recent show at a very fair price. the only place I have seen windshield and rear window rubber is Watts, so if anyone has another source I would like to hear about it.. Although I would imagine that some of the door track material can be off the shelf bulk material that can be cut to length???

Bob

Guys,

Anyone have any recent experience with getting new cab glass cut? Only good piece of glass I have is the back window. So I'm talking windshields, vent windows and door glass.

Appreciate any cost info anyone might have.

One thing I forgot to ask: This truck had a 534 V8 Ford engine with a small nine speed Fuller behind it. There are no tags as it rotted off. Any idea as to what series it may be? The trans is good, but much too small to put behind any real strong torque.

Thanks,

Rob

If it had a 534 it was a 900, not an 800. I know you said the sheet metal was gone, but for what its worth, if it had a short cab-90 BBC- it would be an LN-900. If it had a long cab-106" BBC, it would be an L 900

Ok guys- For the front springs $950 pr. (these are 14 leaf)

rears $1210 pr

rear Helpers 495 pr

Helper brkts 179

total $2834

Keep in mind this is a 35,000 LB rear with torque rods each side and a center torque rd going to the cross member.

But like the Fram guy said.."pay me now or pay me later".

wow,I hope I never break a spring,I didn't know they were that expensive. Each spring leaf on the mixer looks about 3/4" of an inch thick though-rides like it has no springs!

Bad part is if I were to break one,they'd probably be even more expensive...harder to find...harder to remove used ones if you can find them-wow,hope I don't break a spring!

O'Dog, If you get lucky, you can find some nice ones. the B-61S I bought for the Cab (and as it turns out, engine and quadbox) Has a great looking set of springs- no rust between leaves. Of course when I go to sell it everyone says.."44 rears, dime a dozen!'

Freighttrain- A timely post! I'm debating if I should replace the springs on my 60 B-68X. this thing has a 35,000 lb. Rad 111 rear and I'm going to put a 10' dump on it and use it. Springs for this puppy with helpers will cost me $1550 for the rear and about 700 for the fronts. Your pictures convinced me. In particular as I intend to put a load on it every now and then.

Guys, Thanks for your input. The motor is sitting in a box trailer and I will check it out Monday and confirm the stud sizes.

Bob

PS You might have seen this B-61s in the classified section of WOT a couple of issues ago. It was the red one in FLA. I was told it was an early 60's but was actually built in Sept. of 65. Hopefully that is good news. Was delivered by Birmingham Mack to a Lawrence Lucas. The original order for the truck was through Prentiss Mack, Lafayette Ind. and the customer was Davis Trucking but somewhere along the line, the order was assigned to Birmingham Mack and their customer.

Didn't think my first post went through??

Guys, Thanks for your input. The motor is sitting in a box trailer and I will check it out Monday and confirm the stud sizes.

Bob

PS You might have seen this B-61s in the classified section of WOT a couple of issues ago. It was the red one in FLA. I was told it was an early 60's but was actually built in Sept. of 65. Hopefully that is good news. Was delivered by Birmingham Mack to a Lawrence Lucas. The original order for the truck was through Prentiss Mack, Lafayette Ind. and the customer was Davis Trucking but somewhere along the line, the order was assigned to Birmingham Mack and their customer.

Guys- thx for all of your input. We pulled the engine and its sitting in a box trailer that I won't get to untill Monday when I can check out the head bolts. I'll Keep you posted. The truck was built in September 1965 so hopefully it has the new style head gasket .

By the way, it was sold through Birmingham Ala. branch and original owner was Lawrence Lucas. One of the orders also indicates "Davis Trucking" as the customer and Prentiss Truck Sales, Lafayette Ind. as the dealer but that ticket was written in August and then the unit was assigned to Birmingham Mack in September. History is half the fun of these things. My B-68X was ordered in May 1960 by Albert Welch Inc. a good sized Boston Excavating contractor. They are still in business today and a buddy of mine isa field super for them. He mentioned this to one of the owners (grandson) whose comment was.."yeah- we probably still owe on it"!

Bob

Well guys I bought a B-61S for the cab and it looks like the 711 in it is in much better shape then my old 673. No smoke and it sounds great. I have no experience with 711's. I came into the industry in the mid 60's when my company still had 673's and then transitioned to Maxidynes.

What should I be looking for and what should I expect? The engine is a 1965 and I'm putting it and the quadbox that came with it, in my B-68X . I will have a 10' dump on it and I intend to use it every now and then to grab a load of stone for my driveway and/or help out at the fairgrounds. The 673 that repowered this old gasser is like I said, a smoker and it is noisy- plus its a Duplex so I think 'm ahead with this swap.

I brought my used ones to my mack dealer and they sold me ones that were for a R model cab but were of the same size as my B model.

