boyd

Do you have a part number i have a used one that has already been magnafluxed and came back fine. i just want to confirm the correct part number.

injector cups.

sorry just seen this. what i would do first is remove the tachometer sensor clean it and put back in. what it sounds like is happening is the tach sensor/tach issue may be putting the ECM in Derate mode, it is doing it because it senses the tach not working correct.

i dont know how to post pics on here, but if you send me your email address i can email them.

The Transmission is a T-310, I had purchased the truck from local Mack Dealer and it had a Reman Mack Transmission installed at that time.. so it has about 125,000 miles on it. and i do not need a core... If anyone needs particulars on any parts on it get with me. My pricing will be cheaper than you can get anywhere.. i need it out of my way.. Thank you

if i am thinking rite, on the right side of the motor in front of the fuel pump you will see a square looking little box with a rounded front on it about the size of a D battery. it should have a short wiring pigtail on it. This should be pump solenoid. although i hadnt had very many fail.. but did replace a couple back in the day when we had 100+ of the same model.. if i am remembering rite it senses oil pressure and then tells ECM it is ok to start... if you pull the plug and check to confirm you have juice feeding back to your ECM after cranking on it and you have oil pressure.. after you check that let me know and we will see what you can check next.

if you put lug tires on it is seemed to get worse more than likely one of your tandems is running out of whack. and what you hear or feel is the friction between rubber and road. If one tandem is trying to go one direction and the other is going straight you will get this.. can you feel it in your seat or in your hands more??

i may have a used one. i will have to check, ....

Let me now what parts you are looking for in particular and i will get pictures and price for you.. thank you

take you a 5 gallon jug and sit it on top of motor run the suction line off of the lift pump to the jug full of fuel that is higher than the pump. if it is a suction problem example debris or a loose or bad line this will let you know that. If it still does the same thing it is after the lift pump.. The Lift pumps that Mack used on these models where nothing short of junk. they are a fiber gear with a brass bushing inserted into it is not splined or anything and they have been known to spin inside the fiber gear, and when you have one that spins it is hard to tell. you have to hold the stainless shaft with needle nose pliers and spin the fiber gear. i have had them spin some days and some days it would be fine..

Also these injector harnesses are notorious for engine oil seeping down inside the harness itself and causing the wires to rub raw within the loom and causing shorting issues,, it will normally happen 6-8 inches from where it comes out of the rear of the engine..

Do any lights come on before it dies? if not it can be something battery related or even a ground. Does the Tach or speedo reset when it does it? I had several issues with the steering column wire harness, if the driver tilts wheel alot it will allow the harness plug to work loose, and it will be the one that plugs into the key switch.

T-310

Complete 2007 Mack with MP Engine Low Miles, all Drive Train and Engine in Perfect working order. unit was wrecked...

Put a manual oil temperature gauge on it to confirm it is getting that hot, normally if you see a rise in oil temp you will also see a rise in coolant temperature...

Aneroid valve/Puff limiter can be plugged off, it will be a plastic 1/4 line going from fuel pump to your air intake manifold. By doing this will allow the plunger in the pump to be Actuated all time... This will cause engine to smoke more than normal though... While doing MPG tests in the mid to late 80s it would hurt your fuel mileage 2 or 3 tenths... Again a lot depends on driver....

You would be better of changing your gear train rather than to mess with the fuel or turbo setup. As far as making it smoke, that ain't gonna happen.. The last real smokers we had was in a 4 valve Mack engine in 1989 and you could do a lot of tweaking with those. But all that has changed.. With all engine manufacturers...

Mack originally came out with a plastic tang that acted as the adapto between the cable itself and the drive gear. Then before electronics they started manufacturing that in cast metal so that it would last longer, and so that it would trash the cable also when failing...

On the eup the rollers have been known to kick sideways making the roller run sideways on the cam lobe. Even after running sideways it could pop back straight and run the correct direction. Even when the lobe is sideways it is still being pumped by the lobe it is just not as fluent as if rolling on roller. You can run the truck if this happens but you will destroy your cam if you run for a extended period of time. You will notice very little difference in power when this happens, but you will hear it when it moves. There is a small roll pin that holds the roller cup on the end of the eup if it is gone this is why it is kicking sideways.. You can remove and if you have a good spring and the cam and roller look good just replace roll pin...

Mack had good engines back when we had dry liners, now that they have wet liners like most other engine manufactures they cannot keep the counterbores from leaking... Just my opinion.

Injector cups, they have a update on these. It will need conical kits. Which will be stainless steel injector cups. The problem is when you go to the stainless cups you have to replace all injectors also.. And even going with the conical sets, I have had these cups fail also. Hope this helps.

It will have a adaptor in the hole. The there will be a45 degree fitting that will screw into the bearing retainer... It will have a gear that will mesh with a toning ring on your yoke. If you have to replace the actual gear you need to make for certain that you get the same gear ratio that you currently have, if not your speedo will be off...