Thx guys

Guys, We have pulled the cab in prep for cleaning up the chassis. All of the rubber bushings are showing their 48 years of age. Any suggestions as to where you get these things? Same with trans (quadbox) isolators.?????

you can fill the holes , i have filled hole if it is a single frame. You get you a blck of brass and use on the other side of the frame as a back stop and use a mig and fill holes and grind and then take a rose bud and heat to a pale red and let cool.

Theak

They are both double frames

Well guys, I'm looking for a few opinions. I have a single axle B with 35,000 lb single rear axle. (RAD 111). I bought a tandem B-61 for the cab, but after looking at it, the engine is better then in my single axle plus its a quad box. In addition, even though its a tandem, except of course for the cross members, the frame rails are the same and the cab-axle dimensions are the same.

I'm thinking, instead of pulling the engine/trans and the cab from the tandem, I perhaps should pull the big axles/wheels off the single axle and put them under the tandem. Biggest concern is redrilling the frame. As it was a tandem, it has plenty of holes associated with the center cross members. Plus the 35,000 lb rear from the single has torque rod hangars that would also have to be drilled out.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Guys, Well I did get my parts back. And I think the stuff looks good. One of the side dogs lost a bit of material on the edge and the "Mack" side scripts have a few pits. But the "Mack" that goes above the radiator shell and the dog bas and "the Dog" Look great. I will post some pictures when I get a minute- actually I took a before photo so I will stage the after the same way.

Not sure Rod what the procedure was but all in all I'm satisfied. I alkso priced out the same items on Watts Mack and I saved about 225 plus shipping. I have no clue as to the quailty of the items Watts has as I assume its all reproduction but in addition to saving a few bucks I do know what roads my dog went down 40 plus years ago!

Red Horse,

Please do keep us posted, and maybe tell us about the process and the results with your chrome shop.

Would you mind asking if he wants more work? And where is the shop located?

I have essentially the same parts ready now for a chrome shop.

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Paul,

The guy is actually a broker of sorts. He runs a speed shop and provides rechroming as one of his sidelines. the guy he uses is in rhode Island. This guy was referred to me by a guy who has an established powder coating business- not someone who would pass out endorsements casually. I haven't given him the green light but I probably will. Am I paying a bit of a "handling" charge? Probably. but I did say to the guy.."well why don't I just find a plater and cut you out as the middleman?" His answer was that he had purchasing power and a longstanding relationship with this guy. I kind of think the plater would rather not deal with a lot of people coming into his business with small orders. My guy on the other hand collects orders and brings them down to the guy so the plater deals with one guy vs the individual accounts. I know as a matter of fact with my parts he also was bringing down to the guy a set of front leaf springs for a "bucket T", as well as some assorted bumpers and grill parts.

I will keep you posted.

Guys, Thank you all for your responses. I tracked down a shop in my area and am going to bring all my stuff down to him next week. He says his minimum is $125. I gather that refers to what can fit in the basket or tank or whatever. I will keep you posted as I would think this is a commeon issue today.

Guys, Well I have a hard number. $775 bucks will get me 8 pieces as follows:

Nosing that "Dog is attached to.

"Mack" header that is under the nosing on the rad shell

Bull dog

Right and left side hood dogs

one "Thermodyne"

one "diesel"

one "B-61"

Any opinions?

PS- I also sent him my rad shell just for kicks- a grand! I think it will look nice in Black with redshutters and chrome hood latches!

The one that does not have a oil cooler may be a 170 HP and no more and it does no have a full flow oil filter but a partial flow bypass meaning that the oil to the brgs. is not filtered before going to the brgs. and may not have a thermostst. The engine that has the 2 intake manifolds or P intake as they were called long time ago has a full flow oil filter and by pass combination. It will have a thermostat and more fuel set out on the rack and timing will be some different as well as a oil cooler and was a 187 HP so they will interchange but are a little different. The engine that does not have a oil

cooler will have a big removeable cover on the bottom of the oil pan were you can take off and clean the trash out of the oil pump pick up screen and alot of people did not do that. glenn

Theakers- thx for the input.

Guys, Ca anyone shed some light on non- turbo 673 variations. I have a B 68X that someone at some point in time yanked the gas engine and put a 673 in its place. This engine is as basic as you can get. The street side of the block is clean with nothing but the intake manifold on it and two oil hoses that go to/from a Luberfiner.

I also have a B-61S that is a 1963 and has a 673 thst is totally different. Instead of a single piece intake manifold, it has a split manifold plus what I believe is an oil cooler.

Anyone have a clue as to the HP differences in these two motors?

Guys, Thank you all for your responses. I tracked down a shop in my area and am going to bring all my stuff down to him next week. He says his minimum is $125. I gather that refers to what can fit in the basket or tank or whatever. I will keep you posted as I would think this is a commeon issue today.